India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (347 page)

Meditation in the Mountains

Frazzled young executives from the plains looking to destress and recharge their batteries head for Dharamsala to attend meditation programs at
Osho Nisarga
(Shilla, PO Pantehar, Dharamsala 176 057;
01892/27-5592,
-5730, 94-1803-7370, or 94-1803-7373), a retreat offering a spiritual vacation aligned with the philosophies of the 20th-century guru Bagwan Rajneesh (aka Osho; ). The center is part ashram, part getaway, where you’re encouraged to get in touch with yourself through a program of meditation (including dance meditation), group therapy, and discussion—on top of that, you’re fed healthy vegetarian meals made with organic ingredients. The retreat is superbly designed and works especially well in the context of the beautiful forested surroundings; spread over 2.5 hectares (6 acres), it’s bordered by orchards, dense pine forest, and mountain streams. Best of all, you needn’t forgo any of the comforts you traditionally expect on a vacation, and you’ll leave feeling refreshed, rejuvenated, and having experienced a moment of clarity that will hopefully stay with you the rest of your life—or at least until you hit rush hour traffic again. The Zen-themed accommodations are in a choice of interesting buildings, from the Greek-styled three-story Matreiya House with its pyramidal bedroom, to a number of luxury cottages with smart marble bathrooms and an emphasis on tranquillity. If you’re not staying at the center, you can only visit with prior appointment from 10am to 1pm and from 3 to 5pm. The organizers won’t be thrilled to have you unless you show at least some interest in Osho’s work—at the very least, read some of his books before coming. While you’re here you can attend daily dynamic meditation at 6:30am, kundalini and dance meditation, and evening meetings of the Osho White Robe Brotherhood; the center also hosts regular silent retreats and a variety of workshops and special events.
Find out more through the website as you’ll need to pick a program before asking about costs;
www.oshonisarga.com
.
Note:
This Osho retreat is not connected with the Osho Meditation Resort in Pune, but is a result of a split in the global Osho brand that happened after his death; folks here are a little less interested in attracting “beginners.”

WHERE TO DINE

A Taste of Tibet

Confused by what’s available in the Tibetan restaurants of the Indian Himalayan region? Here’s a guide: Gyathuk is a traditional egg noodle soup, typically prepared with tofu and black-and-white mushrooms. Thenthuk is a broth made with handmade noodles. Pishi is another name for wontons, often served in a vegetable broth with Tibetan tofu. You’ll find Tibetan tofu and dumplings swimming in your mothuk, another traditional Tibetan broth. Shabaklab or shabalay is the Tibetan version of a pie, typically accompanied by broth. Momos are Tibetan dumplings, filled with cheese, vegetables, or meat. Shabri are seasoned meat or vegetable balls. Bobi are Tibetan spring rolls, filled with glass noodles, tofu, and mixed vegetables. Most Tibetan dishes can be served with vegetables, chicken, mutton, or even pork. Bod-jha is the staple Tibetan tea, copious quantities of which are consumed by Tibetans everywhere, and by almost no one else. It tastes nothing like any tea you’ve ever had—besides tea and milk, it contains salt and butter.

As with many of the towns popular with tourists, McLeod Ganj is disproportionately restaurant-heavy. There’s also a huge emphasis on vegetarian dining, thanks to the presence of the Dalai Lama. By far the best place to eat is Chonor House, which specializes in Tibetan cuisine (see below). Other Tibetan restaurants worth highlighting are
Green Restaurant
(Bhagsunag Rd.;
01892/22-1200
), which uses only organic produce, and the newly opened
Tibet Kitchen
on Jogibara Road, very close to the town square. Also on Jogibara, look for the lovely
Tibetan women selling homemade vegetable
momos
out on the street just outside the Norling Café—they’re extremely cheap, piping hot, and delicious. You can ask for them either steamed or fried, and eat them right there on the small bench provided, watching the world go by as you debate whether or not to order a second helping. You won’t regret it if you do, but be cautious with the hot sauce.

A personal favorite, though, is the
Namgyal Café
(Namgyal Monastery;
98-1615-0562;
daily 10am–9:30pm) in the same complex as the Tsuglakhang or Main Temple. It’s a wonderfully vibey haunt, where cool young Tibetans serve various tasty dishes and indulgences amid a tidy collection of books, plastic flowers, and hip jazzy lounge tunes. Market fresh ingredients are used to prepare traditional Tibetan
thukpa,
scrumptious salads, and exquisite thin-crust pizzas (which really have been improving over the past few years—look for the daily specials). Try the tofu stroganoff or
tsampa
(roasted flour) crepes; if you’re not feeling too experimental, stick to noodles,
momos,
or you can try out the international vegetarian dishes ranging from Indonesian
gado-gado
to Cuban
arroz a la cubana.
There’s no alcohol, but this is a great place to try Tibetan herbal tea or a refreshing
lassi
. They also serve butter tea and some great cakes to go with it.

While Tibetan fare would appear to be the way to go, you’ll pretty much find something for everyone—from falafels to focaccia,
momos
(dumplings) to tempura. At least four German bakeries and as many pizzerias also cater to the large number of foreigners who come to McLeod Ganj. There’s even a nifty grub-’n’-pub-style restaurant called
Mc’Llo
(at the top of Temple Rd.;
01892/22-1280
), an extremely popular hangout for travelers that prides itself on having once entertained Pierce Brosnan (celebrity culture having few geographical boundaries). If you want Japanese,
Lung Ta
is an intimate diner with meat-free dishes that includes a small floor-seating area with traditional low tables (Jogibara Rd.;
01892/22-0689
). Daily set meals feature a curious mix of Japanese vegetarian dishes; all meals a real steal at under Rs 100.

For Italian, head to
Nick’s Italian Kitchen
(in the Kunga Guesthouse, Bhagsu Rd., McLeod Ganj;
01892/22-1180
),
which is something of a local institution, as much for the surprisingly good meals as for the views from its massive terrace. Gnocchi, cannelloni, and ravioli are prepared fresh every morning. The eggplant, spinach, and cheese lasagnas are star attractions, as is the aptly named “Pizza Everything.” Nick’s has the edge, but if you’re passing
The Pizzeria
(past Tushita into Dharamkot village—ask anyone), you’ll find simple, tasty pizzas prepared by a local
Gaddi
family, apparently taught how to make wood-fire pizzas by a visiting Italian.