Simply Organic (7 page)

Prepare a hot charcoal fire, preheat a gas grill on high, or preheat the broiler. Remove the quail from the marinade and pat dry. Grill or broil on an oiled rack, 5 to 6 inches from the heat source, for 6 to 8 minutes, turning once, until the juices run clear when a thigh is pierced. Or you can cook the quail in a hot grill pan.

Place 1 quail on each plate and spoon the preserved lemon mixture and olives generously over the quail.

KITCHEN TIP

Preserved lemons are easy to make. Simply cut several whole lemons into wedges, cover with as much sea salt as you can, and literally cram the wedges into a jar. You can’t use too much salt. The lemon wedges are ready to use when they are very soft. It takes about 2 weeks.

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

These lamb chops are wonderful with steamed rice tossed with slivered almonds and chopped chives.

4 rib or loin lamb chops (about 2½ ounces each)

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons olive oil

½ small red onion, thinly sliced

4 ounces rhubarb, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons ruby port or balsamic vinegar

¾ cup sliced strawberries

¼ cup sugar

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Preheat the broiler.

Put the chops on a broiler pan and rub with the garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the rhubarb and cook for 6 minutes, or until the rhubarb is soft. Add the port or vinegar and cook for 2 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed by the rhubarb. Add the strawberries, sugar, and nutmeg. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the sauce is well blended.

Meanwhile, broil the chops, turning once, for a total of 5 minutes, or until browned and a thermometer inserted in the center registers 145°F for medium-rare.

Serve the chops with the sauce.

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

This steak is very easy to prepare and a great dish for an impressive meal for a dinner party.

4 filet mignon steaks (about 5 ounces each)

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper

1 pound new potatoes

¼ to ½ cup buttermilk (see Organic Tip)

3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 large leeks (white part only), sliced

½ cup hearty red wine, such as Zinfandel or Cabernet

1 tablespoon capers

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

Prepare a hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill on high, or preheat the broiler. Lightly oil the grill rack or broiler pan.

Rub the steaks with the salt, then press the pepper into both sides. Set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook for 15 minutes, or until tender. Drain and put in a large bowl. Mash the potatoes with a potato masher or fork, adding enough buttermilk so they are moist. Add the chives, cover, and keep warm.

While the potatoes are cooking, heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook for 6 minutes, or until very soft. Add the wine, capers, and tarragon. Simmer for 3 minutes, or until well blended and heated through. Keep warm.

Grill or broil the steaks, turning once, for a total of 6 minutes, or until a thermometer inserted in the center registers 145°F for medium-rare.

To serve, divide the potatoes and steaks evenly among 4 plates. Top with the sauce and sprinkle with the parsley.

KITCHEN TIPS

You can buy coarsely ground pepper, but when the peppercorns are freshly ground, the flavor is superior. I like to use a combination of red, green, and black peppercorns. Look for this mix, often sold as “peppercorn mélange,” in most supermarkets.

Smashed potatoes are much coarser than creamy mashed ones and always include the skin as well as the potato flesh. They’re not only delicious, but nutritious as well.

ORGANIC TIP

Organic buttermilk isn’t as easy to find as regular organic milk. If your grocer doesn’t carry it, you can substitute sour milk. To make sour milk, add 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 cup milk and let sit for 10 minutes.

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

For me, spring has really begun when I go to the market and find sugar snap peas. In a basket nearby, there are often new potatoes and fragrant spring onions. Bringing them together in a dish as simple as this seems only natural.

12 ounces new potatoes, halved

8 ounces sugar snap peas, trimmed

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 to 4 small spring onions with greens, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Place a large pot of salted water over high heat and bring to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook for 20 minutes, or until tender. Add the snap peas during the last 2 minutes of the cooking time. Drain the pot and wipe it clean.

Heat the butter in the same pot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook for 5 minutes, or until tender. Add the potatoes, snap peas, nutmeg, and mint. Toss to coat well. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

ORGANIC TIP

Spring onions look like the green onions commonly found in your produce department, and have a similar, yet fresher, flavor. Both are immature shoots before an onion bulbs. Commercially grown green onions are bred for consistency and durability. Spring or garden fresh green onions are sweeter and more true to a fresh, mild onion flavor.

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

At times, I like vegetables cooked until they are very soft, forming a soup of sorts with a savory yet often simple broth. The broth adds dimension and flavor without relying on olive oil or butter. There is often a container of this comforting health food in my refrigerator.

1½ pounds bok choy

2 cups vegetable or chicken broth

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 small onion, thinly sliced

½ orange (unpeeled), cut into wedges

1 can (4 ounces) sliced water chestnuts, drained

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons tamari or soy sauce

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

If the bok choy heads are small, cut into halves or quarters. If it is one large head, chop into bitesize pieces.

In a medium saucepan over high heat, bring the broth, garlic, onion, and orange wedges to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the bok choy and simmer for 5 minutes, or until tender. Add the water chestnuts, cilantro, and tamari or soy sauce. Simmer for 1 minute. Remove and discard the orange wedges.

Season the vegetables with salt and pepper to taste. Serve in bowls.

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

Artichokes and celery are wonderful together. This light and refreshing salad is the perfect accompaniment to pasta dishes. Do not be afraid to cut away and discard the tough, leafy parts of the artichoke. Trying to chew them is far worse.

2½ pounds baby artichokes

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice

1 cup thinly sliced celery

1 medium red onion, or 5 green onions, thinly sliced

1 cup packed whole Italian parsley, stems removed

¼ cup capers

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Dash of Tabasco

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

To clean the artichokes, first pull away and discard the outer leaves until all that remains is the very light, tender inside leaves. Using a sharp knife, cut off and discard the tips of the remaining leaves and all the dark parts.

Pour the lemon juice into a large bowl. Slice the trimmed artichokes thinly and add to the lemon juice, tossing well. Add the celery, onion, parsley, capers, oil, Tabasco, and salt and pepper to taste.

Serve the salad at room temperature or transfer to a skillet and cook over medium heat for 2 minutes to warm slightly.

KITCHEN TIP

Unlike mature artichokes, baby artichokes have no chokes to remove.

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

Simple yet flavorful, this salad improves overnight, so try to make it a day ahead.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

2 tablespoons honey

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 large fennel bulb, shaved very thin

1 small red onion, shaved very thin

3 apricots

In a medium bowl, whisk together the oil, lemon juice, thyme, honey, salt, and pepper. Add the fennel and onion, and marinate at room temperature for at least 1 hour.

Just before serving, pit and thinly slice the apricots, and add them to the fennel and onions. Adjust the seasoning and serve.

VARIATIONS

Use celery in place of the fennel, or try a combination of both. If fresh apricots are not yet in season, use about 2 ounces dried apricots, thinly sliced. Add them to the dressing when you add the fennel and onions.

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

For me, this dish is the essence of springtime. The salad would make a wonderful bed, nestled beneath roast chicken or grilled sausages. The rich toasts, eaten out of hand, complete the peasant-style meal.

1½ pounds mixed salad greens: sweet, bitter, and spicy

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon tamari or soy sauce

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 green onions, thinly sliced

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon