Simply Organic (3 page)

There are many modern-day heroes carrying forth these beliefs. They range from the founders of organic food companies to the small local farmers doing their bit, one acre at a time. Behind the scenes are researchers studying the health advantages of organic foods and many nonprofit organizations supporting the environment and sustainable politics. I salute all those working for this great cause.

HEALTH REASONS TO CHOOSE ORGANIC

Remember all those times your mom said, “Drink your milk!” and “Eat your fruits and vegetables. They’re good for you!”? Many of us growing up in the ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s scoffed at those messages. Hamburgers, french fries, and chocolate malts tasted so much better.

But Mom was right. Nutritionists and doctors, backed by scientific evidence, continue telling us that fresh fruits and vegetables are loaded with essential vitamins and minerals, which we need to keep our bodies healthy. Doesn’t it make sense that the foods we eat and the nutrients they contain would affect the functioning of our bodies? We now know that blueberries, for instance, contain antioxidants, known to fight off cancer-causing free radical molecules. Broccoli and milk are loaded with calcium, which we need to maintain strong bones. And this is just the beginning.

Rather than just hearing that real food is good for us, we are learning how and why it is life-supportive. I remember when I was invited to speak about organic cooking to physicians and medical students at Stanford University School of Medicine a few years back. After serving them a luscious and beautiful lunch made with all organic ingredients, I asked them how they felt. Many responded with one word:
“Great!” I then asked them to think of their bodies as they might their cars. “Many of you will someday drive an expensive car,” I said, “and I doubt if you would even consider putting cheap fuel into the tanks of your cars. Think, then, of food as our fuel. Eat the best foods, and your body will run smoothly.”

Throughout the 1990s, the healthy-eating campaign nudged us a little toward eating better, but what really brought it to the forefront was the issue of food safety. Remember the milk scare in the 1990s? Is it any wonder that many people, even those who are not committed to the organic food movement, still avoid cow’s milk? The public responded to the fact that some commercial farmers were injecting their cows with a genetically engineered hormone called recombinant bovine growth hormone (rBGH). Some researchers saw a possible link between rBGH and certain cancers, such as breast and prostate.

While most conventional dairy farmers continue to use these hormones today, organic farmers never give their cows growth hormones or antibiotics. All their milk, cheese, and other dairy products are free from these substances. The cows are given a wholesome diet of organic grains and feed. Better yet, if you can find raw milk products from a reliable dairy, that’s your very best option because many people seem to find it easier to digest.

Of the many issues that are connected with food safety, the presence of pesticides in the foods we eat is a big concern. Large amounts have been found in what would otherwise be considered wholesome foods. Unfortunately, if you eat out-of-season foods that are not grown organically, and are shipped from all corners of the planet, there is a good chance they are tainted with ripening agents and pesticides.

During winter months, it is not unusual to see New Zealand strawberries, Mexican tomatoes, or Chilean grapes in supermarkets. Researchers at the Rodale Institute in Kutztown, Pennsylvania, determined that a large portion of the fresh food that we eat daily travels an average of 1,400 miles from the farm to our plates. These “food miles” come at a cost to our health. Nonorganic Chilean grapes, for instance, represent 90 percent of all winter grapes consumed by Americans. Yet they rank among the foods contaminated with the most toxic pesticide residues. This scares me. Whether by ship, plane, or truck, the transportation of these products expends fossil fuels known to increase global warming. This is hardly a sustainable act. They are also usually lacking in flavor, as they must be picked early to withstand the long trips. I believe that supporting small local farms is of paramount importance. In general, even when local produce is not Certified Organic, if it has been raised with organic techniques, I actually prefer it to Certified Organic produce that had to travel to get to me.

Eating locally adds another dimension to your meals. To eat locally, you must eat seasonally. In today’s supermarkets, most fruits and vegetables are available year-round. They are not grown locally or even nationally year-round, though. So much of this produce is imported. Eating seasonally is about eating the produce that’s currently grown in your area.

Of course, if you live in a region where the growing season is short, this is not as easy. But you can find ways to preserve the perfectly ripe and flavorful fruits and vegetables of the warmer months for use during the cold seasons. When we begin to eat seasonally, we become more in touch with our environment and the growing process.

We need fruits, vegetables, and dairy to sustain us and keep our immune systems strong enough to fend off invading viruses and bacteria. So what should we do? In winter, depending upon where you live, opt for plenty of local fresh or organic frozen, canned, and dried fruits and vegetables, especially hearty ones like winter squash and root vegetables. Do not avoid dairy products, meats, or fish. The solution is to be more selective. When given a choice, opt for Certified Organic produce at supermarkets, natural food stores, food cooperatives, farmers’ markets, or local farm stands. Buy from and regularly support farmers who you know practice organic cultivation, even if they are not certified. During the winter, eat organic frozen or canned items, especially those from the United States.

There will be times when organic foods are not readily available. When you need to buy
conventionally grown fruits and vegetables, make it a habit to thoroughly scrub them under running water to remove traces of chemicals from their skins and crevices. This may make a difference, but if the produce has been grown with soil additives, washing may be a futile attempt to remove anything artificial.

As for dairy products, I choose only organic ones, which are readily available in most supermarkets. To me, it’s a safer choice. Others agree. Since the mid-1990s, when rBGH news made headlines, the sale of organic milk has increased by leaps and bounds.

ENVIRONMENTAL REASONS TO CHOOSE ORGANIC

A lot has changed during my time on this planet. Beautiful unspoiled meadows that I remember from the time I was a little girl are paved over with strip malls. Trout-filled streams and lakes now display “off-limits” signs because of pollution. The crystal blue, seemingly invincible sky that I marveled at as a child succumbs a bit more each year to smog and the diminishing ozone layer. As Joni Mitchell sang, “Don’t it always seem to go, that you don’t know what you’ve got ’til it’s gone? They paved paradise and put up a parking lot.”

It’s easy to blame vehicle exhaust fumes and industrial waste for the tainting of our land, water, and sky. Yes, they’ve made an impact. But you may be surprised to learn that agriculture is the biggest polluter. The Environmental Protection Agency has proven that agriculture has polluted one-fourth of all American rivers and streams. American farmers are spraying five times more pesticides than they did in the 1960s.

Each one of us can contribute to cleaning our air, land, and water by making conscious choices each time we shop, prepare meals, and take out the trash. My heroes remain the organic farmers—environmental pioneers who, with commitment and vision, have chosen the old way, opting for compost and other natural fertilizers to create healthy soils that yield healthy plants. Using integrated pest management, they control pests with beneficial insects, not pesticides. They rotate crops to maintain the soil’s fertility. They provide Certified Organic feed to their cows and chickens.

These farmers are doing their part to protect our communities, our soil, water, and air. They recognize the dramatic impact that a single commodity—food—makes on our environment. They are forming alliances and working together for the betterment of all.

I believe that we must support the preservation of farmland, but I hope that someday organic farmers will grow all the food that we eat. In my restaurant, we try to do our part to protect the environment. All of our disposable and to-go packaging can be composted because it is made from plant life. For example, the forks are made from potatoes, the plates from wheat, and the clear cups that look like plastic are actually made from corn. With all the take-out food eaten these days, it is our responsibility to limit our deposits to the mounting landfills.

THE IMPORTANCE OF FLAVOR

I am a cook, a restaurant owner, and a lover of delicious food. I believe that flavor is another important reason to choose organic products. Usually, they have more flavor than their conventional counterparts. This great taste is the reason why many chefs—even those not active in the organic movement—are purchasing organic products. A survey conducted by the National Restaurant Association found that well over 50 percent of restaurants with per-person dinner checks of $25 or more are now offering organic items on their menus.

I suggest that you see for yourself. Taste-test the organic items available on your market’s shelves, and you, too, will be a believer. The depth of genuine flavor will convince you that organic products are not only better for you and the environment, but also so much more delicious.

WHY PAY MORE—WILLINGLY?

Cost remains a major issue among newcomers to the organic world. Yes, organic products can cost more in terms of dollars and cents. But you
reap the dividends in having a healthier body and knowing that you are promoting sustainable, healthy farms and are not harming the environment. There are still bargains to be found. Locally grown organic foods in season may sometimes cost less than conventionally grown produce shipped over long distances.

Consider these factors, and you will see the true value of buying organic.

1. On organic farms, soil preparation, planting, weed control, and harvesting are often more labor-intensive. Natural pesticides and integrated pest management can be more expensive than pesticides and insecticides. In general, they are far less intrusive to the environment, however.

2. Most organic farmers practice crop rotation, which costs more than planting the same crop season after season in the same location. The advantage of crop rotation is that disease, weed, and insect cycles are interrupted through the rotation process. Nature favors simplicity. The complexity created by rotating crops aids in the control of farm pests.

3. Organic feed for livestock costs more than conventional feed, but you are assured that the livestock are not consuming harmful chemicals that could be passed on to you.

4. Organic crops are frequently harvested at the peak of flavor, so they may have a shorter shelf life.

5. Organic companies often have to spend more money to use recycled paper, plastic, and other materials that decompose in the country’s landfills.

SUSTAINABLE CUISINE

The concept of sustainable cuisine embraces the full cycle of what it means to be conscious of how and where our food comes from: how it’s grown and produced as well as the people involved in the production.

Many who practice sustainable cuisine use locally produced ingredients and organic foods. They support composting as well as responsible fishing, farming, and meat production. Recycling and using environmentally benign chemicals for cleaning and packaging are also goals. By showing concern, chefs and restaurant owners become accountable for their role in our well-being and that of our planet.

MINDFUL EATING

We live in a hectic, fast-paced world with many—sometimes too many—choices. By creating an organic kitchen, you play a small but vital part in supporting the ethics of sustainable cuisine. When it comes to shopping, gardening, cooking, and eating, you can make your choices with deliberate consciousness. At the same time, I believe this should be done with joyfulness. If you spend too much time fretting over foods or worrying about whether you are making the right choices, the sensuality and the beauty of food can be easily forgotten.

Accept the fact that you won’t always have access to organic products. Be kind to yourself when you answer the urge for junk food and indulge in something that might be considered unhealthy. I admit that whenever I go to a baseball game, I eat a hot dog loaded with mustard, onions, and relish. I don’t chastise myself, because I know that human beings are not perfect and these urges are natural. Indulgences are fine if they are occasional and not a part of our daily lives.

Whenever I travel or stay with friends, I try not to push the organic issue. Years ago, I was adamant, until my older son, Josh, pointed out to me that, at times, I was self-righteous and overzealous. Believing in the benefits of using organic, clean foods doesn’t give us the right to impose these beliefs on others. This approach rarely works anyway. It is better to lead through example.

I’ve spent my life trying to eat right and prepare the best possible foods for my family, my friends, and my restaurant patrons. I continue to applaud and support organic farmers who commit to growing the healthiest and, in my opinion, the best-tasting food in the world.

You, too, have a wonderful opportunity to save the environment and preserve the health of your family. It all starts with a shopping cart.

ABOUT THIS BOOK

Since I am passionate about eating locally and seasonally, I have arranged the recipes by season, from Early Spring to Deep Winter. I like
to think of the year as a cycle of eight seasons, instead of four, because the beginning of each one is so different from the end. Whatever the season is, no matter where you live, you will find great recipes based on the freshest produce available at that time of the year.