India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (351 page)

VISITOR INFORMATION
Leh has a Tourist Information Center, but you are advised not to waste your time there. Speak to your hotel manager or any of the many tour operators who offer various services throughout Ladakh. You could also check out
www.leh.nic.in
. If you’re interested in learning more about Ladakhi culture and Buddhism, you can contact
Open Ladakh
(
www.openladakh.com
), which offers basic courses in Buddhist philosophy, not to mention “alternative” cultural and adventure tours through the region.

Altitude Sickness

Arriving by air into Leh makes most people feel slightly knocked out, with headaches, loss of appetite, drowsiness, and disturbed sleep—all early signs of altitude sickness. It’s necessary to stay put and drink lots of fluids for 48 hours to acclimatize before venturing higher into the mountains. Monitor your body and health, and don’t ignore worsening symptoms, which could lead to a pulmonary or cerebral edema. In Leh you can get 24-hour medical help for altitude sickness at
Sonam Norbu Memorial (SNM) Hospital
(
01982/25-2012
).

GETTING AROUND
By Car
Thanks to a strong military presence in the region, Ladakh’s roads are excellent and the network of accessible destinations extensive. Although Leh has but one auto-rickshaw, it has as many as 1,500 taxis, with fixed rates to practically any place in the state, or beyond. For taxi rates and bookings, call the
Leh Taxi Stand
(
01982/25-2723
). If you want to explore extensively, your best bet is to share a jeep (booked only through a travel agency) with fellow travelers interested in visiting similar destinations; most agencies will even advertise shared jeeps on your behalf. Mr. Tundup Dorje, a prolific writer, is the owner of
Overland Escape
(Raku Complex, Fort Rd., Leh;
01982/25-0858;
www.overlandescape.com
), the agent used by most hotels, and considered the most reliable in town; try him first.
Note:
You cannot rent a vehicle outside Leh if you want to tour within Ladakh.

GUIDED TOURS & ADVENTURE & TREKKING COMPANIES
It’s easy to plan your own outings and give the instructions to your jeep or taxi driver. If you want to deal with an outfitter, refer to the “Staying Active” section earlier in this chapter. If you are very keen on receiving expert information as you explore monasteries and other sights, then a licensed operator may be useful; use one of our recommendations, or ask your hotel to put you in touch with the right people. For a tour that includes good accommodations in pleasantly converted rooms in traditional village family homes, see “Village Homestays, Boutique-Style.”

Overland Escape
(see above) should be your first stop for all kinds of adventure activities or tours through Ladakh. Also recommended is
Yama Adventures
(
01982/25-0833
or 94-1917-8763;
www.yamatreks.com
), a small Ladakhi-owned company with a good track record; owner Rinchen Namgial (
99-0698-7782
) has previously worked with teams from the Smithsonian Institute and
National Geographic,
and puts together jeep safaris, relatively easy treks (such as the 8- to 10-day Markha Valley hike), and also more thrill-oriented experiences such as climbing the Stok glacier.
Banjara Camps,
although based in Delhi, is also highly recommended, and is the only outfit to use the services of a qualified geologist (Delhi office:
011/2686-1397,
011/2685-5153, or 98-1064-5455;
www.banjaracamps.com
). For more leisure-oriented travelers, Banjara also conducts jeep safaris of Ladakh. In Leh itself,
Rimo Expeditions
(Hotel Kanglhachen Complex, opposite the Police Station;
01982/25-3257
or -3348;
www.rimoexpeditions.com
) is a reliable outfit that undertakes a multitude of adventure-oriented multiday excursions. The company also arranges less hectic trekking expeditions, as well as jeep and yak safaris, and skiing, mountain biking, and challenging mountaineering packages for serious climbers. English-speaking mountain guides are provided, as well as all equipment, porters, cooks, and other staff.

Walking on Water & Other Adventures for Serious Trekkers

One of the crazier (or more adventurous) treks is the arduous 16-day
Chadar Trek
along the Zanskar River, sufficiently semifrozen to support your weight for 2 months of the year. For 4 days (one-way) you trek on slippery ice and occasionally climb around open water on this ancient trade route; at night, outside temperatures plummet to a bone-chilling 3.8°F (–15°C). By day (when it’s a mere 23.8°F/–4°C or so) the challenges are many, but the setting is awesome and there’s always the chance of meeting local Zanskaris. One of the best operators offering this trek is
Project Himalaya
(
977/98-0214-9789
in Kathmandu;
www.project-himalaya.com
; [email protected]), a Kathmandu-based company with good ethics and a somewhat unformulaic approach to its routes. Also taking in parts of Zanskar is the
Markha Valley Trek
(10–12 days)—considered one of the most exhilarating and varied on earth—undertaken by
Himalayan River Runners
(
www.hrrindia.com
) You cross two Himalayan passes at altitudes over 4,500m (14,760 ft.) and descend into the Zanskar Valley before finishing the in upper parts of the Markha, surrounded by jagged peaks.
Banjara
offers an 8-day version that follows the riverbed more closely and includes one very high pass. Bajara also offers a 2-week trek that culminates at
Lamayuru,
one of the most enchanting monasteries in Ladakh, and reached by way of some truly intense scenery. If you’re wanting to climb the Stok Glacier (traversing altitudes over 4,800m/16,000 ft.), contact Rinchen Namgial at
Yama Adventures
(
www.yamatreks.com
), who will make all the necessary arrangements (and get the special license required). Also ask about
treks to Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri;
again see “Staying Active,” earlier in this chapter, for more adventure companies.