A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great (22 page)
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Authors: Marco Canora,Tammy Walker
BOOK: A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great
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Brown Rice Risotto with Mushrooms, Cabbage, and Thyme
BROWN RICE RISOTTO WITH MUSHROOMS, CABBAGE, AND THYME
SERVES 6 TO 8
SERVES 6 TO 8
When I had to slow down the parade of high-GI, simple carbohydrates I was eating, risotto is one of the dishes where I had to take a long, hard look. Risotto, along with pasta, is my soul food. I dedicated a big chunk of
Salt to Taste
to risotto, and there’s no way it’s ever coming out of my playbook. After applying the risotto technique to several whole grains, I found sweet brown rice had the best results. It has a sticky texture that gives you the same magical creaminess as Arborio rice, so you don’t feel like you’re settling for a second-rate version—you’ll be psyched to have leftovers.
▪
Salt to Taste
to risotto, and there’s no way it’s ever coming out of my playbook. After applying the risotto technique to several whole grains, I found sweet brown rice had the best results. It has a sticky texture that gives you the same magical creaminess as Arborio rice, so you don’t feel like you’re settling for a second-rate version—you’ll be psyched to have leftovers.
▪
Other whole grains that take well to a risotto-style preparation are
black rice
, farro, and barley.
black rice
, farro, and barley.
You could use regular green cabbage here, but I like how well the tender, crinkly ridges of savoy cabbage capture the creamy sauce of the risotto.
Risotto does not require constant stirring throughout the entire process. It’s not until the moment when you’re adding small increments of broth that it requires frequent stirring.
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish
1 (10-ounce) package cremini mushrooms, sliced (about 3 cups)
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 head savoy cabbage, cut into ½-inch pieces (about 3 cups)
2½ cups mushroom broth
2½ cups vegetable broth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 yellow onion, diced
2 cups sweet brown rice
1 cup dry white wine
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1
In a large high-sided skillet heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over high heat. Add the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook until the liquid released from the mushrooms is gone, 5 to 7 minutes. Using a silicone spatula, transfer the mushrooms to a bowl and scrape the bottom of the pan to remove and save all the flavorful bits.
In a large high-sided skillet heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over high heat. Add the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook until the liquid released from the mushrooms is gone, 5 to 7 minutes. Using a silicone spatula, transfer the mushrooms to a bowl and scrape the bottom of the pan to remove and save all the flavorful bits.
2
While the pan is still hot, return it to the burner and add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the chopped cabbage and season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook until the cabbage is wilted and slightly browned, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.
While the pan is still hot, return it to the burner and add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the chopped cabbage and season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook until the cabbage is wilted and slightly browned, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.
3
Pour the mushroom and vegetable broths into a saucepan. Bring it to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to a simmer.
Pour the mushroom and vegetable broths into a saucepan. Bring it to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to a simmer.
4
In a large high-sided skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften, about 5 minutes.
In a large high-sided skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften, about 5 minutes.
5
Turn the heat to high and add the rice. Stir with a wooden spoon, coating the rice thoroughly with the onion, butter, and oil until the rice is crackling, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine. Let it bubble, stirring frequently, until the rice absorbs the wine, about 1 minute.
Turn the heat to high and add the rice. Stir with a wooden spoon, coating the rice thoroughly with the onion, butter, and oil until the rice is crackling, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine. Let it bubble, stirring frequently, until the rice absorbs the wine, about 1 minute.
6
Add just enough of the warm broth to cover the rice,
about 2 cups. Reduce the heat to medium-high and stir occasionally until the rice is almost dry, about 10 minutes. Add just enough broth to cover the rice and stir every couple of minutes, until the broth is incorporated and the rice is almost dry, about 10 minutes.
Add just enough of the warm broth to cover the rice,
about 2 cups. Reduce the heat to medium-high and stir occasionally until the rice is almost dry, about 10 minutes. Add just enough broth to cover the rice and stir every couple of minutes, until the broth is incorporated and the rice is almost dry, about 10 minutes.
7
Stirring more frequently now, continue adding warm broth to cover the rice, about ½ cup at a time, until its absorbed, every 4 to 5 minutes for 10 minutes.
