India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (134 page)

WHERE TO STAY

Bangaram Island Resort
Eco-consciously designed to all but disappear into the surroundings, the modest resort remains quite basic, with emphasis on the captivating setting rather than fussy luxuries—the result is pure heaven. Up against the biggest hoteliers of the day, CGH (now CGH Earth) won the rights to host visitors here based on their commitment to ecological principles long before they were fashionable. Today, this peaceful 50-hectare (123-acre) island is still nothing but untouched beaches and towering coconut palms—no newspapers, television, minibars, or even air-conditioning get in the way of experiencing the island’s beauty. Guest cottages—thatch-covered huts, really—are arranged in a row a short distance back from the beach, and are spartan and clean: simple cane furniture, mesh screen windows, and private porches. The atmosphere here is so removed from workaday worries (and you don’t need to worry about snakes, scorpions, or monkeys either—although there are plenty of insects) that you’ll find no excuses not to recline in your hammock and stare into the magnificent cobalt waters, or discover a new addiction to diving, which is a major draw. On foot (take shoes for coral-covered stretches), you can skirt the entire island in about an hour; en route you will discover a host of stunning milky-white beaches to call your own. There’s an Ayurvedic massage center for those days when sunbathing gets too stressful, and early risers can salute the rising sun with yoga on the helipad at 6:30am. It’s the stuff of an old-fashioned dream vacation.

Bangaram Island, Lakshadweep. Reservations: CGH Earth, Casino Bldg., Willingdon Island, Cochin 682 003.
0484/301-1711.
Fax 0484/266-8001.
www.cghearth.com
. [email protected]. 24 cottages, all with shower only. Nov–Apr 300€–360€ standard hut double, 550€–600€ 2-bedroom deluxe hut (sleeps 4), 125€ extra person; May–Oct Rs 8,500 2-bedroom deluxe hut (sleeps 4), Rs 2,860 extra person. Rates include all meals and taxes. Discounts for stays of 7 nights or more in high season. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant, bar; airport transfers by boat (Rs 1,400 return, Sept 15–May 15 only) or by helicopter (Rs 3,200; May 16–Sept 14); Ayurvedic center; beach volley ball; boating, kayaking and sailing; dive center; fishing; snorkeling; telephone; yoga and meditation. In room: No phone.

3 The Backwaters

Alappuzha is 85km (53 miles) S of Kochi; Kumarakom is 95km (59 miles) S of Kochi

Kerala’s backwaters comprise a web of waterways that forms a natural inland transport network stretching from
Kochi,
the northern gateway, to
Kollam
(or
Quilon,
as it’s been renamed), the backwaters’ southernmost town. At its heart is Vembanad Lake, on the eastern shores of which lie the top-notch resorts of
Kumarakom
and its Bird Sanctuary, and on its south bank, the little town of
Alappuzha,
the unofficial capital of the backwaters. Inland, just 12km (7 1⁄2 miles) east of Kumarakom, is
Kottayam,
the bustling town described by Arundhati Roy in her Booker Prize–winning
The God of Small Things.
Located at the foot of the Western Ghats, it has two historically significant (but ultimately missable) early Syrian Christian churches. But, then again, you’re hardly here to visit monuments and attractions—you’re here to lap up a blissfully melancholic way of life, and witness daily bucolic dramas played out upon the waterways and among the coconut groves.

Kumarakom has the most luxury accommodations, all strung along the shores of Vembanad Lake, but unless you’re a dedicated birder, there’s not a great deal to do here. Indulge in Ayurvedic therapies, and laze under the tropical sun—that’s about as busy as your day is likely to get; then board a houseboat cruise, where the passing scenery and languid pace (and, should you be paying for luxury, discreet service) is enough to lull you into a comfortable coma. Between November and March, the local
Bird Sanctuary
becomes home to numerous migratory flocks, many of which fly in from Siberia. Regularly seen here are little cormorants, darters (or snake birds), night herons, golden-backed woodpeckers, tree pies, and crow pheasants. Given its exclusivity and sublime setting, Kumarakom does not offer accommodations for budget-oriented travelers; for that you’ll need to look farther south to
Alappuzha
(pronounced Ala-
pur[d]-
ha, or Alleppey if you can’t be bothered), also the focal point of backwater cruise operators, and the only backwater town worth spending a few hours indulging in a bit of retail therapy.

