Simply Organic (5 page)
Authors: Jesse Ziff Coole
Farmers have found they can get top dollar for producing meats and poultry without the use of antibiotics and growth hormones, but not all of them practice respectful animal husbandry methods. Some animals, such as pigs, are so confined that the animal never even touches the ground. In addition, one company’s definition of “respectful” may vary from another’s. So, again, I urge you to ask your butcher questions. Ask how the animals are raised; how much time they spend out of doors, if any; how the grass they eat has been treated; and the type of feed they’ve consumed.
Here are some definitions of key terms:
NATURAL indicates how livestock is raised. Naturally raised meats and poultry come from animals that have been raised from birth without the use of antibiotics, added growth hormones, growth promotants, or animal by-products in any feed rations.
Organic meats and poultry come from animals that have been raised from birth without the use of antibiotics, added growth hormones, growth promotants, or animal by-products in any feed rations. In addition, they must be fed only certified Organic grasses and/or grains. All animals and feeds must be raised on certified Organic farms and ranches.
GRASS-FED is a term used to signify that livestock have been raised from birth strictly on a grass and/or a forage diet. In other words, grass-fed livestock do not consume grains as part of their diet. Since “grass-fed” specifically addresses the animal’s diet, it does not necessarily mean that the meat would qualify for Natural or Organic labels. (Beef labeled Grass-Fed could, for example, come from animals that grazed on fertilized lands, and received antibiotics or growth hormones.) So be sure to look for Grass-Fed Natural, or Grass-Fed Organic for the cleanest products.
“Free-range” is a term that applies to chickens, and in theory it is good for them. However, the designation Free-Range means only that a bird has spent a minimum of two and a half hours a day out of its pen. It does not guarantee that the bird was organically or naturally raised or that it was treated humanely. Again, ask questions.
PASTURE-RAISED refers to animals raised on open land, with space to graze and natural grasses to feed on. These animals may spend time in corrals or enclosures, but they live most of their lives in natural environments.
Currently, there is no certification for organic fish. To certify seafood or fish as Organic would mean imposing controls that would put the fish in some sort of confinement. To do that and ensure that the method used was sustainable for the environment and healthy for humans would be challenging. I recommend that you use sustainably harvested fish and seafood whenever possible. I say this with a note of caution. Learn about the environment where the fish or seafood comes from. Make sure it comes from clean, healthy waters, such as those in Alaska or Iceland. Eating fish as soon as possible after it is caught or harvested is best. Sometimes, that means using fish that has been frozen immediately after being caught.
With the dwindling number of wild fish in our waters and shifts in sea temperatures, however, you may be selecting fish raised in fish farms. Ask questions. Using farm-raised fish is a healthy option only if you are satisfied with how the fish are raised and handled after harvesting. The Monterey Bay Aquarium has a Seafood Watch program, which provides information about edible fish. They promote sustainable fishing and farming methods and have created a useful seafood guide that lists the best and worst options for consumers in every region of the country. Visit their Web site often for the most up-to-date information (
www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.asp
).
Wild game is, of course, caught in the wild. These animals live and feed naturally off the environment. This doesn’t necessarily mean that their meat is organic, but the animals will not have received antibiotics or growth hormones. Depending on where they grazed, they may be as clean as organic animals, so wild game is a good choice.
I love raising chickens. They create great compost and eat leftover scraps, and there is nothing that compares to a freshly gathered egg. A few years ago, the coop, which was built around an old tree, went down in a storm. We are building a movable coop, so the chickens can graze on open space (urban chickens can’t run wild!). If I am lucky, someone will convince me that I have to buy a little tractor to move it from place to place.
In your quest for organic eggs, remember that the egg comes from the chicken, so organic eggs are simply eggs from organically raised chickens. The color of eggs is determined by the variety of the chicken, nothing more. So, again, select eggs that have earned Organic certification.
Organic milk is readily available. If your market does not carry it, request that it do so. The cows, goats, and sheep that produce organic milk should graze on organic grasses and never receive growth hormones or antibiotics. Again, as farmers jump on the organic bandwagon, we need to ask many questions to be sure their cows are being raised with respectful methods. When you’ve found a producer you are comfortable with, look for their other organic dairy products, such as butter, sour cream, yogurt, and cheese.
Make shopping for organic foods a new and fun experience. Remember to take your time and try various products, until you find the perfect ones for your table. And no matter where you live, take into consideration that you probably won’t have year-round access to every organic ingredient you want. Pace yourself and enjoy the process. Over time, your pantry will be a healthy, organic one.
