A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great (26 page)
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Authors: Marco Canora,Tammy Walker
BOOK: A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great
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POACHED RED
SNAPPER AND CLAMS WITH
WINTER VEGETABLES
SERVES 4
SNAPPER AND CLAMS WITH
WINTER VEGETABLES
SERVES 4
When you eat with the seasons, using ingredients when they’re at their best, food simply tastes better. It’s instinctual to be drawn to heartier flavors in the winter and lighter flavors in the warm months—it just feels right. But this doesn’t mean you have to say goodbye to some of your favorite dishes for half the year. In this case, I’ve winterized a spring dish that I love by using hearty vegetables that are in season in the colder months. While the technique is basically the same, you get a completely different flavor that’s more in line with a cold night by the fire. This version of poached fish and clams has a curative effect, in the way that chicken soup does. When I need a rest from heavier stews and meaty braises, I turn to this.
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4 (6-ounce) skin-on red snapper fillets
1 dozen littleneck clams
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1 medium carrot, thinly sliced
1 small celery stalk, thinly sliced
1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced
½ leek, white and pale green parts only, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise, washed
½ small white onion, sliced
2 small garlic cloves, sliced
1 bay leaf
1 sprig of fresh rosemary
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1
With a sharp knife, score the skin of each fillet, making three diagonal slashes about 1 inch apart. Scrub any sand and grit off the clams, then soak them in a bowl of cold water for 20 minutes.
With a sharp knife, score the skin of each fillet, making three diagonal slashes about 1 inch apart. Scrub any sand and grit off the clams, then soak them in a bowl of cold water for 20 minutes.
2
In a large shallow pan, heat the olive oil over high heat. Once the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery, fennel, leek, onion, garlic, bay leaf, rosemary, and a big pinch of salt and stir to coat with the oil. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook, stirring every 3 minutes, until the vegetables are soft, but not browned, about 9 minutes.
In a large shallow pan, heat the olive oil over high heat. Once the oil starts to shimmer, add the carrot, celery, fennel, leek, onion, garlic, bay leaf, rosemary, and a big pinch of salt and stir to coat with the oil. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook, stirring every 3 minutes, until the vegetables are soft, but not browned, about 9 minutes.
3
Drain and rinse the clams and add them to the pan. Add the wine, vinegar, and ¼ cup water. Cover, nudge the heat up to medium-high, and cook until the clams open, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low.
Drain and rinse the clams and add them to the pan. Add the wine, vinegar, and ¼ cup water. Cover, nudge the heat up to medium-high, and cook until the clams open, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low.
4
Lightly season both sides of the fillets with salt and pepper and nestle them in a single layer among the vegetables and clams. The liquid should have the tiniest amount of movement—not an active simmer. Cover and poach the fish for 5 minutes. The fish is done when it’s opaque and there’s little resistance when you insert a knife in the thickest part. Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if needed.
Lightly season both sides of the fillets with salt and pepper and nestle them in a single layer among the vegetables and clams. The liquid should have the tiniest amount of movement—not an active simmer. Cover and poach the fish for 5 minutes. The fish is done when it’s opaque and there’s little resistance when you insert a knife in the thickest part. Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if needed.
5
Place a fillet and 3 clams in each bowl and ladle the vegetables and broth over each. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and the parsley.
Place a fillet and 3 clams in each bowl and ladle the vegetables and broth over each. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and the parsley.
BLACK RICE
SEAFOOD RISOTTO
SERVES 4 TO 6
SEAFOOD RISOTTO
SERVES 4 TO 6
This exotic risotto tastes as impressive as it looks, earning you Hosting Hall of Fame status with any guests at your dinner table. It balances the deep, nutty richness of black rice with the tender sweetness of calamari and shrimp and noticeable heat from the peperoncini. The seafood cooks in about 2 minutes, so the majority of your effort is focused on the black rice. Also called forbidden rice, black rice is a trip: Once cooked, it turns dark purple, and the kernels are very chewy, retaining a slight bite even after they’re fully cooked (unlike the creamier Arborio rice). It’s insanely delicious.
