Thanksgiving 101 (8 page)

What tools are essential for roasting the perfect turkey?

You’ll need a high-quality roasting pan, a roasting rack, a meat thermometer, an oven thermometer, and a bulb baster.

A
high-quality roasting pan
makes all the difference in the world. A heavy, dark metal pan allows the drippings to brown beautifully, and turns gravy making into a snap. Buy the best roasting pan you can afford. Some of them may seem expensive, but you will probably never need to buy another one again. My favorite roasting pan measures 18 × 14 × 3 inches. Whether you choose a nonstick pan or not is a matter of personal choice. The dark surface of a nonstick pan absorbs heat and creates especially dark drippings, an advantage when it comes time to make the gravy. On the other hand, heavy pans with stainless steel interiors are excellent, and the smooth surface cleans easily. A turkey roasting pan should be fairly shallow so the air can circulate around the bird and promote browning. Choose the largest pan that fits your oven and
accommodates the size turkey you roast most often. (I’ve heard many a tale about the turkey that wouldn’t fit into the pan, or the pan that wouldn’t fit into the oven.)

Old-fashioned speckled blue enamel turkey roasters only do a fair job. Those grooves in the bottom of the pan don’t serve much purpose and are an obstacle at gravy-making time. The sides are too high and block the heat that makes for good browning. If you have a covered turkey roaster, don’t use the lid—uncovered turkeys brown best.

I am no fan of disposable aluminum foil roasting pans. They buckle under the weight of most turkeys, and are almost impossible to make gravy in. The bright metal allows the oven heat to bounce off the pan’s surface and inhibits the browning of both the turkey and the drippings. Roast a turkey in an aluminum foil pan and you are guaranteed wimpy-looking drippings that will make bland, beige gravy that needs to be colored with a gravy booster. Aluminum foil pans are too high to allow for proper heat and air distribution. Don’t tell me that you prefer them to a good roasting pan because you only do a turkey once a year! Once you have a beautiful heavy pan, you’ll find lots of uses for it all year long. If you
absolutely
have to use an aluminum foil pan, at least put it on a large baking sheet to make it easier to take in and out of the oven. Better yet, buy two and insert one inside of the other for increased stability. (You may even be able to pull off making gravy in a double-thick aluminum pan.)

Turkey should always be baked on a
roasting rack
. If the turkey is placed on the bottom of the pan, it can stick. Also, the back of the turkey simmers in the juices, so when you go to lift the bird out of the pan, the wings usually fall off (after all, they’ve been stewing in liquid for hours). Even though the turkey can be roasted on a flat rack, an adjustable roasting rack is more versatile, as it can be folded up into a V shape for cooking cylinder-shaped meat roasts, too. The racks that are permanently fixed in a wide, flat U shape are also good.

The best way to tell when any poultry or meat is done is with a
meat thermometer
. An old-fashioned meat thermometer is inserted into the poultry before it is put into the oven, and stays there throughout roasting. Its thick stem can make a large hole in the meat that releases juices. Most cooks prefer instant-read thermometers, which have thin stems and are used only when actually checking the temperature. In fact, never leave an instant-read thermometer in the oven or the plastic top will melt. My favorite is the
probe-style thermometer
, which is attached to a monitor outside the stove so you can easily check the progress without opening the oven door. You can also set the timer to sound when the desired internal temperature is reached, and some models have portable alarms so you don’t even have to be in the kitchen to hear the beep.
Pop-up thermometers
are good indicators of doneness, but are not always reliable. It’s not that they don’t work, but sometimes they get glued shut by the basting juices. Always back up the pop-up with a reliable meat thermometer, and do not count on the pop-up alone.

An
oven thermometer
is the only way to determine your oven’s true temperature. A turkey is one of the largest things that you will ever cook in the oven, and a few degrees’ discrepancy can make a big difference. Never trust the thermostat dial. I have gotten in the habit of bringing my own oven thermometer with me when I cook at a friend’s house, because every oven is off to some degree. Alcohol-filled glass thermometers are the most accurate, but spring thermometers are less expensive and work well, too.

