Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (15 page)

4
Use lighter color or mix light and dark foundation for cheeks.

5
Apply warm-color face powder all over the face to set the foundation.

6
Apply yellow powder on lids.

7
Apply yellow powder over concealer.

8
The end result is skin that is even and one tone.

SPECIAL SKIN CONDITIONS

Some faces need more than the basic application of foundation to look fresh and flawless. Others do best with the thinnest layer of expertly blended foundation. In special cases, you will need a skillful hand and specific application techniques. The best makeup artists recognize skin conditions, treat them appropriately, and use the perfect combination of product and technique to make the skin look its best. These product suggestions and techniques for various special skin conditions are basic guidelines. The trick is knowing when the makeup is working and when it needs to be changed. Experimentation is usually needed to achieve the desired results.

ROSACEA

A sheer, tinted moisturizer will diffuse redness. Too dense a product can make the face look masklike. Correct with a bronzer.

COMBINATION SKIN

Use moisturizer on areas of dry skin and an oil-absorbing lotion on the T-zone. Use an oil-free foundation all over the face during the summer, consider a more moisturizing formula for the winter. Either formulation can be used on specific areas of the face as needed.

EXTREMELY DRY SKIN

Use rich moisturizer followed by a creamy, moisturizing foundation. Don’t use powder. Balm or oil can be applied lightly on top of foundation.

BLEMISHES

Using a concealer brush, apply oil-free cover stick or foundation to the blemish. Try to match the skin tone exactly. Concealers, which are a shade or two lighter than the face, should not be used on blemishes. Pat the area lightly. Do not rub. Blend into a small area directly around the blemish. Powder to lock the product(s) in place. Continue with foundation.

HYPERPIGMENTATION (IN GENERAL)

Apply a foundation tone or spot concealer a shade lighter than the skin to the affected area with a small brush. A bronzing gel can be blended into the skin starting at the cheek area, working around the face. This will help blend the more pigmented skin. Layer foundation that matches your skin tone over the concealer and/or gel for a flawless finish. Experiment, as concealer alone is often too light and will highlight the spot rather than cover it effectively. Set foundation with powder.

BIRTHMARKS AND PORT-WINE STAINS

Several layers of concealer are needed to cover areas with very dark pigmentation. First, apply a pale yellow–toned foundation or concealer that is three to five shades lighter than the skin tone. Then, apply one that is only slightly lighter than the overall skin tone. Finally, apply a full-coverage foundation that matches the skin tone. Set with powder. Again, experiment to find the right tone and formulations to effectively cover very dark spots.

SCARS AND TATTOOS

It may not be possible to cover scars and tattoos completely. If stick foundation or cover stick does not cover them, try using Covermark, a heavy-duty concealer designed for tattoos and scars. Apply foundation that matches skin tone to the whole face, and set with a powder that matches the skin tone.

UNEVEN SKIN

Skin is sometimes darker through the forehead or through the area of the lower mouth. Two different tones of foundation can be used to match each of the skin tones. Blend well to create an even transition between tones. Bronzer can be used over foundation to even out skin tone. A gel bronzer applied to moisturized skin prior to foundation evens the skin as well. Foundation can then be applied where needed.

FRECKLES

Rather than using a heavy foundation to conceal freckles, let them show through. Use a tinted moisturizer that evens out skin tone, and consider using a bronzer to finish.

ACNE

Start with the right skincare regimen, and use oil-free moisturizers. Apply blemish cover stick with a small, clean brush, or spot conceal with an opaque foundation only in those areas where needed. Use a tinted moisturizer or lightweight liquid foundation to even out the skin tone. The trick is to blend away the discoloration without applying heavy coverage.

WRINKLES

Hydration is the key to creating smooth-looking skin. Ex-foliate regularly with a gentle scrub or an alpha hydroxy acid cream. Use water-infused hydrating ultrarich moisturizers and creamy makeup formulas. For lines around the lips, use a lip balm. Choose a creamy lipstick and matching pencil to prevent feathering.

POWDER

A light dusting of powder sets concealer and foundation for hours, keeping the skin looking fresh.

Choosing the Right Powder

Color

Like foundation, powder works only when it is the right shade. For most people, the right powder has a yellow undertone. While the color of the powder will vary to match the foundation, it is the yellow-toned base that will give warmth to the skin. White powder is right only for those with alabaster skin. Translucent powder is not invisible or transparent and only makes skin look ashy.

Texture

Pressed powder is best for touch-ups. It dispenses a small amount and comes in a convenient compact. It is great for those who like a very natural look. Loose powder is denser and provides more coverage. Depending on the application technique, loose powder can be matte or sheer. Not everyone needs powder. Those with very dry skin might use powder only to set under-eye concealer.

Tools

The right tools will supply the perfect amount of powder. Using a powder puff will give powder a smooth, opaque finish. A powder brush will allow a sheer finish. A clean powder brush is also used to remove excess powder after an application with a powder puff. A small concealer brush can be used to apply powder to the corners of the face—under and around the eyes and around the mouth and nose.

Tip

Oily skin can turn powder yellow or orange with time. Sometimes you have to choose a lighter color. To avoid powder buildup on oily skin, use an oil-blotting paper before touching up.

FACE POWDER APPLICATION

Some people with very dry skin can skip putting powder on the face. But everyone needs powder over concealer.