Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (16 page)

1
Choose the color according to the directions on page 66.

2
Apply powder with either a brush or a fluffy powder puff.

3
Dust the powder across the cheek and forehead.

4
Switch brushes to apply powder on top of the concealer. This powder is often lighter in color than the face powder.

Troubleshooting: Powder

After an application of concealer, foundation, and powder step back and observe what you have done. Do the products blend seamlessly and invisibly into the skin? Do you see any darkness or redness? Do not continue with any other makeup until the skin looks the best it can. If you need to improve how the skin looks, stop and look. Can it be corrected with a bronzing product? Or should you begin again using a different product?

Ashy

Warm up the powder color and/or add bronzer.

Orange

Is the skin oily? Did it change? Switch to paler powder and wait to check the results.

Flaky

The skin is too dry.

Cakey

Make sure you have enough moisturizer on the skin. It’s also possible to have too much. The foundation-to-moisturizer ratio may be giving the powder too much grab.

BRONZER & SELF-TANNER

Bronzers and self-tanners imitate the healthy look of the sun. They are also used as correctors to warm up the complexion. Applying bronzer is a great way to add a healthy glow all over the face and to even out color differences, especially through the neck. Bronzers work on all skin tones except porcelain because bronzer can make porcelain skin look dirty. Self-tanners can be used on the face and body to add color and hide flaws. When used on the face, apply self-tanner several hours before applying makeup, and don’t forget your neck and ears (and remember to wash your palms with soap and water). Bronzer works as a blush for very dark skin. On all other skin tones, blush should be used over bronzer to add a pop of bright color.

Color: How to Choose

Bronzers work best when the skin looks natural. They can be brown-, red-, blue-, orange-, and sometimes yellow-based.

ALABASTER SKIN
(Gwyneth Paltrow skin color) Pinky shimmer or peach

LIGHT
(Drew Barrymore) Beigy brown with a bit of pink

MEDIUM
(Sienna Miller) Browny pink with only a bit of orange for warmth

MEDIUM-DARK
(Jennifer Lopez) Brownish orange

DARK
(Vanessa Williams) Brownish red

DEEPEST
(Venus Williams) Brownish blue

Formulas

Bronzers are available in flat or shimmering powder, gel stick, and cream formulas. Self-tanners are available in cream, gel, and spray, and are often mixed with moisturizer to get the best results.

POWDER BRONZER APPLICATION

Powder bronzer is the easiest to apply. I use it to add a tint of color to the skin and to correct light foundation or red skin.

1
Using a large, flat brush, apply a small amount of bronzer for even distribution. Start on the apples of the cheeks.

2
Next, dust over the nose and chin.

3
Brush bronzer onto the neck area.