Basting helps brown the bird, sealing the
skin and holding in juices. A
bulb baster
makes the job easy. Basters with metal syringes aren’t worth the money, as the fat lubricates the metal and the rubber bulb slides off. The one I like best is made of plastic with a flat rubber bulb that allows the baster to stand straight up on the counter.

Any other goodies that I can pick up at the kitchenware store?

I use a
bamboo skewer
or a
thin metal skewer
to close the neck cavity. Just in case you have to tie the drumsticks together, get a ball of
cotton kitchen twine
. Many cooks like
turkey lifters
, which make it easier to remove the turkey from the pan, but take care to buy ones that won’t tear the crisp turkey skin. You will need a
serving platter
big enough to hold the bird. And if you don’t have a good
carving set
, with a long, thin-bladed, sharp knife and a meat fork, now’s the time to get one.

How do I get the bird ready for roasting?

Take the bird out of its plastic wrapper and rinse it well, inside and out, under a thin stream of cold running water. This is not actually washing the bird, just refreshing it, and this step is optional. If you choose to rinse the bird, to avoid cross-contamination, take care not to splash any of the water on your kitchen counter. Place the bird onto a work surface and pat it completely dry with paper towels. Remove the neck from the body cavity, and
don’t forget the package of giblets in the neck
! But if you ever do leave them in, don’t worry, as they are packed in oven-safe materials and the cooked giblets won’t hurt anyone. Pull out the lumps of pale yellow fat on either side of the tail area. Reserve the fat: It can be tossed into the roasting pan to increase the amount of drippings or added to the stockpot.

After preparing the bird, be sure to wash the cutting board, your hands, and any utensils well with soap and hot water.

What about that metal clip in the tail area?

Some poultry producers provide a metal or plastic clip, called a “hock lock,” which secures the drumsticks in place. Don’t remove it! It will save you the trouble of having to tie the drumsticks together with kitchen string. Sometimes, the producers cut a strap of skin near the end of the body cavity, which also acts to hold the drumsticks.

Cooking the Turkey

Sometimes my turkey breast turns out dry. Why?

Dry turkey is caused by overcooking. Admittedly, roasting a whole turkey is problematic. When was the last time you roasted
anything
that was 25 pounds? The main problem is the turkey itself. The white meat is done to perfection at 170°F, and above that temperature it begins to dry out and get stringy. On the other hand, the dark meat isn’t tender until 180°F. It disturbs me to see recipes that suggest cooking the turkey to only 170°F. Granted, the white meat is cooked just right, but at that temperature the dark meat still looks pink and rare and hasn’t developed a roasted flavor. Although the meat is safe to eat, it looks and tastes undercooked. Luckily, there are ways to “trick” the white meat into staying moist for the extra time it takes for the dark meat to cook that extra 10 degrees.

There are so many ways to roast a bird, it’s hard to decide which is the best method for me. What are your favorites?

My Favorite Method.
The Perfect Roast Turkey with Best-Ever Gravy is my adaptation of the traditional method that uses a moderately low oven temperature of 325°F. Temperatures above that tend to shrink the turkey, and any temperature below 325°F is unsafe. My secret to avoiding dried-out meat? I tightly cover (not just tent) the breast area with aluminum foil, which traps the steam and keeps the breast moist. During the last hour of roasting, I remove the foil to allow the skin to brown.

Bottom Line.
This time-tested method doesn’t call for any special skills, and roasts a wonderful, juicy turkey with an old-fashioned flavor. It also makes a picture-perfect bird that looks like a Norman Rockwell magazine cover. The only drawback is that it takes time, but sometimes patience is its own reward.

High-Oven Method.
The turkey is roasted in a very hot oven, sealing the skin and holding in the juices. This method gives a richly colored, moist bird with a deep, roasted flavor in just a couple of hours. You’ll find it detailed in Oven-Blasted Turkey. Be sure your oven is impeccably clean before roasting, and be warned that it will certainly need to be cleaned afterward. You must use a heavy roasting pan and a fresh bird that hasn’t been injected with any moistening agents. The hot turkey must be turned from side to side to get it evenly roasted—this calls for an agile, strong cook. Also be aware that the drippings can be burned beyond repair, leaving you to make a sauce on the side.

