Cured Salmon
CURED SALMON
SERVES 4 TO 6
I’m a huge fan of the silky-smooth, sliceable flesh of cured salmon, and surprisingly little is required to make it at home: a quality piece of fish, herb-and-citrus-spiked salt, and a little patience for the 24 hours it takes to cure. A major advantage of curing is that it removes moisture from the fish, thereby preserving it and allowing you to eat from it all week. Slice it up to have with eggs, pile it on toasted bread with capers and red onion, or have a few shavings as a snack. You can also set out a big hunk of it as a party appetizer or for breakfast when you have company. Ask the person at the fish counter for the top, thick end of the salmon, not the tail end; using a thicker cut of fish with more flesh gives you a tastier result.
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Once you’ve got the method down, you can customize the cure to include your favorite herbs and spices. To name a few—dill, fennel seeds, ground coriander, and orange or grapefruit zest would all be great here.
1 cup fine sea salt
2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
1 pound wild skin-on salmon fillet (about 6 inches long and 1½ inches thick)
1
In a bowl, combine the salt, pepper, lemon zest, and herbs.
2
Pat the salmon dry on both sides with a paper towel and lay it skin-side up on a cutting board. With a sharp knife, score the skin diagonally in 3 places, being careful not to slice into the flesh. (This allows the salmon flesh to draw in the salt and cure faster.)
3
Put several long pieces of plastic wrap over a baking sheet. In the center, arrange half the salt mixture in a mound the same length as the salmon fillet. Place the fish skin-side down over the mound, then spread the remaining salt mixture evenly over the flesh side of the salmon. Wrap the salmon tightly in the plastic wrap. Put another baking sheet on top and weight it with several heavy jars or cans, sandwiching the wrapped salmon in between the pans. Refrigerate for 24 hours. After this time, the salmon flesh should feel firm, but not hard. (If it’s squishy, wrap it back up and refrigerate for another day.)
4
Unwrap the salmon and rinse off the cure under cold water. Pat it dry with paper towels. Use a sharp, nonserrated knife to slice the flesh into paper-thin pieces. Store in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Salmon and Arugula Salad with Pomegranate
SALMON
AND ARUGULA SALAD WITH
POMEGRANATE
SERVES 4
This is one of my go-to meals when I’m taking it easy on high-carbohydrate foods. Especially when I’m at the restaurant, where bread and pasta are staring me in the face all day, I need a super simple lunch that’s fast, filling, and jammed with flavor. This salad is everything I want. There are a few ways to dress it—as with most salads, I’m a big fan of the on-the-fly method—just a squeeze of lemon, drizzle of olive oil, salt, and pepper. Of course, you could also make a vinaigrette, such as my
Lemon Vinaigrette with Garlic and Anchovy
and use that here.
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Two important points for sautéing and pan-roasting fish: (1) make sure your pan is very hot and (2) once you add the fish to the pan, leave it alone! The fish will develop a nice crust and release perfectly when you go to flip the pieces.
10 ounces arugula
2 (8-ounce) skinless wild salmon fillets
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 cup pomegranate seeds
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1
Add the arugula to a large salad bowl. Season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper and cut each fillet into 5 even slices.
2
In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over high heat. When the oil slides easily across the pan and wisps of smoke come off the surface, add the salmon and cook, untouched, for 2 minutes. Flip the pieces and cook for 30 seconds on the other side.
3
Put the hot salmon pieces on top of the greens, cover the bowl with a plate or baking sheet, and set aside for 5 minutes to wilt the arugula.
4
Drop the pomegranate seeds into the bowl, along with the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, salt to taste, a good dose of black pepper, the lemon juice, and red onion. Using a fork, lightly break up the pieces of salmon into large flakes. Toss well to combine.
Shrimp and Chickpea Trifolati
SHRIMP AND
CHICKPEA TRIFOLATI
SERVES 4 TO 6
Trifolati
refers to the classic Italian method of sautéing with garlic, parsley, and olive oil. My love for the flavor-packed simplicity of trifolati runs deep. There’s a version with mushrooms in
Salt to Taste
, but I love it applied to shrimp and chickpeas for a fast, protein-loaded meal. You can get a ton of mileage out of this recipe: It works great with onions, carrots, cauliflower, zucchini, scallops, and thin pieces of beef or chicken. The key to trifolati is finely chopping the parsley, garlic, and lemon zest together on the cutting board until they become one. The resulting mixture is so much greater than the sum of its parts.
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There are a few variations on the basic trifolati mixture that are worth trying. In step 2, try adding red pepper flakes or minced peperoncini along with the parsley and garlic.
1 pound (21/25) shrimp, peeled and deveined (leave the tails on)
1 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 large garlic cloves
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, plus a squeeze more for serving
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1
Rinse the shrimp and pat dry with paper towels.
