A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great (17 page)
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Authors: Marco Canora,Tammy Walker
BOOK: A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great
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FIBER
The Benefits of Roughing It
Until a few years ago, the only time fiber ever crossed my mind was catching a rerun of the classic
Saturday Night Live
commercial for “Colon Blow,” a hilarious spoof of high-fiber, sticks-and-twigs-style cereals (if you’ve never seen this gem, take two minutes to watch it online). Most of us associate fiber with good digestion, but have no clue why it’s useful beyond that. I assumed fiber would only be a concern when I was an old man in need of Colon Blow cereal, prunes, and Metamucil.
Saturday Night Live
commercial for “Colon Blow,” a hilarious spoof of high-fiber, sticks-and-twigs-style cereals (if you’ve never seen this gem, take two minutes to watch it online). Most of us associate fiber with good digestion, but have no clue why it’s useful beyond that. I assumed fiber would only be a concern when I was an old man in need of Colon Blow cereal, prunes, and Metamucil.
But fiber’s importance became clear to me when I realized that filling up on super delicious, high-fiber foods was a much easier approach to changing my diet than calorie counting and constant hunger. Foods with fiber stabilize blood sugar, digest more slowly, and take up more space in your stomach, so you feel fuller longer. It’s tough to gorge on fiber-rich foods (even for people like me who suck at self-restraint), so fiber became my insurance against overeating. To feel satisfied eating low-fiber white bread, sliced deli meat, and cookies, I had to rely on hefty quantities, but I rarely feel the need to double-down on bowls of
Warm Lentil Salad
or
Cranberry Bean Soup with Farro
because their combination of great flavor and high fiber is so gratifying.
Warm Lentil Salad
or
Cranberry Bean Soup with Farro
because their combination of great flavor and high fiber is so gratifying.
Beans are the most naturally rich sources of fiber, but all plant foods have it: vegetables, fruits, whole grains, nuts, and seeds. Fiber is an indigestible carbohydrate that comes in two forms—soluble and insoluble. Insoluble fiber helps to haul out the trash and toxins. It absorbs liquid in your stomach, so it expands and keeps things moving through your digestive tract. Without enough of it, you’d have a seriously uncomfortable pile-up happening. Whole grains, especially
intact grains
, leafy greens, and the outer skins of fruits and vegetables are good sources of insoluble fiber (I never peel foods like sweet potatoes or apples for this reason).
intact grains
, leafy greens, and the outer skins of fruits and vegetables are good sources of insoluble fiber (I never peel foods like sweet potatoes or apples for this reason).
Soluble fiber attracts water in your stomach, forming a gel that binds with food, slowing the speed with which it empties from your stomach—this fills you up and delays the absorption of sugar, keeping blood sugar levels steady. You’ve heard that eating a whole apple is better than drinking the juice? It’s because the soluble
fiber in the apple’s pulp prevents the blood sugar spike and crash that happens if you just have the sugary juice on its own. Foods with soluble fiber—including beans, lentils, oatmeal, and citrus fruits—are also known for reducing LDL (bad) cholesterol levels and lowering chances of a heart attack.
fiber in the apple’s pulp prevents the blood sugar spike and crash that happens if you just have the sugary juice on its own. Foods with soluble fiber—including beans, lentils, oatmeal, and citrus fruits—are also known for reducing LDL (bad) cholesterol levels and lowering chances of a heart attack.
Don’t worry about choosing a specific type of fiber—most foods that naturally contain it have both insoluble and soluble. Just be sure you’re getting fiber from real, whole foods. Don’t rely on packaged foods that advertise “fiber enriched”—this type of added fiber won’t squash hunger or cravings, and the processed stuff inevitably comes with questionable ingredients and fewer nutrients than whole foods.
A word to the wise—if beans and other high-fiber foods aren’t a regular part of your meals, don’t immediately start with big servings of them (unless you’re prepared for cramps and frequent trips to the bathroom). Start small, add them in slowly, and drink a ton of water so your body can get used to the increase in fiber. I worked my way up, adding chia seeds to shakes, choosing intact whole grains like quinoa and sweet brown rice instead of white rice, and working more of my favorite classic bean dishes like
Ribollita
and
Ucceletto Beans
into my repertoire. Eating with high-fiber foods in mind takes away the need to think about what foods are “good” or “bad”—anything naturally high in fiber gets a green light. It’s that simple.