Bottom Line.
The bird is delicious made this way and cooks in record time, but it’s a method for experienced cooks with self-cleaning ovens, lots of oven cleaner, or hired help.

Brine Method.
Proponents of the brine method (which is used to make the Herb-Brined Roast Turkey) report that soaking the turkey in salted water makes it juicier and better seasoned. However, the added moisture is not actually turkey juices, just salt water, so don’t be fooled. You must have a large receptacle to soak the bird and a place to keep it chilled overnight. Most people don’t have a refrigerator big enough to hold a huge stockpot. The most convenient place to brine turkey is in an ice chest. The brining does increase the moistness, but it also firms and seasons the flesh in a way that some people may not like.

Bottom Line.
If your goal is a juicy bird, this method is a worthwhile effort, once you surmount the logistical problems of chilling the soaking bird. Just be prepared for some guests who might not like the flavor and texture change of the “enhanced” turkey. My recipe for The Perfect Roast Turkey with Best-Ever Gravy produces such a moist bird that I find brining entirely extraneous.

Grilled Turkey.
Grilling is fast becoming the preferred method of Thanksgiving cooks who love to cook outdoors. Weather can be an issue, but such a little thing doesn’t deter dedicated grillmasters. Grilling gives a smoked-scented bird with a deep brown skin. This method (which is used in the recipe for Smoked, Cider-Basted Turkey) works best with birds no larger than 12 pounds. No one believes me when I say this, but please trust me. The drippings may be too smoky to make gravy, so plan to serve a sauce or salsa on the side.

Bottom Line.
If the weather is cooperating (while I have grilled in the snow, I don’t recommend it), and your family and friends enjoy nontraditional flavors, grill the bird.

Deep-fried Turkey.
A contender for the “What a great turkey, but…” award. A favorite of Cajun cooks (see Bayou Deep-fried Turkey), the turkey is deep-fried in only
45 minutes. The skin turns out golden and crispy, and the meat is deliciously juicy. If you have a 10-gallon stockpot with a deep-frying basket, a 125,000-BTU propane ring burner, a full tank of propane, and 5 gallons of cooking oil handy, this could be the bird for you. But only if you have nerves of steel and an old set of clothes that you are willing to get oil-splattered, and are willing to forgo the stuffing and gravy. The method works best with smaller birds, so don’t plan to feed a crowd.

Bottom Line.
I’m not saying this method isn’t good, I’m only saying it is more work than most of us are willing to do. And it can be very dangerous, so keep your wits about you. Note that the Underwriters Laboratories, which test and set standards for appliances, have declined to give their approval to any model of turkey fryer. If that doesn’t tell you something…

What are some of your least favorite methods for cooking turkey?

I am almost loath to mention these methods, because if your mom’s turkey is criticized, I’m asking for trouble. But remember that I cook turkeys all year long, not just one day a year. I have taken a good, hard, objective look at roasting turkeys, and I think it’s best to steer you away from potential disaster.

Upside-down Turkey.
Some cooks believe that roasting the bird upside down allows the juices to run into the breast and keep it moist. During the last hour of roasting, the bird is turned right side up. I remember the year that my friend Michelle and I tried this method. The person who gave us the instructions forgot to mention putting the bird on a rack, and when we went to turn the bird right side up, about half of the breast stuck to the pan. In subsequent, nonholiday kitchen tests, the turning always made for some kind of disaster (usually the skin tears around the drumsticks) and the bird ended up looking as if it had been in an accident. If you have ever tried to turn a hot, greasy 25-pound turkey right side up, especially after having downed a Bloody Mary, you know it is a job not to be taken lightly. There are easier ways to keep the breast moist.

Cheesecloth Turkey.
The oiled turkey is covered with cheesecloth dipped in melted butter. I have no idea what advantage it provides—could the cheesecloth act as a wick, drawing the juices over the breast? The cheesecloth is pulled off during the last hour of roasting, but mine always seems to stick to the skin. If you can discern any improvement of flavor or moisture, you are better than I am.