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Black rice has all the benefits of brown rice, with the added perk of some serious anthocyanin antioxidants, the same ones that give blueberries and blackberries their deep, inky color. The hard outer shell of black rice holds all this goodness, but also makes its cooking time longer than white rice, and even a bit longer than brown rice.
Sometimes I boil the water in a teapot, making it easier to pour each addition of water into the pan of rice.
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped (about 1 cup)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 dried peperoncini (or ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes), minced
1 medium yellow onion, minced (about 1½ cups)
5 garlic cloves, minced (about 1 tablespoon)
2 cups black rice (like Lundberg Black Japonica or Forbidden Rice)
Fine sea salt
¾ cup dry white wine
1 pound cleaned squid rinsed in cool water and cut into thin rings (about ⅛ inch thick), large tentacles halved
½ pound (21/25) shrimp, peeled, deveined, and chopped into small pieces
1 cup halved grape tomatoes
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1
In a pot (or kettle), bring 10 cups of water to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer.
In a pot (or kettle), bring 10 cups of water to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer.
2
Pile the lemon zest on top of the chopped parsley and finely chop them together.
Pile the lemon zest on top of the chopped parsley and finely chop them together.
3
In a large high-sided skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat. When the oil is hot and slides easily across the pan, add the peperoncini, onion, and garlic, stirring to coat with the oil. Fry for 1 minute, then reduce the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and a pinch of salt, stirring to coat the rice with the oil and onions. Toast the rice for 3 minutes, stirring frequently.
In a large high-sided skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat. When the oil is hot and slides easily across the pan, add the peperoncini, onion, and garlic, stirring to coat with the oil. Fry for 1 minute, then reduce the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and a pinch of salt, stirring to coat the rice with the oil and onions. Toast the rice for 3 minutes, stirring frequently.
4
Add the wine. Let it bubble, stirring occasionally, until it’s absorbed, about 3 minutes. Add just enough hot water to cover the rice, about 2 cups, and cook, stirring and scraping rice away from the sides occasionally until the liquid is mostly absorbed, about 12 minutes. Again, add just enough hot water to cover the rice and stir every couple of minutes, until the broth is incorporated and the rice is almost dry, 10 to 12 minutes. Continue adding hot water just to cover the rice, stirring occasionally and waiting until the water is absorbed to add more, about 30 minutes.
Add the wine. Let it bubble, stirring occasionally, until it’s absorbed, about 3 minutes. Add just enough hot water to cover the rice, about 2 cups, and cook, stirring and scraping rice away from the sides occasionally until the liquid is mostly absorbed, about 12 minutes. Again, add just enough hot water to cover the rice and stir every couple of minutes, until the broth is incorporated and the rice is almost dry, 10 to 12 minutes. Continue adding hot water just to cover the rice, stirring occasionally and waiting until the water is absorbed to add more, about 30 minutes.
5
Stirring more frequently now, continue adding the remaining hot water to cover the rice, about ½ cup at a time, until it’s absorbed, about every 5 minutes, for 10 to 15 minutes. When it’s fully cooked, the rice will be firm, but tender and somewhat chewy.
Stirring more frequently now, continue adding the remaining hot water to cover the rice, about ½ cup at a time, until it’s absorbed, about every 5 minutes, for 10 to 15 minutes. When it’s fully cooked, the rice will be firm, but tender and somewhat chewy.
6
Add the squid, shrimp, tomatoes, and a big pinch of salt. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove the pan from the heat and add the lemon-parsley mixture and the lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt. If the rice has started to go dry and sticky (it continues to absorb water even off the heat), add a little more water to loosen it before serving.
Add the squid, shrimp, tomatoes, and a big pinch of salt. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove the pan from the heat and add the lemon-parsley mixture and the lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt. If the rice has started to go dry and sticky (it continues to absorb water even off the heat), add a little more water to loosen it before serving.
STEAMED BLACK BASS WITH
BOK
CHOY
SERVES 4
BOK
CHOY
SERVES 4
There’s no better way to bring out the clean, pure flavors of fresh fish than by steaming it. In a simple, two-tiered Chinese bamboo steamer, the fish is surrounded with moist heat, so there’s little danger of it drying out, and you can subtly infuse it with any herbs, citrus, or seasonings you like. There’s not a lot to this process, so seeking the best-quality, freshest fish is especially important. I like the mild sweetness of black sea bass, but any firm-fleshed white fish, including halibut and red snapper, will work just as well. Serve this with a bowl of steamed sweet brown rice.
