Low & Slow: Master the Art of Barbecue in 5 Easy Lessons (32 page)

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Authors: Colleen Rush,Gary Wiviott

BOOK: Low & Slow: Master the Art of Barbecue in 5 Easy Lessons
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COLD SIDES
 
GARLIC SLAW
 
Danny Gaulden is a well-known barbecue man from Carlsbad, New Mexico, and this recipe is my spicy adaptation of his Garlic Slaw. The recipe was near perfect on its own, but I’m rarely content with strictly following recipes. If a little of something is good, a lot of something is better. So I added a hit of cayenne, threw in a few grated jalapeños, and nearly tripled the amount of garlic. Because the cabbage wilts and can turn the dressing thin and watery, don’t dress the coleslaw more than three hours before serving. Use tongs to grab the coleslaw out of the mixing bowl and strain the excess dressing from it before putting it in a serving bowl.
SERVES 10 TO 12
 
2 cups mayonnaise
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons prepared yellow mustard
⅓ cup cider vinegar
1⅛ teaspoons kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
½ lemon, juiced (about 2 tablespoons juice)
1 small green cabbage, quartered, cored,
and thinly sliced (about 6 cups)
½ small red cabbage, quartered, cored,
and thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
2 medium carrots, peeled and grated
(about ½ cups)
½ bunch green onions, thinly sliced
3 jalapeños, grated
½ red bell pepper, diced
 
Whisk the mayonnaise, sugar, mustard, vinegar, salt, pepper, cayenne, garlic, and lemon juice in a large bowl until combined. Toss with the cabbage, carrot, green onion, jalapeño, and bell pepper. Cover the slaw with plastic wrap and refrigerate until it’s cold and the flavors blend—at least 1 hour, but no more than 3 hours to keep the slaw from wilting and getting runny.
GRANDMA
SCHULER’S
POTATO SALAD
 
From my lovely bride, Ellen’s, mother, this straightforward potato salad is a delicious mainstay at family picnics. The Kraft mayo is more tradition than taste-maker. Feel free to substitute your favorite mayonnaise.
 
SERVES 6 TO 8
 
2½ pounds small red-skinned potatoes,
scrubbed, but not peeled
½ tablespoon salt
4 eggs, hard-cooked and coarsely chopped
½ medium onion, grated
1½ cups Kraft Real Mayo
1 tablespoon sweet pickle relish
½ tablespoon crushed garlic
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Paprika, for garnish
Parsley, for garnish
 
Place potatoes, ½ tablespoon salt, and water to cover in a large pot. Bring the water to a boil over high heat; then reduce heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes; a toothpick or fork should slide easily into the flesh. Drain and quarter the potatoes. Place the potato, egg, and grated onion in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, stir the mayonnaise, relish, garlic, and salt and pepper together. Pour the dressing over the potato mixture and gently fold to combine.
Cover and refrigerate the potato salad until cold, about 1 hour. After cooling, taste and reseason as needed. To serve, mound the potato salad in a bowl and garnish with a dusting of paprika and a topknot of parsley. Store in the refrigerator for up to two days.
LEXINGTON RED SLAW
 
A pulled pork sandwich is not a pulled pork sandwich in North Carolina without this tangy barbecue slaw thrown on. As in the barbecue sauce or “dip” native to western North Carolina, tomato (in this case, ketchup) makes an appearance. And because it contains no mayonnaise, this different breed of coleslaw is picnic-friendly.
 
SERVES 8 TO 10
 
⅓ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup ketchup
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ teaspoons celery seeds
1 medium green cabbage, quartered, cored,
and thinly sliced (about 8 cups)
3 large carrots, peeled and grated (about 1½ cups)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
 
Whisk the oil, ketchup, vinegar, sugar, and celery seeds in a large bowl. Toss with the cabbage and carrot. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and chill in the refrigerator at least 2 hours, but no more than 6 hours, before serving.
CREAMY MACARONI SALAD
 
On a blistering-hot day, a tangy cold macaroni salad is an excellent counterpoint to warm barbecue. If you make the salad and refrigerate it for a few hours before serving, the macaroni will absorb a lot of the liquid in the dressing. Stir in a few tablespoons of cold water to revive some moisture. Taste the salad and adjust the seasonings after it has been refrigerated.
 
SERVES 8 TO 10
 
1 pound elbow macaroni, cooked al dente in
salted boiling water and drained
½ red onion, minced
1 celery rib, minced
3 tablespoons minced Italian flat-leaf parsley or
1 tablespoon dried parsley
½ lemon, juiced (about 2 tablespoons juice)
1 tablespoon brown prepared mustard
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon Louisiana-style hot sauce
1½ cups mayonnaise
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
 
Place the cooked pasta in a large mixing bowl. Stir in the onion, celery, parsley, lemon juice, mustard, garlic powder, and hot sauce. Fold in the mayonnaise. Add salt and pepper. Refrigerate, covered, for 1 hour before serving.
Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to two days.
TEXAS CAVIAR
 
This simple dish belies its highbrow name, but the humble cowpea, or black-eyed pea, is a beloved legume in Texas—particularly when served with barbecue. (Athens in East Texas is the “black-eyed pea capital of the world,” in case you have any doubts.) The peas are nearly pickled in the strong vinaigrette overnight. The caviar can be served as a side salad or as a scoopable salsa with tortilla chips.
 
