Simply Organic (4 page)

Scattered throughout the book are special features titled “Pioneer Profiles.” Here I talk about eight leading companies in the field of organic and sustainable food production. The profiles showcase people who began this journey with goals and passions like my own and have been at the forefront of the organic movement. They are my friends and colleagues, but there are many more who have not been mentioned. These eight companies represent but a handful of the dedicated people who toil daily for this great cause.

I did not include any produce farms or companies, as there are too many to mention, but I probably value them the most, and have the utmost respect and support for the fruits and vegetables they put in the hands of us cooks. In my opinion, produce is the most important ingredient in an organic and sustainable kitchen. It is the place to start planning a meal or menu for family or friends. Everyone, from small local backyard growers to big companies who make organic fruits and vegetables available to those with short growing seasons, should be acknowledged. Their tireless efforts, deep dedication, and willingness to persevere in the face of weather and market fluctuations are remarkable. It is my hope and dream that, someday in the near future, farmers, cooks, and teachers will be held in high regard and given the credit that they deserve for preserving community and good health.

I can’t possibly share everything there is to know about organics in this book. Although organic cuisine is just real food, the industrialization of organics has brought on a wonderful new frontier. I urge you to continue to learn more about how our food can be grown so it is as healthy as possible for us and the planet. Consult the Organic Resources section (
page 238
) for more information.

Now that you’ve made the decision to convert your kitchen to an organic one, recognize that this can’t be done overnight. Pace yourself and celebrate every step along the way. This is a time of tiny triumphs. Little by little, day by day, week by week, add more organic ingredients to your kitchen. Forget the past and don’t fret about what you haven’t done or can’t do. Embrace this transformation as a rebirth, a fresh start in creating a healthier you. Then take a step back and acknowledge all the reasons that prompted you to make this life-changing decision: You want to prepare the healthiest and safest foods available for your family and yourself. You want to do your part to protect the environment. You want to show your support for local organic farmers. Along the way, you will evolve into a compassionate consumer as you consciously make the choice to select foods nurtured in healthy soil and grown without pesticides and other harmful agricultural inputs.

Peruse your kitchen shelves for common ingredients that you use on a regular basis. Make a list of these ingredients. Move on to the refrigerator. You may also want to look through your recipe box for family favorites and list the main ingredients. Complete your list, and then get ready to shop.

Many supermarkets now carry an abundance of organic products. There are even some large natural food supermarkets that carry a high percentage of organic products. Don’t worry if neither of these options are available to you. Small local natural food stores do carry many organic products, and there are a growing number of mail-order options available. (Be sure to check the Organic Resources on
page 238
.)

Start by familiarizing yourself with the organic areas of the market. Some large and small supermarkets have a section dedicated to organic products. Others have one separate area in each aisle, and still others simply scatter organic products among conventionally produced items. Take the time to walk through the store and look for all the organic products available. If you have the inclination, ask the store manager to direct you to the organic sections and thank him for providing them. Encourage him to stock more organic products and be sure to buy them. The more organic products you buy, the more the stores will carry.

With your list in hand, start filling your cart with the many organic products available. Remember, this can be a slow process. You may want to pick up just a few new items each week. When it comes to prepared foods, you will be able to easily stock your cupboards with organic broths, soups, grain mixes, canned beans, nut butters, tomato products, salad dressings, cookies, dips, and chips, to name just a few.

Depending on your store’s selection, locating fresh produce may be a bit more challenging. In addition to supermarkets and natural food stores, don’t forget about the farmers in your area. Your best bet is to start at your local roadside farm stand or farmers’ market. Sometimes, especially when you’re buying from small local farms, the products may not always be certified Organic, even if the farmers’ growing practices are. It takes growers a minimum of three years to earn this distinction, and they must pass stringent requirements. During the process of becoming certified, these farms are classified as Transitional, which means that they are participating in the clean farming methods of certified Organic farms. I buy as many certified Organic products as I can, but I also buy from transitional producers. After all, we have to start somewhere!

Some small farms may not have the time to do all the paperwork to become certified, but they may still be practicing organic methods, so be sure to ask. Other small farms may follow strict organic practices, but have issues with federal control of organic farming or the costs associated with the National Organic Program. Talk to them about their growing methods, buy their products if they are practicing organic and/or sustainable methods, and encourage them to become certified, if appropriate. When possible, visiting the farm or place of production is a good way of seeing firsthand how a product is developed. In any case, most farmers are honest and will accurately represent their farming practices when asked.

Many communities now have farms or groups of farms called Community-Supported Agriculture, or CSA farms (see
page 18
). These are an ideal way to buy seasonal organic produce. CSA farms fill boxes or bags with whatever is growing locally and seasonally. You often don’t know what will be in the box from week to week. Half of the fun is anticipating what will be in your next delivery. You might get items that you wouldn’t even consider buying. Celebrate this opportunity to experience new and truly seasonal foods. The farms often provide recipes for each fruit or vegetable; if not, I hope that you will be inspired by some of mine in this cookbook. Or, search the Internet for the fresh item and find a recipe that sounds appealing to you and your family.

Purchasing organic meats, poultry, fish, and dairy products can be a bit more confusing than buying produce. Here’s some basic information to help you.

As a cook with a conscience, I keep evolving. I like meat, but I want to know how the animals have been treated before cooking with them. In addition to the usual beef, lamb, and pork, I love when a hunter friend offers me cuts of elk or venison, or wild birds. The flavors are richer and more genuine. I have recently discovered bison (buffalo) and highly recommend it as a substitute for most beef recipes. In general, buffalo is free-roaming, grass-fed, and has not been treated with growth hormones or antibiotics. Because it is so lean, you can cut the cooking time by almost half. Buffalo steaks or burgers cooked rare or medium-rare are absolutely delicious.

In the days before most meat was portioned into plastic trays at supermarkets, people honored the sacrifice of an animal by gratefully eating it all. When I was growing up, my uncle owned a slaughterhouse, and we learned to eat all parts of the animal. Some of my favorite memories are of homemade pickled tongue and sweetbreads grilled on the barbecue. In my restaurants and in my home, I work creatively to cook as many cuts of an animal as I can. Ranchers and farmers struggle when the trend is to eat only one part of an animal, such as the breast of a chicken, or the loin of lamb or beef. There is now renewed interest in eating the whole animal, and hopefully we will all move beyond buying only fillets and chops. I have often pointed out, during speaking engagements, that part of getting ourselves to appreciate real food again is realizing that chickens have not only white meat, but also legs, thighs, and wings.

When possible, buy meat from local farmers. But first, find out how the animals are grazed, fed, and treated, because these factors affect the quality of the meat you eat. If you have a large freezer, contract with a local farmer and buy the whole animal.

Fortunately, Organic certification standards exist for meat and poultry products. For farmers and ranchers to earn certification, their animals must graze on organic fields and eat all-organic diets. The animals must be raised from birth without the use of growth hormones or antibiotics. When shopping in a market, look for products with the Organic certification seal. If these aren’t available, your next best choice is to find meat that comes from animals that are ethically raised and free of growth hormones and antibiotics. This information should be prominently displayed on the package. Speak to the butcher in your market and ask how the meat is raised, fed, aged, and butchered.