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4 (5- to 6-ounce) skin-on black bass fillets
2 heads bok choy, halved through the core
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
2 lemons, sliced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
Soy-Ginger Vinaigrette
, to taste
, to taste
1
Season the fillets and the bok choy on both sides with salt and pepper. Brush each fillet with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil and toss the bok choy with the remaining 2 teaspoons olive oil.
Season the fillets and the bok choy on both sides with salt and pepper. Brush each fillet with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil and toss the bok choy with the remaining 2 teaspoons olive oil.
2
Pour 3 inches of water into a pot. Make sure the bamboo steamer can sit on top of the pot with about 1 inch of space between the water and the bottom of the steamer. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer.
Pour 3 inches of water into a pot. Make sure the bamboo steamer can sit on top of the pot with about 1 inch of space between the water and the bottom of the steamer. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer.
3
Line the bottom of two steamer baskets with the lemon slices and evenly distribute the ginger on top of the lemon. In each basket, arrange 2 fillets skin-side up and 2 halves of bok choy in a single layer. Stack the baskets and cover with the bamboo top. Place the entire steamer basket on top of the pot of simmering water and steam until the bok choy is tender, the fish is opaque, and a thin knife poked in a seam in the flesh meets little resistance, 5 to 7 minutes.
Line the bottom of two steamer baskets with the lemon slices and evenly distribute the ginger on top of the lemon. In each basket, arrange 2 fillets skin-side up and 2 halves of bok choy in a single layer. Stack the baskets and cover with the bamboo top. Place the entire steamer basket on top of the pot of simmering water and steam until the bok choy is tender, the fish is opaque, and a thin knife poked in a seam in the flesh meets little resistance, 5 to 7 minutes.
4
Season the fish and bok choy with a sprinkle of salt and add Soy-Ginger Vinaigrette.
Season the fish and bok choy with a sprinkle of salt and add Soy-Ginger Vinaigrette.
Salmon Tacos with Guacamole, Salsa, and Cabbage-Radish Slaw
SALMON
TACOS WITH GUACAMOLE,
SALSA, AND CABBAGE-RADISH SLAW
SERVES 4 TO 6
TACOS WITH GUACAMOLE,
SALSA, AND CABBAGE-RADISH SLAW
SERVES 4 TO 6
Everybody’s happy with fish tacos. Something about this meal feels celebratory, even if it’s a random Monday night. At least once a year I make fish tacos with my family on Martha’s Vineyard, using fresh local striped bass. It’s perfect summertime eating—clean, fresh Mexican flavors, rather than the heavy fried stuff. At home, I usually use salmon, but you can substitute any firm white fish.
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12 corn tortillas
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1¼ pounds skinless wild salmon fillet, cut into 12 pieces
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Tomato Salsa
(recipe follows)
(recipe follows)
Guacamole
(recipe follows)
(recipe follows)
Cabbage-Radish Slaw
(recipe follows)
(recipe follows)
Sour cream, sliced jalapeños, and lime wedges, for serving
1
Preheat the oven to 200˚F. Line the bottom of a baking pan with a damp paper towel and add a stack of tortillas. Cover with another damp paper towel and seal the pan with foil. Warm in the oven while the fish cooks.
Preheat the oven to 200˚F. Line the bottom of a baking pan with a damp paper towel and add a stack of tortillas. Cover with another damp paper towel and seal the pan with foil. Warm in the oven while the fish cooks.
2
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat. Season the salmon pieces on both sides with salt and pepper. When you see wisps of smoke coming off the pan, add the salmon and sear for 1½ minutes on both sides.
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat. Season the salmon pieces on both sides with salt and pepper. When you see wisps of smoke coming off the pan, add the salmon and sear for 1½ minutes on both sides.
3
Fill the warmed tortillas with salmon and top with salsa, guacamole, and slaw. Garnish with sour cream, jalapeños, and a squeeze of fresh lime.
Fill the warmed tortillas with salmon and top with salsa, guacamole, and slaw. Garnish with sour cream, jalapeños, and a squeeze of fresh lime.
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