India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (346 page)

Thekchen Choling Rd. (road ends at Pema Thang, walk the last 50m/164 ft.), P.O. McLeod Ganj, Dharamsala 176 219.
01892/22-1468
or -1006. Fax 01892/22-0815.
www.norbulingka.org
. [email protected]. 11 units. Rs 2,200–Rs 2,850 double, Rs 3,300 suite; add 25% for extra bed. 10% tax extra. MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; TV lounge; airport transfers (Rs 850); cybercafe; library; room service. In room: A/C (planned for 2010), heater, Wi-Fi (Rs 80/day).

Glenmoor Cottages
Literally hidden from the world in the midst of a hillside forest, 1km (1⁄2 mile) beyond McLeod Ganj, these private cottages are perfect if you want to be left to your own devices. Remote and peaceful (you feel as if you’re a thousand miles from anything), Glenmoor is owned and run by the mild-mannered Ajai Singh, whose parents bought the tree-covered Om Bhawan estate in the 1940s. Ajai—who is filled with elegantly told tales of behind-the-scenes McLeod Ganj—built the simple stone cottages around the original colonial-era manor house. Perfect hideaways, the cottages are done out in rustic country style with pine interiors and private verandas from which to appreciate the infinite peace and quiet (save for the ceaseless chorus of cicadas). Upper cottages are larger—but the smaller lower cottages have loads of space, too. If you don’t feel like walking into town, order ahead to arrange home-cooked Indian meals or simple continental breakfasts in the small dining room above the manor house—or have them delivered to your cottage.

Above Mall Rd., Upper Dharamsala 176 219.
01892/22-1010.
Fax 01892/22-1021.
www.glenmoorcottages.com
. [email protected]. 6 units. Rs 4,300 upper cottage, Rs 3,200 lower cottage, Rs 1,800 double room; add 25% for extra bed. Rates exclude 10% tax. MC, V.
Amenities:
Dining room; airport transfers (Rs 850); room service. In room: TV, fridge, heater, Wi-Fi (Rs 60/hr.).

Hotel Eagle’s Nest
You’ll arrive on the back of a mountain horse and instantly fall in love with our favorite Himachal hideaway. Bo and Sheila traded London’s music industry for the tranquillity of the hills high above Dharamsala, transforming this old mission station into a gorgeous guesthouse. From high up here, the mayhem of McLeod Ganj seems light-years away and yet it’s a mere half-hour walk down the mountain. Rooms, on two levels around a homey dining room/library, have been personally designed, each one a different style (pick between Moghal, Tibetan, Modern, Himachali, or simply ask for the most spectacular view). Nothing feels even remotely hotel like, and yet little luxuries are laid on to make you feel like a special guest. Your hosts are particularly endearing—Bo doles out dry, robust wit, and Sheila lavishes you with warmth, and they both make you feel like you’re part of the family; you can join in activities in the kitchen, either watching over the chef’s shoulder, or having a go at making momos; one member of staff is a qualified Ayurvedic masseuse. Despite having all the comforts of home, the property is in a mountain wilderness with abundant fauna—langur monkeys hang out on the lawn (with the guesthouse horses), and there are pinemartins, porcupines, barking deer, leopard, Himalayan black bear, and plenty of birdlife in the vicinity. Sheer bliss.

Upper Dharamkot, McLeod Ganj, Dharamsala 176 219.
01892/22-1920,
-0793, -0794, or 92-1840-2822.
www.hoteleaglesnest.com
. [email protected]. 7 units. Summer & winter Rs 4,000–Rs 7,000 double; Off-season (Jan 5–Feb 15 & Jul–Aug) Rs 4,000–Rs 5,000. Rates include breakfast and porterage; Rs 400 lunch, Rs 600 dinner. MC, V.
Amenities:
Dining room, TV/DVD lounge; airport transfers (Rs 1,200); badminton; croquet; horseback riding; Internet (in study; free); small outdoor heated pool/Jacuzzi. In room Central heating, fireplace (in some), no phone.

Pema Thang
Prayer flags flutter between the trees outside this small, congenial guesthouse that has distinguished itself as one of the more auspicious budget options in McLeod Ganj. Ask for a room on the top floor—though all overlook the valley the view improves as you go up (along with a small hike in price); and there are balconies up here from which to take it all in. Things are decidedly modest and simple; rooms are clean with reasonably comfortable beds, and the restaurant prepares delicious vegetarian dishes, including authentic Tibetan fare. Away from the noise of the central square and yet only a stone’s throw from it, this very likable place is aided along by good vibrations from the friendly management team, always ready to lend a helping hand.

Hotel Bhagsu Rd., McLeod Ganj, Dharamsala 176 219.
01892/22-1871
or 92-1840-2718.
www.pemathang.net
. 15 units. Rs 825–Rs 1,155 double. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Restaurant; small library; room service; yoga. In room: Heating (Rs 150–Rs 200/day), TV (in some), Wi-Fi (8am–10:30pm; Rs 150/day).