Stirring more frequently now, continue adding warm broth to cover the rice, about ½ cup at a time, until its absorbed, every 4 to 5 minutes for 10 minutes.
8
Reduce the heat and add the cabbage, mushrooms, and about ¼ cup broth. Simmer, stirring constantly, adding ¼-cup increments of broth as needed until the rice is just tender and the risotto is a little runny (since the rice will continue to absorb moisture). Take the pan off the heat.
Reduce the heat and add the cabbage, mushrooms, and about ¼ cup broth. Simmer, stirring constantly, adding ¼-cup increments of broth as needed until the rice is just tender and the risotto is a little runny (since the rice will continue to absorb moisture). Take the pan off the heat.
9
Add the Parmesan, the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, the thyme, and salt and pepper to taste, stirring to incorporate. Taste and adjust seasoning, if needed. To serve, ladle the risotto into bowls and top each serving with more freshly grated Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil.
Add the Parmesan, the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, the thyme, and salt and pepper to taste, stirring to incorporate. Taste and adjust seasoning, if needed. To serve, ladle the risotto into bowls and top each serving with more freshly grated Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil.
Whole Wheat Rigatoni with Porcini Mushrooms and Baby Spinach
WHOLE WHEAT RIGATONI WITH
PORCINI MUSHROOMS AND BABY SPINACH
SERVES 4 TO 6
PORCINI MUSHROOMS AND BABY SPINACH
SERVES 4 TO 6
My pasta habit was a major influence in my health going off the rails. While it’s still one of my biggest indulgences, I’m a more conscious eater now, so my portion size is smaller, and I occasionally swap out the simple carbs of regular white pasta for the complex carbs in whole wheat pasta. This dish is adapted from
pizzoccheri
, a Northern Italian vegetarian pasta that I make in the winter at Hearth. Readily available whole wheat pasta is an excellent substitution for the buckwheat pasta of the traditional version, and it complements the hearty flavor of mushrooms.
▪
pizzoccheri
, a Northern Italian vegetarian pasta that I make in the winter at Hearth. Readily available whole wheat pasta is an excellent substitution for the buckwheat pasta of the traditional version, and it complements the hearty flavor of mushrooms.
▪
For a gluten-free pasta, try those made of a blend of quinoa and corn flours. I was surprised by how similar they are to regular semolina pasta in taste, color, and texture. Gluten-free pasta cooks quickly, so start tasting it before you think it’s done.
The key step in any pasta dish is moving the pasta from its cooking water to the pan of sauce before the pasta is al dente, so it finishes cooking in the sauce. The pasta absorbs more flavor and the starch it releases helps the sauce to cling to the pasta.
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 white onion, minced (about 1 cup)
3 cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin
1½ tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
1½ tablespoons chopped fresh sage
3 cups baby spinach
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound whole wheat rigatoni pasta
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
¼ cup freshly shredded Fontina cheese
1
In a bowl, soak the dried porcinis in 1½ cups very hot water for 10 minutes. Strain them, reserving the soaking liquid, and finely chop them.
In a bowl, soak the dried porcinis in 1½ cups very hot water for 10 minutes. Strain them, reserving the soaking liquid, and finely chop them.
2
In a large high-sided skillet, combine the olive oil, onion, garlic, thyme, and sage, then turn the heat to high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped porcinis, spinach, and a couple pinches of salt and pepper and stir well to coat the vegetables with the oil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in the reserved porcini soaking liquid and stir. When it comes to a boil, turn off the heat.
In a large high-sided skillet, combine the olive oil, onion, garlic, thyme, and sage, then turn the heat to high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped porcinis, spinach, and a couple pinches of salt and pepper and stir well to coat the vegetables with the oil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in the reserved porcini soaking liquid and stir. When it comes to a boil, turn off the heat.
3
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s tender, but not quite al dente. Meanwhile, bring the skillet of vegetables back up to medium heat.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s tender, but not quite al dente. Meanwhile, bring the skillet of vegetables back up to medium heat.