The entire backwaters region is a tranquil paradise and sustains a delightfully laid-back way of life that has endured for centuries—perfect for sultry, idle, do-nothing houseboat adventures that take you into the heart of Kerala country life. Despite the massive increase in traffic from the tourist boom, floating along these waters will be the highlight of your sojourn in south India (see “Hiring the Best Houseboat,” below).

Snake Boat Races

Every year Kerala’s backwater canals host the world’s largest team sport, when scores of streamlined 30m (100-ft.) chundanvalloms—commonly known as snake boats because their prow looks like the raised hood of a snake—are propelled across the waters at impressive speeds, cheered on by an exuberant audience. Typically, snake boats are manned by four helmsmen, 25 singers, and up to 100 oarsmen rowing in unison to the terrific rhythm of the vanchipattu, or “song of the boatman.” The oldest and most popular event is the
Champakulam Moolam Boat Race,
held in monsoon-soaked July, but the most famous water battle is undoubtedly the
Nehru Trophy Boat Race,
held on the second Saturday of August on the Punnamada backwaters of Alleppey in conjunction with Kerala’s important Onam harvest festival. Tickets for the event, which features at least 16 competing chundanvalloms and attracts thousands of excited supporters, are available from the
District Tourism Promotion Council office
(see “Visitor Information,” below), but best to ask your hotel or houseboat operator to arrange these. If you’re not visiting during the rainy season, you’ll be glad to hear that a rerun of the event—organized with the tourist season in mind, so be warned—happens in February.

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION
The official authority responsible for dishing out information to visitors is the
District Tourism Promotion Council,
which
has various offices in the different backwaters towns. The main office is in
Alappuzha,
near the Boat Jetty (
0477/225-3308;
www.dtpcalappuzha.com
;
daily 9am–5:30pm). If your main interest is getting information on houseboats, see “Hiring the Best Houseboat,” below.

GETTING THERE
By Road
Taxis are easily available in all major towns and cities. From Kochi a taxi should cost at most Rs 1,200 and get you to Kottayam in about 11⁄2 hours; farther south, Alappuzha is better connected (better road) and should take around 1 hour. It is a 5-hour journey from Idukki/Periyar, the same from Munnar. Trivandrum lies 4 hours away.

By Air
For the northern backwater towns, the nearest airport is at Kochi; around 76km (47 miles) by road by car to Kottayam/Kumarakom, or 85km (53 miles) to Alappuzha.

By Train
Though there are railheads in Kottayam (15 min. from the Kumarakom resorts), Alappuzha, and Kollam, your best bet is to get to Trivandrum or Kochi and then head out by road; all resorts offer transfers.

GETTING AROUND
By Water-Taxi & Ferry
Kottayam, Alappuzha, and Kollam are all connected by ferries that ply the route, with six departures to Kottayam daily. State Water Transport Department ferries between Alappuzha and Kottayam (a 3-hr. round-trip) depart from the tourist boat jetty near the bus station. Ferries between Alappuzha and Kollam take 8 hours, departing from both the Alleppey and Kollam boat jetties at 10:30am and arriving in Kollam/Alappuzha around 6:30pm (cost is Rs 300); after this you can catch a road taxi back. Be warned, though, that although you’ll spot Chinese fishing nets and typical Kerala houses along the way (not to mention all kinds of non-routine activity, you need real stamina and patience to “enjoy” the entire day-long trip. If you’re in a hurry you can ask about speedboats (Rs 700 per hour; maximum four passengers), which more than halve the journey time (but are more injurious to the environment).