Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (18 page)

CREAM & GEL BLUSH APPLICATION

Cream and gel formulas should be saved for smooth skin. Powder formula is better for textured or blemished skin.

1
Apply over clean skin or foundation. The product can be applied with fingers, a foundation brush, or a sponge.

2
Use sparingly at first. You can always add more product if needed.

3
Smile, and apply the product to the apples of the cheeks and up toward the hairline, then down to soften the edges.

4
Blend thoroughly, keeping the most product on the highest part of the cheekbones.

Troubleshooting: Blush

Blush streaks

Your foundation probably wasn’t powdered, or you’ve used too much moisturizer under the foundation.

Looks flat

Layer cream rouge or balm on top of the color for a glow.

Chapter 5

LIPS

Applying lip color is one of the simplest of all makeup steps and is
a great way to instantly change a look.
Lip color applications range from simple, blotted-on stains to combinations of lip pencil, lipstick, and gloss. The right shade works with the skin tone and complements the natural color of the lips. You can choose from a wide range of product formulas, which include matte, sheer, shimmery, and creamy lipsticks and glosses.

COLOR & APPLICATION

Finding the Perfect Shade

To identify the best basic lip color, remove all makeup. The perfect neutral shade—pinky brown, nude, beige pink, rosy brown, pink, chocolate, or blackberry—will generally be close in tone to the natural lip color. The one that looks good on the naked face is the right neutral, everyday, mistake-proof color. It should not look ashy, orange, or pink but like an enhanced version of the natural lip color. Some women might need more color, and the shade that works best without makeup could be bright or dark rather than neutral. You know you have found the right shade when it enhances the skin tone, makes the eyes look brighter, and gives the face a lift.

Once you have identified the right neutral or everyday shade of lip color, you have the basis for selecting more dramatic colors. Most lip colors with the same undertone as the natural shade will look flattering.

Guide for Selecting Lip Color

Formula

MATTE PRODUCTS
are dense and last longest. They contain less moisture than other products, so they adhere to the lips and don’t fade as quickly. They are not appropriate for very dry lips.

SEMIMATTE PRODUCTS
are less dry than matte products and don’t last as long. They work best on textured or dry lips and give off a soft sheen.

SHEER COLORS
are see-through, forgiving, and easy to use.

STAINS
provide long-lasting, highly pigmented color.

TINTS,
like sheer glosses or balms, protect the lips with moisturizing formulas that usually contain sunscreen.

BALMS
are tinted or clear formulas and help soften the lips.

GLOSS STICKS
are hybrids, between sheer lipstick and gloss. They add a bit more pigment than lip gloss does but both are see-through and moist.

LIP GLOSSES
provide hydration, sun protection, and sheen. This formula is great for making the lips look fuller and for layering on top of other lip colors.

CHUBBY LIP PENCILS
will both define lips and provide a creamy matte texture. They are long lasting but can be a bit dry.

LIP LINERS
define the lips and keep lipstick on longer when used on the entire lip area.

LIP COLOR APPLICATION

Mixing and blending are fun but it’s always great to find a color that works directly out of the tube. Never buy a color that the makeup artist has to “fix” to work on you.

Troubleshooting: Lip Color

For pale lips
use pastel shades, such as pale pink or light beige. Deep tones appear very dark on pale lips, so apply them with a light hand.

Very dark lips
look best with blue-toned and deep, saturated lip color. Very pale shades of lipstick can appear gray or ashy on dark lips.