Ribollita
and
Ucceletto Beans
into my repertoire. Eating with high-fiber foods in mind takes away the need to think about what foods are “good” or “bad”—anything naturally high in fiber gets a green light. It’s that simple.
UCCELETTO BEANS
SERVES 6
SERVES 6
My annual cooking class at Montecastelli in Italy always kicks off with a quintessential Tuscan feast, and without fail, the knockout dish is
ucceletto
beans with pork sausage. To cook beans
ucceletto
-style is to cook them “in the manner of little birds.” It’s a reference to sage, rosemary, tomato, and garlic—the ingredients traditionally used to cook squab and quail in Italy. These beans are simple, homey, and pretty glorious. You can easily make this into a one-pan meal by browning a few links of sausage and adding the
ucceletto
beans (cooked with all the juice from the can of tomatoes) to the pan to stew with the sausages.
▪
ucceletto
beans with pork sausage. To cook beans
ucceletto
-style is to cook them “in the manner of little birds.” It’s a reference to sage, rosemary, tomato, and garlic—the ingredients traditionally used to cook squab and quail in Italy. These beans are simple, homey, and pretty glorious. You can easily make this into a one-pan meal by browning a few links of sausage and adding the
ucceletto
beans (cooked with all the juice from the can of tomatoes) to the pan to stew with the sausages.
▪
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
4 garlic cloves, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced (about 1 packed tablespoon)
1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, roughly chopped, half the juice from the can reserved
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
4 cups
cooked cannellini beans
, or 2½ (15-ounce) cans cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
cooked cannellini beans
, or 2½ (15-ounce) cans cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
¼ cup of bean cooking liquid or water
1
In a cold, large high-sided skillet, combine the olive oil and garlic, then turn the heat to high. As soon as the garlic shows the slightest tinge of brown, about 2 minutes in, stir in the tomatoes and the reserved juice. Add a pinch of salt and cook for 5 minutes to concentrate the flavors and reduce the liquid. Add the sage, rosemary, and a generous amount of pepper and cook for 1 minute.
In a cold, large high-sided skillet, combine the olive oil and garlic, then turn the heat to high. As soon as the garlic shows the slightest tinge of brown, about 2 minutes in, stir in the tomatoes and the reserved juice. Add a pinch of salt and cook for 5 minutes to concentrate the flavors and reduce the liquid. Add the sage, rosemary, and a generous amount of pepper and cook for 1 minute.
2
Add the beans and their cooking liquid (or ¼ cup water, if using canned beans). Cook until there’s no liquid pooling on the bottom of the pan and the sauce coats and sticks to the beans, about 5 minutes. Serve warm, dressed with pepper and a drizzle of olive oil.
Add the beans and their cooking liquid (or ¼ cup water, if using canned beans). Cook until there’s no liquid pooling on the bottom of the pan and the sauce coats and sticks to the beans, about 5 minutes. Serve warm, dressed with pepper and a drizzle of olive oil.
BEANS
AND GREENS
SERVES 4 TO 6
AND GREENS
SERVES 4 TO 6
Due to the dish’s simplicity, value, and hearty goodness, virtually every culture I can think of has its own version of beans and greens. The version I know best is Italian-style escarole and cannellini beans, though I often use red kidney beans for their ability to hold their shape and absorb flavors really well. The key ingredients here are the ones you barely notice: Anchovies add the undeniable tastiness of
umami
and the starchy bean liquid helps to bring the beans and tender greens together. Aside from being a speedy dish to put together, it easily adapts to whatever beans and hardy greens you have on hand. Cannellini beans, chickpeas, kale, mustard greens, and dandelion greens have all found their way into this—with great results.
▪
umami
and the starchy bean liquid helps to bring the beans and tender greens together. Aside from being a speedy dish to put together, it easily adapts to whatever beans and hardy greens you have on hand. Cannellini beans, chickpeas, kale, mustard greens, and dandelion greens have all found their way into this—with great results.
▪
2 olive oil–packed anchovy fillets
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 large head escarole, core discarded, leaves washed and coarsely chopped
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups
cooked red kidney beans
, or 1½ (15-ounce) cans red kidney beans, rinsed and drained
cooked red kidney beans
, or 1½ (15-ounce) cans red kidney beans, rinsed and drained
¼ cup of bean cooking liquid or water
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving
1
Mince the anchovies and mash into a smooth paste with the flat side of a large heavy knife. Add it to a large skillet with the olive oil, garlic, and pepper flakes. Turn the heat to medium and cook until the anchovy melts into the oil and the garlic just begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the escarole, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Increase the heat to medium-high. Using tongs, toss the greens to coat them in the oil. Cook until the escarole is wilted and has released a bit of liquid in the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes.
