Thanksgiving 101 (3 page)

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Authors: Rick Rodgers

BOOK: Thanksgiving 101
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Shrimp Cocktail Dip

For years, my family’s Thanksgiving dinner began with a little glass of shrimp cocktail. Even though it was the supermarket variety, my brothers and I understood that shrimp cocktail was reserved for very classy occasions, and that serious eating was ahead. Now the shrimp cocktail is back, reestablishing itself on the menus of tony restaurants from coast to coast. This is shrimp cocktail for a crowd.

Makes 8 to 12 appetizer servings

Make Ahead: The cocktail sauce can be prepared up to 2 days ahead.

1 cup ketchup-style chili sauce, such as Heinz 57

1 medium celery rib with leaves, finely chopped

1 scallion, white and green parts, finely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon bottled horseradish

Hot red pepper sauce, to taste

8 ounces cooked, deveined, finely chopped shrimp

One 8-ounce package cream cheese, at room temperature

Crackers, baguette slices, or celery sticks, for serving

1.
In a medium bowl, mix the chili sauce, celery, scallion, parsley, lemon juice, horseradish, and hot pepper sauce. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours to allow the flavors to blend. (The cocktail sauce can be prepared up to 2 days ahead, covered, and refrigerated.)

2.
Reserve about ½ cup of the chopped shrimp. Stir the remaining shrimp into the cocktail sauce. Place the cream cheese on a serving platter, and pour the shrimp mixture over the top. Top with the reserved shrimp, and serve immediately with the crackers.

Hot Crab Salsa Dip

Here’s another update of an old favorite that my guests can’t get enough of. This recipe makes a large amount, but it always disappears. If your appetizer menu is long, the recipe is easily halved. It’s a natural for tortilla chips, but try it with fresh crudités like broccoli, cauliflower, sweet red pepper strips, and cherry tomatoes. There are a number of options to keep the dip warm. I use a mini–slow cooker, but fondue pots or electric warming plates also work. For the best flavor, use fresh crabmeat, not canned.

Makes about 12 appetizer servings

Make Ahead: The dip can be prepared up to

8 hours ahead.

1 cup chunky tomato salsa

Two 8-ounce packages cream cheese

½ cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 pound fresh lump crabmeat, picked over to remove shells and cartilage, and flaked

Hot red pepper sauce to taste

1
/3 cup fresh bread crumbs, preferably from day-old French or Italian bread

Tortilla chips and assorted fresh vegetables, for serving

1.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

1.
Drain the salsa in a wire sieve to remove excess liquid. Place the drained salsa in a bowl and add the cream cheese, mayonnaise, and Worcestershire sauce. Using a rubber spatula, work the ingredients until combined. Stir in the crabmeat. Season with the hot pepper sauce. Transfer to a round 1-quart baking dish. (The dip can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead, covered tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerated.)

1.
Sprinkle the bread crumbs over the dip. Bake until the dip is bubbling, about 30 minutes. Serve hot, with the tortilla chips and vegetables.

Savory Cheddar and Jalapeño Jelly Cookies

My friend Ruth Henderson owns The Silo, a kitchen shop, art gallery, and cooking school nestled in the gorgeous Litchfield Hills in Connecticut. (In fact, many of these recipes debuted at my annual Thanksgiving classes there.) Ruth often serves these delectable appetizer cookies at their gallery opening parties. The dough should be made in a food processor, but the butter and cheese mixture could be creamed by hand, if necessary, if you shred the cheese as finely as possible (use the smallest holes on a box grater, not the usual large holes). If you don’t have jalapeño jelly, use apple butter or your favorite chutney instead.

Makes about 4½ dozen

Make Ahead: The cookies can be baked up to 2 days ahead.

8 ounces (about 2½ cups) shredded extra-sharp Cheddar cheese

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup all-purpose flour

1
/3 cup jalapeño jelly, apple butter, or chopped chutney

1.
Place the cheese and butter in a food processor and pulse a few times to combine. Add the flour and process until the mixture forms a soft dough. Gather up the dough and divide into two flat disks. Wrap in wax paper and freeze until chilled, about 45 minutes.

2.
Position two racks in the center and top third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Line baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking pads. Place the jelly in a small plastic bag and force it into one corner. Snip off the corner of the bag to make a small hole. Set the bag of jelly aside.

3.
Using 1 teaspoon of dough for each, roll the dough into small balls. Place the balls 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheets. Bake for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven. Using the end of a wooden spoon or a ½-inch-wide dowel, poke an indentation in each cookie. Pipe the jelly from the bag into the indentations.

4.
Return to the oven and bake, switching the positions of the sheets from top to bottom halfway through baking, until the tops are very lightly browned, about 10 minutes (the cookies will continue to crisp as they cool). Transfer to wire cake racks and cool completely. (The cookies can be baked up to 2 days ahead. Place the cookies in an airtight container, separating the layers with wax paper, and store at room temperature.)

Potato Tortilla with Smoked Salmon

In America, tortilla means one thing, and it is made from corn and used in Mexican cooking. In Spain, however, a tortilla is a thick egg omelet that resembles the Italian frittata. Cut into golden squares, a tortilla can be the beginning of a perfect Thanksgiving bite, topped with sour cream and smoked salmon. When guests are arriving in the late morning, these give a brunchlike feel to the appetizer menu. The tortillas could also be garnished with black or red caviar, whatever type fits into the budget.

Makes about 48 squares, 8 to 12 appetizer servings

Make Ahead: The tortilla can be prepared up to 4 hours ahead. Top with the sour cream and salmon just before serving.

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ teaspoon salt

1
/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound (3 small) Russet or Idaho potatoes, peeled and sliced into
1
/8-inch-thick rounds

5 large eggs, at room temperature

Hot red pepper sauce, to taste

Approximately ½ cup sour cream

6 ounces smoked salmon, cut into 1-by ¼-inch strips

Minced chives or green tops of scallions, for garnish

1.
In a 9-inch nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium-low heat. In a small bowl, combine ¼ teaspoon of the salt and the pepper. In four batches, add the potatoes to the skillet, seasoning each layer with some of the salt and pepper mixture. Stir each addition well to coat with the oil and prevent sticking. Cook, stirring often, until the potatoes begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Cover and cook, stirring often, to keep the potatoes from sticking to each other, until the potatoes are just tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

2.
In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and the hot pepper sauce. Using a slotted spoon, stir the potato slices into the eggs, leaving any oil in the pan.

3.
Position the broiler rack 6 inches from the source of heat, and preheat the broiler. Reheat the skillet over medium-low heat. Pour in the egg mixture and spread out the potatoes to make an evenly thick cake. Using a rubber spatula, lift up the cooked part of the tortilla, and tilt the skillet so the uncooked eggs run underneath. Continue cooking, occasionally lifting the tortilla and tilting the skillet as described, until the top is almost set, 4 to 5 minutes.

4.
Broil the frittata until the top is puffed and lightly browned, about 1 minute. Place a round plate over the top of the skillet and invert the frittata onto the plate. Cool completely. (The frittata can be prepared up to 4 hours ahead, covered, and refrigerated. Return to room temperature before serving.)

5.
Cut the frittata into 1-inch squares (you will have a few odd-shaped trimmings that you may serve if you wish, or eat as the cook’s treat). Top each square with a small dab of sour cream, then a strip of salmon, curled into a decorative shape. Sprinkle with chives and serve.

Pork and Veal Pâté with Dried Cranberries

Pâté is the kind of indulgence that only seems to appear at special occasions. This is a favorite, scented with brandy and studded with sweet-sour cranberries. A pâté is a boon to the busy cook—it’s as easy to make as a meat loaf, homey and sophisticated at the same time. And, because it must be made a day or two ahead for the flavors to mellow, it allows one more thing to be checked off the prep list well ahead of time. Serve it with thin baguette slices or crackers, a crock of grainy mustard, and maybe some tiny pickles (cornichons) or pickled onions.