2
Ball the parsley in your fist and press it onto a cutting board. Run your knife several times through the ball to roughly chop the leaves. Cut the garlic cloves in half across the equator, smash each half with the flat side of your knife, and roughly chop them. Put the garlic and lemon zest on top of the pile of parsley and finely chop them together. The mixture should yield about ½ cup of trifolati.
3
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat. Once wisps of smoke come off the pan, add the shrimp in a single layer. Season with salt and pepper, and cook without touching the shrimp for 2 minutes. Add the trifolati and toss to coat the shrimp. Add the chickpeas and lemon juice and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 3 minutes more, allowing the flavors to combine and everything to become evenly coated with the trifolati. Pour into a serving bowl and top with a squeeze of lemon juice and a drizzle of olive oil.
Halibut Livornese
HALIBUT LIVORNESE
SERVES 4
For Italian seafood inspiration, I often look to the city of Livorno on the Tuscan coast where fish dishes prepared
alla Livornese
contain tomatoes, olives, and capers. One of the most delicious and easiest of these preparations is made with fresh white fish—usually whatever the catch of the day is. Baking the fish while embedded in the rich sauce infuses it with flavor and keeps it moist. Any fresh, firm-fleshed white fish takes well to this approach, including striped bass, monkfish, tilapia, and cod. Keep in mind that the baking time may vary depending on the type and thickness of fish you use.
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4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
⅓ cup minced yellow onion
⅓ cup minced fennel
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, drained and chopped
⅓ cup pitted black olives (I like Taggiasca or niçoise)
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
4 (5- to 6-ounce) halibut fillets
1
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2
In a large ovenproof skillet combine the olive oil, onion, fennel, garlic, 1 tablespoon of the basil, and a pinch of salt, then turn the heat to medium-high. Cook for 5 minutes, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened and become translucent, about 3 minutes.
3
Add the tomatoes, olives, and capers and increase the heat to high. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (The olives and capers add a good amount of salt, so start with a little and taste as you go.) Cook for 3 minutes, breaking up the tomatoes with a wooden spoon. Reduce the heat to medium-high and continue to lightly cook until the sauce has slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.
4
Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons basil. Lightly season the halibut fillets on both sides with salt and pepper. Nestle them into the sauce, spooning some sauce over the top of each one until they’re mostly submerged. After 1 minute, transfer the pan to the oven and bake until the fish flakes apart with a fork or gives easily when lightly squeezed, about 10 minutes. Plate the fillets and spoon the sauce over each one.
POACHED
BLACK BASS AND
CLAMS WITH
SPRING VEGETABLES AND MINT
SERVES 4
In this low-hassle, single-pan meal, black bass fillets gently cook in a shallow pool of clam-and-wine-infused broth that’s so aromatic, you’re compelled to stick your face in the bowl, eyes closed, and breathe it in. Asparagus, scallions, and three kinds of peas bring crunch and vibrant freshness, and ginger adds a subtle kick. Even though poaching gives you more leeway than roasting or grilling, you can still overcook the fish if the poaching liquid is boiling, so keep it at a low simmer for gentle cooking.
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1 bunch asparagus
4 (6-ounce) skin-on black sea bass fillets
1 dozen littleneck clams
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
½-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1 bunch scallions, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced
½ cup halved snow peas, stem ends and strings removed
½ cup halved sugar snap peas, stem ends and strings removed
½ cup frozen peas
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
¼ cup torn fresh mint leaves
1
Trim the asparagus by snipping off the tough, woody ends.
2
With a sharp knife, score the skin of each fillet, making three diagonal slashes about 1 inch apart. Scrub any sand and grit off the clams, then soak them in a bowl of cold water for 20 minutes.
3
In a large, shallow pan, combine the olive oil, garlic, ginger, and scallions, then turn the heat to high. Once the oil sizzles, add the asparagus, snow peas, sugar snaps, frozen peas, and a big pinch of salt and stir to coat with the oil. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook, stirring every 3 minutes, until the vegetables are soft, but not browned, about 9 minutes.
4
Drain and rinse the clams and add them to the pan. Add the wine, vinegar, and ¼ cup water. Cover, increase the heat to medium-high, and cook until the clams open, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low.
5
Lightly season both sides of the fillets with salt and pepper and nestle them in a single layer among the vegetables and clams. The liquid should be just below an active simmer. Cover and poach the fish for 5 minutes. The fish is done when it’s opaque and tender when you pierce in the thickest part. Stir in the mint leaves and taste the broth, adding salt or pepper, if needed.
6
To serve, place a fillet and 3 clams in each bowl and ladle the vegetables and broth over.