JAPANESE
CHICKEN AND
RICE SOUP
SERVES 4 TO 6
If I haven’t harped enough on how advantageous it is to have homemade chicken broth on hand, this recipe should hit it home for you. In just 25 minutes, you’re digging into a bowl of warming, deeply flavorful, umami-filled, immunity-boosting soup. Thin strips of chicken quickly poach in broth swimming with brown rice, toasted nori, shiitake mushrooms, tamari, and a bit of lemon juice. I find there’s a lot of symmetry between Italian and Japanese cuisines, not only for their emphasis on seasonality and simplicity, but also for their heavy reliance on umami ingredients. Where Italian cooks use tomatoes, anchovies, Parmesan cheese, and dried porcinis, Japanese use soy sauce, tamari, miso paste, seaweed, and bonito flakes (dried, fermented fish).
Nori is dried seaweed, which you probably know best as the wrapper for sushi rolls. I love how it adds a hint of salty sea flavor to the earthiness of the mushrooms and the rich chicken broth. Look for toasted nori strips in the Asian food section of your store. I use Eden Foods Nori Krinkles.
▪
Tamari is a staple in most Asian pantries. It looks and tastes a lot like soy sauce, since they’re both made from fermented soybeans. The difference is that soy sauce is almost always made with wheat and tamari is traditionally made with little or no wheat. Tamari’s rich concentration of soybeans gives it a darker color and deeper, smoother flavor than soy sauce. It’s also less salty, so I prefer it to soy sauce for cooking.
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, thinly sliced into 1-inch-long pieces
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
3½ ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded, caps thinly sliced (about 1½ cups)
1 cup cooked brown rice
½ cup nori crinkles (or you can slice up your own toasted nori sheets into ½-inch squares)
2 tablespoons tamari
Juice of ½ lemon
1 bunch scallions, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced (about ½ cup)
1
In a large pot, bring the chicken broth to a boil over high heat. In a small bowl, combine the chicken and ginger and mix well.
2
When the broth reaches a boil, bring the heat down to medium. Add the ginger-marinated chicken and give it a stir. Add the shiitakes, rice, nori, tamari, and lemon juice and stir. Cover and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the scallions. Ladle into bowls and serve.
MEXICAN
CHICKEN SOUP
SERVES 4 TO 6
This lively chicken soup relies on the essential Mexican flavors of corn, lime, cilantro, avocado, and jalapeño. The heat from the jalapeño is fairly mild, so if you like things with more assertive heat, add another jalapeño and leave in the seeds. The chicken here comes from pan-roasted, bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts; the bone and skin contribute immensely to the flavor and moistness of the chicken. Cooking meat on the bone helps even the distribution of heat and the skin protects the exterior so it doesn’t dry out before the inside is cooked. You can use this simple method to roast a few pounds of bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts and keep the meat around for soups, sandwiches, and quick snacks.
▪
2 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts, rinsed and patted dry
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 cup chopped carrots
2 cups chopped celery
2 cups chopped onion
1 fresh jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
2 tomatoes, halved, juiced, and roughly chopped or 1 (14.5-ounce) can whole tomatoes, drained and chopped (about 2 cups)
1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
2 avocados
Thinly sliced radishes, cilantro leaves, and lime wedges, for serving (optional)
1
Let the chicken come to room temperature about 20 minutes before cooking. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Generously season the chicken on both sides.
2
In an ovenproof skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over high heat. When the oil slides easily across the pan, add the chicken skin-side down and cook, untouched, for 1 minute. Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook until the chicken shows no sign of pink when pierced near the bone, about 30 minutes. Flip each breast and set the skillet aside until the chicken is cool enough to handle. Chop or shred the meat into bite-size pieces, discarding the skin and bones.
3
In a large pot, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over high heat. When the oil is hot, add the carrots, celery, onions, and jalapeño. Stir and cook for 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the tomatoes, corn, and a few pinches of salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes start to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the broth and bring it to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the chicken, cilantro, and lime juice and simmer for 5 minutes.
4
To serve, scoop one-quarter of an avocado into each bowl and chop it up into a few chunks. Ladle the soup over it and add any of the toppings you like.