Mince the anchovies and mash into a smooth paste with the flat side of a large heavy knife. Add it to a large skillet with the olive oil, garlic, and pepper flakes. Turn the heat to medium and cook until the anchovy melts into the oil and the garlic just begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the escarole, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Increase the heat to medium-high. Using tongs, toss the greens to coat them in the oil. Cook until the escarole is wilted and has released a bit of liquid in the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes.
2
Add the kidney beans and their cooking liquid (or water, if using canned beans) and toss. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the greens are tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Top each serving with black pepper and freshly grated Parmesan.
Add the kidney beans and their cooking liquid (or water, if using canned beans) and toss. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the greens are tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Top each serving with black pepper and freshly grated Parmesan.
RIBOLLITA
SERVES 8
SERVES 8
Another of Hearth’s greatest hits and my all-time favorite soup, ribollita is among the first recipes I earmarked for this book. I’ve waxed poetic about this Tuscan soup for years, but I’ve recently come to appreciate it as an ideal good food day meal. Ribollita is delicious, hearty perfection—a well-balanced meal of tender vegetables and plump cannellini beans in a thick, hearty soup. It’s traditionally made with a lot of bread, but I swap in extra cannellini beans for more heft. I want to take a swan dive into it every time its aroma fills the kitchen. You don’t want to hurry this soup along. Stewing the cabbage and kale in their own juices for 20 minutes is a crucial step to developing the deep flavor of good ribollita. You’ll be grateful to have leftovers, so make a big pot—it’s even better the next day.
▪
▪
To get the Tuscan kale to disperse throughout the soup, it needs to be chopped into very small pieces. You can chop it by hand, but I go an easier route by freezing the bunches of kale overnight. A night in the freezer makes the kale brittle, so you can crumble the leaves into a million pieces. Then just discard the thick center ribs.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 cups diced yellow onions
3 cups diced carrots
3 cups diced celery
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 head savoy cabbage, chopped (about 4 cups)
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon tomato paste
4 bunches Tuscan kale, finely chopped or crumbled (about 8 cups; see note)
10 cups
Chicken Broth
or water
Chicken Broth
or water
5 cups
cooked cannellini beans
, or 3½ (15-ounce) cans cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
cooked cannellini beans
, or 3½ (15-ounce) cans cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving
Fresh thyme leaves, for serving
1
In a very large soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions, carrots, celery, and a pinch of salt, and stir to coat the vegetables with the oil. Cover and cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften but have not developed any browning, about 10 minutes.
In a very large soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions, carrots, celery, and a pinch of salt, and stir to coat the vegetables with the oil. Cover and cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften but have not developed any browning, about 10 minutes.
2
Stir in the savoy cabbage, cover, and cook until it begins to wilt, about 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste, stirring to combine it with the vegetables. Reduce the heat to low, add the kale, and stir well. Cover the pot and stew the vegetables until they’re tender, about 20 minutes. Add the broth or water, increase the heat, and bring the soup to a boil.
Stir in the savoy cabbage, cover, and cook until it begins to wilt, about 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste, stirring to combine it with the vegetables. Reduce the heat to low, add the kale, and stir well. Cover the pot and stew the vegetables until they’re tender, about 20 minutes. Add the broth or water, increase the heat, and bring the soup to a boil.
3
While the soup is coming to a boil, puree 3 cups of the beans in a blender or food processor, adding a little water if necessary. Whisk the pureed beans into the boiling soup. Add the remaining 2 cups of whole beans and bring the soup back to a boil. Reduce the heat and gently simmer uncovered for about 30 minutes to allow the flavors to come together.
While the soup is coming to a boil, puree 3 cups of the beans in a blender or food processor, adding a little water if necessary. Whisk the pureed beans into the boiling soup. Add the remaining 2 cups of whole beans and bring the soup back to a boil. Reduce the heat and gently simmer uncovered for about 30 minutes to allow the flavors to come together.
4
Taste and season with salt and lots of pepper. Serve immediately with freshly grated Parmesan and thyme. Cool and refrigerate or freeze any leftovers.
Taste and season with salt and lots of pepper. Serve immediately with freshly grated Parmesan and thyme. Cool and refrigerate or freeze any leftovers.
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