Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (21 page)

5
Make sure the brow is long enough.

ASIAN BROWS

Asian women often have sparse brows and need to fill in the brows to match a full head of hair.

1
Begin at the inside of the brow.

2
Fill in the brow using a shade that matches it. Use the powder to add density so it matches the hair on your head.

3
Lightly stroke along the length of the brow.

4
Continue all the way up the arch, turning the brush as it goes down.

5
Make sure the brow is long enough.

6
Use a clear eyebrow mascara to brush up an unruly brow.

TWEEZING

It’s best to get a professional shaping to begin. It’s easier for upkeep. Tweezing after the shower is less painful than at other times.

1
Begin by cleaning under the arch of the eyebrow. Remove a few hairs at a time, checking the results as you go.

2
Slowly tweeze, moving inward toward the thickest part of the brow.

Tip

Some unruly brows will benefit from trimming long hairs with baby scissors.

Grooming Brows

To fill obvious holes or lengthen overplucked brows,
use either pencil alone or a pencil-to-powder method. Using an eyebrow pencil in a shade that matches the brow color, fill with a light, feathery stroke, mimicking the look of hair. If using a powdered eye shadow, choose one that closely matches the hair and brow color. Using a stiff, flat, angled brow brush, pick up a small amount of color, and tap off the excess. Lightly stroke the shadow from the inner corner of the brow along the entire length to fill it in. Stroke color along the upper edge of the brow to accentuate the arch and give a “lift” to the eye area.

Apply shadow color
only to the hair of the brows.

Finish with a coat of clear brow gel
to set and tame any unruly brow hairs.

Look at your brows.
Does the shape and intensity of color look natural and balance the face? A dusting of powder can soften the color if needed. Use a brow shaper to tame unruly brow hairs.

The Perfect Brow

The start of the brow should be aligned with the inner corner of the eye. The arch is three-quarters of the way across the brow from there.

EYE SHADOW

Eye shadow helps accentuate the eye and makes eye color stand out. It is also used to correct eye shape.

Formula and Texture

Eye shadow is available in many formulas and textures: powder, cream, and pencil, matte, sheer, shimmery, glittery, creamy, glossy, etc.

The Basic Eye

Most of the time, a simple, natural look works best. For everyday application, pick shades of shadow that bring out the eye color rather than shadows that make a statement. The basic application is a simple, three-step process.

Crease Color or Contour

If you want to create depth or contour, choose a slightly deeper medium-toned shadow to sweep in the crease of the eye. Crease contour creates definition for puffy or deep-set eyes and can make a stronger eye statement for evening. Begin the shadow at the outside edge of the crease, and move inward with your brush. Softly layer the shadow, repeating and blending until you achieve the desired effect. Always use a blending brush or finger to create a smooth look.