Makes 8 to 12 servings

Make Ahead: The pâté must be prepared at least 1 day ahead of serving; it can be refrigerated for up to 5 days.

½ cup dried cranberries

1
/3 cup Cognac or brandy

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

½ cup finely chopped shallots

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ cup fresh bread crumbs, prepared from crusty bread

1
/3 cup heavy cream

2 large eggs

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon dried rosemary

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound ground veal

1 pound ground pork

4 ounces smoked or boiled ham, sliced ¼ inch thick and cut into ¼-inch cubes

1.
Start the pâté at least 1 day before serving. In a small bowl, plump the cranberries in the Cognac for about 1 hour. (Or place in a small microwave-safe bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and microwave on High for 30 seconds. Stir and let stand for 10 minutes.)

2.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil an 8½ × 4½ × 2½-inch loaf pan.

3.
In a medium skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 2 minutes. Set aside.

4.
In a large bowl, mix the bread crumbs, heavy cream, eggs, parsley, salt, thyme, rosemary, allspice, and pepper. Let stand for 5 minutes. Add the ground veal and ground pork, and mix well (your hands work best). Stir in the ham, shallot mixture, and the cranberries with the Cognac. Pack into the prepared loaf pan and cover tightly with a double thickness of aluminum foil.

5.
Place the loaf pan into a roasting pan. Transfer to the oven. Pull out the oven rack slightly and pour enough hot water into the roasting pan to come ½ inch up the sides. Slide the rack back into the oven. Bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the pâté (right through the foil) reads 160°F, about ¼ hours.

6.
Remove the loaf pan from the water and place on a wire cake rack. Cool to room temperature.

7.
Run a knife around the inside of the pan. Invert to unmold the pâté, wiping away any congealed juices with paper towels. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight before serving. (The pâté can be prepared up to 5 days ahead.) Serve the pâté chilled or at room temperature.

Mini-Meatballs in Wild Mushroom Sauce

I have a fondness for retro dishes—they’re comforting, familiar, and make guests feel at home. But that doesn’t mean that they have to be one of your mom’s recipes. Take these updated Swedish meatballs, which definitely do not include canned soup. I often make a double batch to be sure to have leftovers to serve the day after the party over noodles. Polish up the chafing dish to serve these creamy morsels.

Makes 48 meatballs, 6 to 8 servings

Make Ahead: The meatballs can be made up to 2 days ahead; the sauce can be made 1 day ahead.

1 cup (1 ounce) dried porcini mushrooms

1 cup boiling water

MEATBALLS

1
/3 cup plain dried bread crumbs

1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

1¼ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

12 ounces ground beef round

12 ounces ground veal

12 ounces ground pork

2 cups beef broth, preferably homemade, heated

SAUCE

10 ounces cremini (baby portobello) mushrooms

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

1
/3 cup all-purpose flour

1
/3 cup heavy cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Tossing Crumbs

Few kitchens are without a box of dried bread crumbs stashed in a cabinet corner. These have their place (to bind some meat loaves and meatballs), but I use fresh bread crumbs more often. The lighter texture and superior flavor of freshly prepared bread crumbs make them much more versatile than the sandy, store-bought kind. Whenever I have leftover bread, I make bread crumbs and freeze them to have ready when needed.

For the best results, use firm, day-old bread, such as crusty French or Italian bread or a high-quality sandwich loaf. English muffins or sandwich rolls also work well, as long as they aren’t sweetened. Don’t bother to trim off the crusts—they’ll add color and texture. In a food processor, with the machine running, drop the bread through the feed tube and process until finely ground and fluffy. (The crumbs can also be prepared in a blender in small batches.) The crumbs can be frozen in a self-sealing plastic bag for up to 2 months. There’s no need to defrost the crumbs before using.

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