Low & Slow: Master the Art of Barbecue in 5 Easy Lessons (28 page)

8. “3½ down” refers to . . .

a. the temperature check taken at the midpoint of a spare rib cook

b. a full rack of spare ribs that has been cut in half

c. the weight, in pounds, of an untrimmed rack of spare ribs

d. 3½ pounds or less, the ideal weight of a fully trimmed rack of spare ribs

WSM AND OFFSET

 

SERVES 20 TO 25

 

 

2 (7- to 9-pound) pork butts
(See Buying Guide, page 188)
2 cups white vinegar
1 cup yellow prepared mustard
Graduate Rub (page 176)
Tart Wash (page 115)

KETTLE

 

SERVES 8 TO 10

 

 

1 (4- to 6-pound) pork butt
(See Buying Guide, page 188)
1 cup white vinegar
½ cup yellow prepared mustard
Graduate Rub (page 176)
Tart Wash (page 115)

WSM AND OFFSET

 

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

 

 

6 tablespoons paprika
4 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons Morton kosher salt
4 teaspoons garlic powder
4 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons chipotle powder or Toasted
Mexican Pepper Blend (page 18)
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

KETTLE

 

MAKES ABOUT
½
CUP

 

 

3 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
1½ tablespoons Morton kosher salt
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons onion powder
1 teaspoon chipotle powder or Toasted
Mexican Pepper Blend (page 18)
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

FLIPPING
AND
ROTATING

 

HOT PORK SHOULDERS

 

IN THE PREVIOUS LESSONS,
flipping and rotating the meat was essential to ensure that all sides of the meat were equally exposed to the hottest zone in the cooker. This lesson is no different, except for the fact that you’re handling up to nine pounds of solid, hot, fatty meat. When the instructions say “flip,” turn the meat vertically so the top side of the shoulder is flipped to the bottom side. To “rotate” the four-sided shoulder, spin the side facing the hot zone ninety degrees horizontally, so a new side faces the hottest area on the grate.

After years of juggling hot pork shoulders between grates, I can make this switch quickly and easily with a few paper towels in hand. Until you’re more experienced, wear insulated gloves and use an extra-wide, heavy-duty grill spatula and a pair of tongs to flip and rotate the meat.

 

WSM

 

WHEN THE FIRE IS FULLY ENGAGED and the cooker is reassembled, place both pork butts fat-side up on the top grate, positioning them as close to the center of the grate as possible without touching.

Set the oven thermometer in the center of the grate, between the pork shoulders.

The vents should be open.

 

 

30
MINUTES INTO THE COOK

Partially close all three bottom vents by one-third. (As always, keep the top vent completely open.)

 

2 HOURS INTO THE COOK

Check the oven thermometer. Refill the water pan.

4 HOURS INTO THE COOK

Check the oven thermometer. Refill the water pan.

Flip the meat fat-side down and rotate the shoulder 90 degrees so that a new side is facing the outer edge of the grate. (See Flipping and Rotating Hot Pork Shoulders, page 177.)

 

5 HOURS INTO THE COOK

Light a chimney starter full of charcoal. Check the oven thermometer.

When the charcoal is fully engaged, after about 10 minutes, put on a pair of heavy-duty oven mitts or work gloves. Grip the side of the center ring and carefully remove it (with the lid on) and set it on even ground. Take extreme caution and move slowly to avoid sloshing the water pan over the charcoals or on your feet. (For detailed instructions, see Restocking the WSM charcoal chamber, page 39.)

Redistribute the hot coals in the ring with tongs. Pour in fresh, unlit charcoal until the ring is three-quarters full, or the charcoal level is about one full inch below the top edge of the ring. Lay two chunks of debarked wood on top of the unlit charcoal.

Pour the lit charcoal in the chimney starter over the charcoal and wood in the ring.

Check the area around the outside of the ring to make sure there are no stray pieces of charcoal blocking the vents. Use the tongs to pick up any strays and return them to the charcoal ring.

When the charcoal stops billowing white smoke, about 10 minutes, add two more chunks of wood to the pile. Carefully reassemble the cooker, returning the center ring (with lid) to the charcoal bowl. Refill the water pan (page 38). Spritz the meat with Tart Wash. Flip the meat fat-side up and rotate the shoulders 90 degrees so that a new side is facing the outer edge of the grate.

 

7½ HOURS INTO THE COOK

Check the oven thermometer. Refill the water pan. Open one bottom vent.

Poke the meat with your finger. At this point, the meat should be starting to “yield,” which is a fancy way of saying that it’s not as firm. Stick an instant-read thermometer into a meaty—not fatty—section of the shoulder to gauge how things are going. Remember: temperature is only one indication of doneness. The temperature will probably be in the range of 160°F to 170°F. The internal temperature of a pork shoulder plateaus during the cook (see page 185) and can hover at this temperature for hours. Be patient, and know that this check is more for educational purposes. Observe, don’t act.

Spritz the meat with Tart Wash. Check the water pan and refill as needed.

 

8½ TO 9 HOURS INTO THE COOK

Poke the meat and check the temperature again to see if it is done. (See The Wabba Wabba, page 186.)

Pork shoulders in the 7- to 9-pound range can take anywhere from 8 to 12 hours to cook. If you are beginning to think the meat might be done, it’s not done yet and could easily use another hour or more.

After this check-in, give the pork shoulder a look and a poke every 20 minutes to check for doneness. Spritz the meat with Tart Wash and refill the water pan as needed. When the smaller of the two pork butts is truly, indisputably done, take that shoulder off. Leave the other shoulder on the cooker for an additional 45 minutes to 1 hour to compare the different stages of doneness.

Let the meat rest for 15 to 20 minutes before handling. The meat “pulls” most easily when warm.