India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (136 page)

Hiring the Best Houseboat

Take this cruise at the right time, and it will possibly be the highlight of your holiday in Kerala, so book during shoulder season, and make sure you hire a good boat. Kettuvallam houseboats are available at various levels of luxury, and may be rented for day trips or for sleep-in journeys of several days; we recommend that you spend 2 nights on board, since it takes one to realize how relaxing the process is, and the major attractions are watching the setting sun turn the lake orange before settling down in the middle of the lake for the night (all boats must be moored or anchored by 6pm for the fishermen to cast their night nets), and witnessing the activities of households on the smaller backwaters at dawn and dusk (only possible on the second day). Most houseboats feature solar-panel power and heating, biotoilets, and an average cruising speed of 8 to 10kmph (5–6 mph). Although the facilities might strike some as rather basic, you’ll be spoiled rotten by your private team—minimum of two, a cook and pilot—who work hard to make your experience unique and exceptional (and discreetly manage to leave you to experience the backwaters in peace). Meals are authentic Kerala fare—if you’re curious about Kerala cuisine, you’re welcome to observe proceedings in the tiny kitchen at the rear end of the boat. With the huge increase of traffic on the backwaters, don’t expect exclusivity—try to avoid booking over the peak season. September is to our mind the best month, when the water is high, harvest is due, races are scheduled, and tourist numbers are relatively low.

One of the simplest and most sensitive conversions of the kettuvallam has been done by
Spice Coast Cruises
(House Boats, Puthenangadi, Alleppey;
0484/266-8221
or 0478/258-2615; [email protected]), who have cleverly increased the number of “awnings” (for views as well as breeze) and created a comfortable sun deck “bed” with white bolster cushions on the elevated section of the boat up front—perfect for lounging around with a book (though the “captain” steers from the front, you soon forget his presence); just behind is your coir-carpeted dining room, furnished with unpretentious antiques. The tiny bedroom comes with A/C (running at night only), and in our experience staff struck just the right balance between attentiveness and discretion. Rates are 290€ to 380€ double during high season (Rs 7,730 in the off-season), all meals included; while a two-bedroom (sleeping four) costs 475€ to 535€, or Rs 10,825 per night in low season.

Three more reputable companies, each with huge and reliable fleets, are
Lakes & Lagoons
(
098-4705-1566;
[email protected]),
Rainbow Cruises
(
0477/224-1375;
www.backwaterkerala.com
; [email protected]), and
Soma Houseboats.
The latter specialize in boats with a separate elevated viewing platform; for this luxury make sure you book one of its “Upper Deck” houseboats (
0471/226-8101;
www.somahouseboats.com
); prices vary according to season, number of bedrooms, and the length of your cruise, but you should be able to get a basic, air-conditioned one-bedroom houseboat for as little as Rs 9,250 during the season (much less if you chose a quieter period). Both Rainbow and Soma have earned Gold Star classification from the state government and are considered the top of their class.

If you prefer to go with sentiment, you can also investigate
TourIndia
(
98-9560-5243;
www.tourindiakerala.com
), the company that pioneered the houseboat concept and were then imitated by countless others. They’ve stuck to their guns, though, and now operate 12 boats.

But if you don’t mind forgoing the traditional kettavallam design, the best houseboat experience is aboard
Discovery
(
0484/221-6666;
www.malabarescapes.com
). Launched in late-2006 by Malabar Escapes (Kerala’s much-lauded boutique hotel chain, responsible for The Malabar House in Fort Cochin), this is a gorgeous modern interpretation of the houseboat concept, with a large upper deck where you dine and sunbathe (furnished with dining table and loungers), a comfortable and stylish bedroom (though no reading lamps), large shower room and dressing area, and a separate, spacious lounge—all A/C. The team works hard to create routes where you won’t come across other houseboats, but the likelihood is slim these days, and you will probably dock your final night at Privacy (see below), one of our favorite backwaters villas, from where you start and end your journey. The only drawback, besides the hefty price tag (350€–450€ per night, including all meals), is the early morning “check-out”—you’re required to be off the boat by 10am—no doubt another great reason to top and tail your houseboat tour at Privacy. You can also opt for a 3-night package on board the boat, with 21⁄2 full days spent getting a better understanding of backwaters life; you’ll visit a market, dine in an authentic village home (one of the best meals you’ll have), and watch kathakali in it’s spiritual context in a temple. Discovery has an edge of modernity and style that makes it our personal pick as far as houseboats go.

Another top option if money is no object is the small fleet of well-equipped houseboats belonging to
Kumarakom Lake Resort
—they’re among the most luxurious on the lake, and highly recommended. They are also slightly cheaper than Discovery; Rs 15,000 to Rs 22,500 one-bedroom, Rs 25,000 to Rs 35,000 two-bedroom, Rs 2,000 extra person. In addition to all meals and taxes, these rates include access to the facilities at the Resort, too.