4
Using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the pasta from the boiling water to the sauce in the skillet. Toss well and cook until the pasta absorbs all the liquid. If the mixture looks dry, add 2 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water. The pasta should glisten, but water shouldn’t be accumulating on the bottom of the pan.
Using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the pasta from the boiling water to the sauce in the skillet. Toss well and cook until the pasta absorbs all the liquid. If the mixture looks dry, add 2 tablespoons of the pasta cooking water. The pasta should glisten, but water shouldn’t be accumulating on the bottom of the pan.
5
Add the butter and 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan and toss. If needed, add another tablespoon of pasta water. Remove the pan from the heat. To finish, sprinkle with the Fontina and the remaining 1 tablespoon Parmesan.
Add the butter and 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan and toss. If needed, add another tablespoon of pasta water. Remove the pan from the heat. To finish, sprinkle with the Fontina and the remaining 1 tablespoon Parmesan.
Whole Wheat Orecchiette with Peas and Onions
WHOLE WHEAT ORECCHIETTE WITH PEAS AND
ONIONS
SERVES 4 TO 6
ONIONS
SERVES 4 TO 6
You can never have too many quick-fix pantry meals in your arsenal, and this pasta proves that simple can be stellar. In a few ways, this is
cacio e pepe
, the classic Roman pasta with cheese and pepper, with the addition of peas and onions. The cheeses, good-quality butter, a generous amount of black pepper, and starchy pasta water meet up to form a creamy sauce that coats the vegetables and pasta. (As we know now, it’s the refined grains in regular pasta that cause problems, not the saturated fat, so don’t get anxious about the cheese and butter here!) Short pastas like orecchiette, small tubes, shells, and bow ties work best—something the peas and sauce can get lodged into.
▪
cacio e pepe
, the classic Roman pasta with cheese and pepper, with the addition of peas and onions. The cheeses, good-quality butter, a generous amount of black pepper, and starchy pasta water meet up to form a creamy sauce that coats the vegetables and pasta. (As we know now, it’s the refined grains in regular pasta that cause problems, not the saturated fat, so don’t get anxious about the cheese and butter here!) Short pastas like orecchiette, small tubes, shells, and bow ties work best—something the peas and sauce can get lodged into.
▪
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium yellow onion, halved from root to tip and thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups frozen peas, thawed
1 pound whole wheat orecchiette pasta
¼ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for serving
¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1
In a large high-sided skillet, combine the olive oil, 2 tablespoons of the butter, the onion, and garlic. Throw in a couple of pinches of salt and pepper and cook over high heat for 3 minutes. If the onion begins to brown, bring down the heat a bit. Add the peas and toss to thoroughly coat them in the fat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low to stew the peas and onions for 5 minutes, then turn off the heat.
In a large high-sided skillet, combine the olive oil, 2 tablespoons of the butter, the onion, and garlic. Throw in a couple of pinches of salt and pepper and cook over high heat for 3 minutes. If the onion begins to brown, bring down the heat a bit. Add the peas and toss to thoroughly coat them in the fat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low to stew the peas and onions for 5 minutes, then turn off the heat.
2
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s tender, but not quite al dente. Meanwhile, turn the heat under the peas and onions to high.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s tender, but not quite al dente. Meanwhile, turn the heat under the peas and onions to high.
3
Using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, lift the pasta out of the boiling water and add it to the skillet with the sauce. Add ¼ cup of the pasta water and toss. Add the Pecorino, Parmesan, the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and a generous amount of black pepper. Add ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons more of the pasta water and salt to taste. Continue cooking, tossing frequently, until there’s no liquid pooling at the bottom and the pasta has a light coating of cheese and butter. Top each serving with more freshly grated Pecorino and black pepper.
Using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, lift the pasta out of the boiling water and add it to the skillet with the sauce. Add ¼ cup of the pasta water and toss. Add the Pecorino, Parmesan, the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and a generous amount of black pepper. Add ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons more of the pasta water and salt to taste. Continue cooking, tossing frequently, until there’s no liquid pooling at the bottom and the pasta has a light coating of cheese and butter. Top each serving with more freshly grated Pecorino and black pepper.
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