NEW YORK CITY JEWISH-STYLE
CHICKEN
SOUP
SERVES 4 TO 6
Classic Jewish chicken soup is a glorious thing. For me, it’s up there with ribollita (my favorite
Tuscan soup
) as one of the best ways to fully appreciate the simplicity and beauty of broth-based soup. My version takes cues from the many bowls I dug into over the years at the original 2nd Ave Deli, one of New York City’s most famous Jewish delis. I roast bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts and add the meat to a golden pool of chicken broth, along with dill and chunks of carrots, celery, and onion. After consulting my Hebrew helper, an expert on the matter, I also worked in the Jewish “golden coins.” Traditionally, these are dollops of chicken fat that rise to the top of the soup and don’t get skimmed off. My nod to the fatty goodness of the golden coins is to top each serving with generous dots of extra virgin olive oil.
▪
2 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts, rinsed and patted dry
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish
2 large carrots, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices (about 2 cups)
4 celery stalks, chopped (about 1½ cups)
1 large onion, cut into large dice (about 2 cups)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
1
Let the chicken come to room temperature about 20 minutes before cooking. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Generously season the chicken on both sides with salt and pepper.
2
In a large ovenproof skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over high heat. When the oil slides easily across the pan, add the chicken skin-side down and cook, untouched, for 1 minute. Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook until the chicken shows no sign of pink when pierced near the bone, about 30 minutes. Flip each breast and set the skillet aside until the chicken is cool enough to handle. Chop or shred the meat into bite-size pieces (these can go back into the skillet), discarding the skin and bones.
3
In a large pot, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the carrots, celery, onion, and a pinch of salt and cook for 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the vegetables are tender about 15 minutes. Add the chicken (including the juices it released in the skillet) and dill and simmer for 5 minutes more. Add salt to taste.
4
To serve, ladle into bowls and dot the top of each serving with a couple of ½-teaspoon “golden coins” of olive oil.
FLAVOR-POUNDED CHICKEN
SERVES 4
For years I had zero respect for boneless, skinless chicken breasts and questioned why anyone bothered with a food so bland and oppressively dry that eating it feels like chewing on a towel. But as I set off on the path to eat better, I couldn’t help but come face-to-face with boneless, skinless chicken breasts. They’re lean, full of protein, versatile, and, as it turns out, capable of carrying a ton of flavor and juiciness if you cook them right. To do this, I butterfly the breast and pound the meat thin, so it cooks evenly and quickly without drying out. This also increases the surface area of meat touching the pan, leading to that deeply flavorful crust I want. Then I make a mixture of Tuscan flavors—olive oil, chopped sage and rosemary, lemon, and garlic—and literally pound it directly into both sides of the breast. After just 90 seconds in a hot pan, the payoff is an insanely tender, delicious chicken breast that has all the succulence of dark meat. Another perk to this method is that the size of the thinned-out meat tricks you into thinking you’re getting a lot more than just one breast. (When your plate looks full, you tend to believe you’re eating more and feel full as a result.)
The best results come from smaller chicken breasts—they’re easier to pound out to a uniform thickness. You can easily prepare the breasts ahead of time—after step 2, just cover the chicken in plastic wrap and refrigerate, and they’ll keep for up to 2 days. You can also cook more than one at a time, but be sure you don’t overcrowd the pan, or you’ll have a hard time developing a caramelized crust.
▪
4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts
12 large fresh sage leaves, roughly chopped
Leaves from 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary, roughly chopped
Grated zest of 2 small lemons
2 small garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
8 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil, plus 4 tablespoons for cooking
4 lemon wedges
1
Starting at the thicker side, make a lengthwise cut into the top two-thirds of a chicken breast, stopping before cutting all the way through. Fold it open like a book. (The chicken breast should still be in one piece.) Put the breast between two pieces of plastic wrap and pound it out on both sides with the flat side of a meat tenderizer, working from the inside out, until it’s spread to double its original size and about ¼ inch thick. Repeat with the remaining breasts.
