Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (22 page)

Eye Shadow Color Chart

BASE EYE SHADOW APPLICATION

Use a light shadow color as a base on the lids; apply it with a full shadow brush that covers the entire lid from lash line to browbone. This step creates a clean slate for the other shadows. It also keeps moisture away from the lid and takes away any discoloration. For some women who prefer a clean eye look, this may be the only shadow that’s needed.

Tip

Avoid eye shadows with red and purple undertones if you have redness around the eyes, as these colors will make your eyes look tired. Stick with neutral, brown, or gray colors, but beware that some browns and grays have so much red in them that they should not be used.

1
With a full shadow brush, apply a light shade (also known as your base color).

2
Apply color from the brow bone down to the lash line.

3
Don’t forget to cover the inner corner of the eye.

4
brush all the way up to the brow.

5
Make sure the eyelid is covered and the shadow is dense enough.

MEDIUM SHADOW & CONTOUR APPLICATION

This step starts with a color that doesn’t need to be blended to deepen the lid. Next, a deeper color is layered as a contour.

Contouring for Eyes

These tips can help change the look of your eyes, making them stand out or correcting a full, puffy eyelid.

Deep-set eyes
need to be brought out with light and medium to deep medium shades of shadow. Colors that are too dark recede and will make the eyes look even more deep set.

Wide-set eyes
will appear closer together with a sweep of shadow one to two shades darker than the foundation tone at the inner corner of the eye. When applying liner, thicken the line a bit at the inner corner, and do not extend it past the outer corner of the eye.

To make eyes look bigger
, line your eyes all the way around.

To make eyes look more oval
, top and bottom liner should meet at the outer corners. Then contour shadow from the lash line along the eyeliner outward and into the crease.

To make large eyes look smaller
, use a soft shadow color as a liner at the lower lash line. The shadow should be several shades lighter than the top liner.

To make eyes look less puffy
, apply contour shadow at the outer corners and blend it as you move in toward the nose.

1
Choose a medium-tone shadow for the lid.

2
with a medium fluffy shadow brush, apply color to the lid.

3
Continue applying from the lash line to the crease.

4
Layer a deeper medium shade on the outer corner and blend as you apply it. the correct shade will require little blending.