India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (343 page)

Admittedly, a visit to Everyman’s spiritual center of the universe seems like the ultimate New Age cliché, but the town and its environs have much more to recommend than the fervent chanting of
Om mani padme hum
(“Hail to the jewel in the lotus”). The natural beauty of Dharamsala’s snow-tipped mountains and mist-soaked valleys compares favorably with that of any of Himachal’s best-loved resort towns, and for those not single-mindedly wrapped up in a quest for spiritual fine-tuning with Buddhist lectures and meditation courses, this is an ideal base for walks and treks into the Dhauladhar range. It’s also a good place to simply experience a toned-down India at a more leisurely pace.

The hillside town stretches along a spur of the Dhauladhar mountain range and is divided into two very distinct parts—Lower Dharamsala and
McLeod Ganj
(often called Little Lhasa). Only the latter is worth considering as a place to stay and explore; it’s an intriguingly cosmopolitan mix of brightly robed Buddhist monks in their Oakleys and Crocs (with thick woolen socks), traditionally attired Tibetan women reciting holy mantras, and spiritual tourists in search of enlightenment. It’s also become increasingly popular with Israeli travelers who tend to install themselves in the concrete village of Bhagsu, a short drive from the main bazaar; many long-stay visitors now congregate here and participate in myriad courses and workshops, from reiki to jewelry making, and there are scores of teachers, healers, and artists offering their services. A former British hill station rocked by an earthquake in the early 1900s, McLeod Ganj today harbors several institutes and organizations dedicated to raising funds for the Tibetan people and promoting and preserving Buddhist culture. Among these is the government-in-exile’s administration complex, or
Gangchen Kyishong,
where you’ll find the fascinating
Library of Tibetan Works and Archives.

Higher up the mountain, above McLeod Ganj and Bhagsu, is the more salubrious, uncrowded area of
Dharamkot
—more country village than suburb—where it’s possible to escape the activity along McLeod Ganj’s
Temple Road,
always lined with Tibetan vendors and a nonstop shuffle of people from all over the world. Dharamkot is the starting point for many excellent hikes into the Dhauladhar mountains that loom over Dharamsala, and in the uppermost part of the village, far, far from the maddening crowd is
Eagles Nest,
Himachal’s coziest, loveliest guesthouse.

North of Dharamsala are spectacular mountain-hugging drives to the remote towns of Dalhousie and Chamba, while farther south you can visit (and stay in) the charming heritage village of
Pragpur
and explore the tea-covered valleys around historical Taragarh Palace Hotel, not far from the scruffy town of
Palampur.

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION
There’s a
Tourist Information Office
(
01892/22-1205
or -1232; Mon–Sat 10am–1:30pm and 2–5pm) in McLeod Ganj, but you’ll be hard-pressed to squeeze anything worthwhile out of the lackluster staff; you’d do better to make inquiries at your hotel.
CONTACT
is a free monthly newsletter distributed in and around McLeod Ganj (
www.contactmag.org
). Although its primary aim is to promote Buddhist issues, it also carries up-to-date information and advertisements regarding cultural events and activities likely to be of interest to foreign visitors. If you are here for massage, meditation, alternative healing, yoga, or Tibetan cooking classes, this publication will point you in the right direction. Online sources of information include
www.dharamsalanet.com
, and the politically orientated
www.tibet.org
.

AUDIENCES WITH HH THE DALAI LAMA & HH THE KARMAPA
If your main reason for visiting Dharamsala is to attend a
public
teaching by His Holiness the Dalai Lama,
you had better plan well ahead, first by checking out his schedule on
www.tibet.com
, and then by making the necessary arrangements through the Branch Security Office (Bhagsu Rd.;
01892/22-1560
) when you arrive; a
private audience
will require you to write to His Holiness many months before you get here, and, unless you’re Richard Gere, you’ll need to make a very strong case for meeting him (Office of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, P.O. Mcleod Ganj, Dharamsala 176 219, India;
01892/22-1343
or -1879; fax 01892/22-1813; [email protected]). When attending one of his teachings, be sure to bring a cushion, an FM radio with headphones, a cup (for tea), sun protection, your passport (and a few extra passport photos, just in case), and as little else as possible (for security reasons). A
public audience with His Holiness the Karmapa
is easier to guarantee—he usually gives a public lecture, and a blessing to all who attend, at 2:30pm on Wednesdays and Saturdays at his monastery in Sidhpur. You don’t need to make an appointment, but can contact Lama Phuntsok (
94-1829-4401
or 01892/23-6637) for details, or to arrange a
private audience,
for which you should call at least 5 days in advance.

GETTING THERE & AROUND
It’s possible to
drive
from Shimla or Chandigarh to Dharamsala, and there are two great overnight options along the way—choose between
Taragarh Palace,
outside Palampur, or
The Judge’s Court,
in Pragpur (see later in this chapter). The most pleasant way to get to the Kangra Valley directly from Delhi is by
train
(driving by car takes almost 12 hr.). The overnight Jammu Mail from Delhi allows you to rest up before hiring a car for the scenic 3-hour road trip from Panthankot to Dharamsala (80km/50 miles). Another option is to
fly
—Kingfisher operates daily to
Kangra Airport
in Gaggal, 15km (9 1⁄3 miles) from Dharamsala. In Dharamsala, you will find it easy to get either a taxi or auto-rickshaw. (Auto-rickshaws are incredibly impractical for getting up to McLeod Ganj, however, because of the engine-killing gradient of the town.)
Ways Tours & Travels
(Temple Rd., McLeod Ganj;
01892/22-1910
or -1988;
www.waystours.com
; [email protected]) hires out cars with drivers for local sightseeing, and the friendly Mr. Gupta can help with all your travel arrangements as well as organize individually packaged tours throughout the region. (You can also contact Ways in New Delhi, at House no. 45, New Tibetan Camp, Majnu-Ka-Tilla; call
011/2381-3254
or 98-1128-9552.) A chauffeured round trip from McLeod Ganj to Pragpur or Palampur, with a guide, should cost around Rs 3,000. If you just want to hire a reliable taxi driver to take you just anywhere in Himachal (or on a tour of specific sights), call
Jagmohan Attri
(
98-1639-4043
); he operates out of Pragpur in the Kangra Valley and is not only great company, but full of unusual insights about the region and its people.