2
Pile the sage, rosemary, lemon zest, and garlic on a cutting board and chop together until blended. In a bowl, combine the herb mixture, salt, a few grinds of black pepper, and 8 teaspoons of the olive oil. Divide half of the herb paste evenly across one side of the 4 chicken breasts and rub it in. Cover with plastic wrap again and lightly pound in the seasoning with the toothy side of the meat tenderizer. Flip the breasts, rub the remaining herb paste into the other side of the chicken breasts. Cover with plastic wrap and lightly pound in the seasoning.
3
In a large skillet heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over high heat. Wait 2 minutes, or until it’s smoking hot, add 1 chicken breast, put a weight on it (a teakettle or heavy pan) and cook for 45 seconds. Flip, add the weight, and cook for another 45 seconds. Transfer to a plate, and let it rest for 3 minutes. Meanwhile, repeat with the remaining chicken breasts. Squeeze a wedge of lemon over each flavor-pounded chicken just before serving.
Butterfly the breast, making a lengthwise cut into the top two-thirds.
Cover the meat with plastic wrap and pound on both sides with the flat side of a meat tenderizer.
Unwrap and add the seasoning, then rewrap and pound with the toothy side of the meat tenderizer.
Variations
While Tuscan flavors are my natural inclination, I often make one of the Flavor-Pounded Chicken variations below. Except for the couple instances that I’ve noted, steps 1 and 3 are the same for all. Once you get an understanding of the process, I encourage you to follow your own preferences and start pounding whatever flavor you like into the chicken.
INDIAN
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons turmeric
2 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
For step 2:
In a bowl, combine the cumin, turmeric, onion powder, coriander, salt, several grinds of pepper, and the olive oil. Season and pound as described in the main recipe.
Indian
MAPLE SPICE
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 teaspoons maple syrup
For step 2:
In a bowl, combine the cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, salt, and several grinds of pepper. Divide half the spice mixture evenly across one side of the 4 chicken breasts and drizzle ½ teaspoon maple syrup over each. Rub in the seasoning and maple syrup. Cover with plastic wrap and lightly pound in the seasoning with the toothy side of the meat tenderizer. Flip and rub the rest of the spice mixture into the other side of the chicken breasts. Drizzle another ½ teaspoon maple syrup over each breast. Cover with plastic wrap and lightly pound in the seasoning.
ITALIAN-AMERICAN
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
4 teaspoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
4 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons tomato paste
For step 2:
In a bowl, combine the garlic powder, oregano, salt, Parmesan, several grinds of pepper, and the olive oil. Divide half the oregano mixture evenly across one side of the 4 chicken breasts and add ¼ teaspoon tomato paste to each breast. Rub in the seasoning and tomato paste. Cover with plastic wrap and lightly pound in the seasoning with the toothy side of the meat tenderizer. Flip and divide the rest of the oregano mixture evenly across the other side of the chicken breasts. Add another ¼ teaspoon of tomato paste to each breast and rub it in. Cover with plastic wrap before lightly pounding again.
Italian-American
THAI
Grated zest of 4 limes
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
4 teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
2 teaspoons fish sauce
2 teaspoons tamarind paste (optional)
4 tablespoons virgin coconut oil
4 lime wedges
For step 2:
In a bowl, combine the lime zest, ginger, cilantro, cardamom, salt, fish sauce, and tamarind paste (if using). Divide half the mixture evenly across one side of the 4 chicken breasts and rub it in. Cover with plastic wrap and lightly pound in the seasoning with the toothy side of the meat tenderizer. Flip and rub the rest of the mixture into the other side of the chicken breasts. Cover with plastic wrap and lightly pound in the seasoning.
For step 3:
Substitute coconut oil for olive oil and squeeze a wedge of lime over each flavor-pounded chicken just before serving.
JAPANESE
Grated zest of 2 lemons
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
2 teaspoons dried seaweed granules (dulse, kelp, nori, any kind works)
4 teaspoons soy sauce or tamari
4 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
For step 2:
In a bowl, combine the lemon zest, ginger, seaweed granules, soy sauce, sesame oil, and salt. Season and pound as described in the main recipe.