Without question, the surest way to determine if food is organic is to look for a symbol of certification from the USDA’s National Organic Standards Board. On processed foods, these symbols are displayed on the label or package, often on the front, so that you will know immediately that it is certified Organic.
But let the buyer beware! Just as the word “lite” is used as a marketing tool (it doesn’t necessarily mean that a food contains less fat), a label with just the word “organic” does not guarantee that the food is indeed organically grown. Many of us already read labels for calories and fat content. Apply those same scrutinizing skills in your search for authentic organic products. Look for an Organic seal on the package, and as you scan the ingredients list, look to see what percentage are organic. Remember that “organic” is not a pesticide-free guarantee. After more than fifty years of heavy pesticide use, almost all of our food has some level of pesticide residue. (It’s really a matter of how closely we look.) In order to ensure that we eventually reduce the amount of pesticides and toxins in the environment, buy organic today.
As for claims such as “no drugs or growth hormones used,” “free-range,” and “sustainably harvested,” which you may see advertised on a container or package, we all hope that these are honest claims. At the moment, however, there are no specific legal restrictions for using these terms, other than truth-in-labeling or -advertising laws.
THE TOP FOODS TO EAT ORGANICALLY
Some conventionally grown foods are treated with more pesticides than others. Some retain more of the pesticides. Here’s a list of the top twelve foods containing the most pesticides, according to the Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit research group based in Washington, D.C. They call these the “Dirty Dozen.”
You can sidestep harm and still eat vitamin-rich foods. If you cannot find these foods raised organically, here are some great alternatives that contain similar vitamins and minerals.
By the time winter nears its end, I am ready, waiting, and hungry for the treasures of spring to shoot up from the moist, cool soil. The spring rains, interrupted only by glimpses of sunshine, yield tender yet full-flavored greens, tiny sweet lettuces, pea shoots, asparagus, artichokes, and wild mushrooms. Sugar snap peas and spring onions follow, inspiring the creation of lighter dishes from my organic kitchen. I Asparagus remains the star, and for good reason. There are few vegetables that rival its popularity and versatility at this time of the year. Whether they’re steamed and eaten chilled with a garlicky dip, tossed in salads, puréed into soups, grilled on the barbecue, or wrapped in salty meats, many of us just can’t seem to get enough of these tender spears. I Next on my prized list for early spring is the artichoke. I remember the days when it was next to impossible to find organic artichokes. To satisfy our cravings, my son Jonah and I would treat ourselves to nonorganic artichokes. We regarded them as our “must-have junk food.” These days, more artichokes are grown organically, so we eat them often. Early spring is a time that beckons me back to the farmers’ market after a long, dormant winter. Whether or not there is a farmers’ market open near you, this is a good time of the year to become reacquainted with local farmers, fishermen, ranchers, cheese makers, and bread bakers—the people who grow and produce your food.
35 Chicken with Greens and Spring Onions
36 Quail with Preserved Lemons
37 Lamb Chops with Strawberry–Rhubarb Sauce
38 Filet Mignon with Smashed Potatoes and Leek Sauce
41 Steamed Bok Choy and Water Chestnuts
43 Baby Artichoke, Parsley, and Celery Salad
45 Spring Greens, Onions, and Chives with Herb Butter–Radish Toasts
48 Dried Cranberry–Ricotta Dessert Pudding
50 Strawberry-Chocolate Cobbler
AND
POTATO CAKES
MAKES
4
SERVINGS
This is a great way to use up leftover mashed potatoes. If your leftovers are made with butter or milk, omit the cheese and add a little more flour to bind them. Always test a small cake first for consistency. Peas and potatoes are as good as it gets, but instead of peas, you can use bits of any delicate summer or winter vegetable, or a more robust one that has been cooked until very tender.
¾ pound fresh peas, shelled (about ¾ cup)
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups cooked mashed potatoes
1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese (about 4 ounces)
3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 cups mesclun or spring salad mix
1 large carrot, shaved into curls with a peeler
In a small saucepan, bring 1 inch of water to a boil over high heat. Add the peas and blanch for 2 minutes. Drain, put in a medium bowl, and cool slightly.
Wipe the saucepan clean and heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 4 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Place in a large bowl and cool slightly.
Add the peas, potatoes, cheese, flour, salt, and pepper to the bowl. Stir until well-blended. Shape into 8 round cakes.
Heat 1½ tablespoons of the remaining olive oil in the same skillet over medium heat. Add 4 cakes and cook for 8 minutes, turning once, or until browned and heated through. Transfer the cakes to a plate and keep warm. Repeat with the remaining 4 cakes.
Divide the mesclun and carrot curls evenly among 4 plates and top with the cakes.
VARIATIONS