SERVES 6 TO 8
 
½ cup olive oil
¼ cup white vinegar
2 garlic cloves, finely minced
¼ teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon Morton kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups black-eyed peas, cooked, or 2 (15-ounce)
cans black-eyed peas, drained and rinsed
1 jalapeño, minced
4 green onions, sliced
1 celery rib, finely diced
 
Whisk the oil, vinegar, garlic, mustard powder, salt, and pepper together in a bowl. Add black-eyed peas, jalapeño, onion, and celery and toss. Refrigerate overnight.
Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one week.
TUSCAN WHITE
BEAN SALAD
 
Simple and delicious, this is a long-time favorite dish from my friend Jan Bloom, a terrific cook and an even better tango dancer. I regularly make this to serve at my own backyard gatherings or to bring to parties. It’s low maintenance, and with no spoilable ingredients, it holds up well over several hours.
 
SERVES 6 TO 8
 
1½ cups dried cannellini beans, cooked, or 2 (15-
ounce) cans cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
1 cup Italian flat-leaf parsley, stemmed and chopped
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 lemon, juiced (about 3 tablespoons juice)
5 garlic cloves, minced
½ tablespoon kosher salt, or to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
 
Combine the beans, parsley, and tomato in a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the oil, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and pepper to emulsify. Pour the dressing over the beans and gently toss to blend. Serve at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator for up to one week.
TIP:
If you double the recipe, do not increase the amount of salt in the salad.
 
INGREDIENT FINDER: CANNELLINI BEANS
 
Popular in Southern Italian cuisine, these nutty white beans are a common staple in Italian markets. Most supermarkets stock canned cannellini beans in the aisle with Italian or Mexican ingredients (labeled “alubias” in Spanish). If you can’t find cannellinis, substitute with great Northern or white navy beans.
 
THAI-STYLE SWEET AND SOUR
CUCUMBER SALAD
 
This traditional Thai salad is a classic accompaniment with grilled, skewered satay, but over years of searching for new, non-traditional sides, I’ve found this to be the perfect foil for American barbecue. Tart, hot, and just a little sweet, it works with any barbecue, but it is a terrific match with ribs bathed in the Char Siu-Style Marinade (page 135) or chicken made with the Thai Marinade (page 67), Thai Herb Paste (page 102), or Lemongrass Brine (page 92).
 
SERVES 6
 
2 large cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise,
seeded, and thinly sliced
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes
4 tablespoons sugar
½ cup water
5 tablespoons white vinegar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
 
Place the cucumber slices, onion, and pepper flakes in a heatproof mixing bowl. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat, and gently simmer until the sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the vinegar and salt. Pour the liquid over the cucumber mixture and stir. Cover and refrigerate. Allow the salad to marinate 1 to 2 hours before serving.
PICKLED
RED ONIONS
 
Pickles and barbecue are a classic combination, but this zippy relish takes a bit more chefing than just opening ajar. The payoff is in the punchy flavor. I also like the color contrast of dark, smoky barbecue and the delightfully eerie, translucent red glow of these pickles.
 
SERVES 10 TO 12
 
4 large red onions, thinly sliced
3 cups cider vinegar
¾ cup sugar
1 tablespoon Morton kosher salt
2 whole cloves or ¼ teaspoon ground allspice
4 whole allspice berries
 
Place the onions in a large glass bowl. Combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, cloves, and allspice in a large nonreactive saucepan and bring the mixture to a rolling boil. Carefully pour the pickling liquid over the onions. Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally. Pack the pickled onions and liquid in an airtight container or clean glass jars. Refrigerate for at least 3 to 4 hours before serving. Store in the refrigerator for up to five days.
ST. PETER FAMILY CORN AND TOMATO SALAD
 
This salad came to me by way of Dan Gill, a barbecue man I hold in high esteem and owner of Something Different Country Store and Deli in Urbanna, Virginia. The recipe is an original from Judy St. Peter, the mother of store manager Angela St. Peter. It’s a family favorite and one of the most popular sides at the deli. The dish also has friends in high places. Eric St. Peter was a Navy mess cook during parts of the Clinton and Bush administrations, and this simple salad was such a hit that it was included in The White House Cookbook. Judy St. Peter uses frozen corn—preferably shoepeg—but notes that fresh sweet corn, blanched and cut from the cob, makes the best salad.
 
SERVES 10 TO 12
 
2 pounds (32 ounces) frozen shoepeg or white corn,
defrosted, or 3 (15-ounce) cans shoepeg or white
corn, drained
2 to 3 medium tomatoes, diced
½ medium red onion, finely diced
1 red bell pepper, diced
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Combine all of the ingredients in a large bowl and toss to combine. Serve at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator for up to three days.
TIP:
For an added twist, use smoked tomatoes (page 217).
 
HOT SIDES
 
GERMAN POTATO SALAD
 
 
This rich warm potato salad embodies one of my favorite sayings: Nothing says excess like excess. I have nothing against traditional mayonnaisey potato salad, but everything is better with bacon. It’s probably not the potato salad to serve when it’s 103°F outside, but when you discover the glory of firing up your cooker on a chilly fall or winter day, this is the first side dish that should come to mind.
SERVES 6 TO 8
 
 
2 pounds large red-skinned potatoes,
scrubbed and cubed (about 1-inch cubes)
½ pound bacon (8 to 10 strips)
1 onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
½ teaspoon sugar
½ cup cider vinegar
⅓ cup water
1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup Italian flat-leaf parsley, stemmed and
chopped

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