reached Honolulu harborafter thirty-one daysStoddard was in no mood to sail on to Samoa; and for the last few stories to finish his book, he would rely once more on Hawaiian inspiration.
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After a few days at Waikiki, where he was a guest of Hawaiian royalty. Stoddard crossed over to Lahaina to visit his younger brother, Sam. Within a year Sam would die of tuberculosis; within a few months Stoddard's older brother, Ned, would finally die of the ailment that had plagued him since boyhood. Intimations of his brothers' mortality contributed, perhaps, to the uncharacteristically subdued tone of "The House of the Sun," "The Chapel of the Palms," and "Kahéle," the three sketches derived from this trip. For whatever reason, Stoddard was unusually pensive during his stay on Maui.
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One of his most poignant experiences was meeting two French Catholic priests who served the villages on the eastern coast of the island. After inspecting Haleakala, the huge crater in the center of Maui, Stoddard and his guide Kahéle encountered Père Fidelis, a self-sacrificing "martyr" whose devotion to his "dusky worshippers" was deeply touching. This priest in turn introduced them to Père Amabilis, who, despite his own spartan habits, provided Stoddard with the best of everything. After a delicious luau, strong French coffee, and a smoke under the stars, the priests insisted that Stoddard sleep in the only bed while they slept on the bare floor. Such kindnesses touched him to the quick: "I wonder why the twin fathers were so very careful of me that morning? They could not do enough to satisfy themselves, and that made me miserable; they stabbed me with tender words, and tried to be cheerful with such evident effort that I couldn't eat half my breakfast, though, as it was, I ate more than they didGod forgive me!and altogether it was a solemn and memorable meal" ("The Chapel of the Palms," SSI 256).
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In Stoddard's eyes there were two kinds of missionaries in Hawaii and throughout the world: the self-important and prudish Protestants, who were harassing the natives to adopt clothes and abjure the hula; and the Catholics, such as these priests on Maui and, later, Father Damien, who were well-educated, tolerant, and selfless, and who impressed Stoddard as being uncanonized saints. Their example made him wonder if serving the church might not be the answer for him after all. If only he could put off his worldly cares, resign ambition, forget the past, and dwell joyfully under the palms with the good priests for the rest of his life!
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