India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (131 page)

Cinnamon
A branch of Bangalore’s trendy store, this is Kochi’s most fashionable outlet. With a cool gallerylike ambience, Cinnamon sells modern
objets,
shoes, and fashions that are entirely homegrown and produced by some of the best designers in India (ask about garments by Abraham & Thakore, Vivek Narang, Sonum Dubal, Priyadarshini Rao, and Jason Anshu). Find fishing nets made into pillowcases, coconuts fashioned into purses, vintage prints of Hindu deities, silk caftans, and cotton dresses and tunics ideal for the Indian heat. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm. 1/658 Ridsdale Rd., Parade Ground, Fort Kochi.
0484/221-7124.

Crafters
In the heart of historic Mattanchery’s Jew Town, Crafters is an antiques fetishist’s dream come true. A huge selection of unique antiques and handicrafts, ranging from religious curiosities to that perfect doorway, are displayed in five different stores, and piled up high in a massive warehouse style, with so much to take home you’ll find it hard to leave empty-handed; staff members are dab hands at arranging for purchases to be shipped abroad. Before you purchase anything, though, do look around the other antiques shops in Jew Town; Crafters has the best selection, and prices are fair, but you won’t find real bargains here. VI/141, Jew Town.
0484/222-3346,
-7652, or 93-8860-5069.

Ethnic Passage
It’s been a long time coming, but Kochi finally has what looks and feels like a smart retail arcade. Linking Jew Town’s main bazaar with the synagogue, this chic little center was still partially vacant at the time of research, but with at least one quality bookstore (stocking tomes on India and esoterica) and an antique outlet up and running, and pretty handicrafts and jewelry for sale (and talk of Fabindia setting up shop here, too), it looks set to be
the
one-stop shopping destination in Old Kochi. Best of all, if you’re exhausted from all that hard bargaining, you can rest up at
Café Jew Town,
imbibing the atmosphere along with a thick cake wedge. Jew Town.
0484/222-5601.

Niraamaya
If you’re in any way curious about the healing power of Ayurveda, pay a visit to this small
“Ayur vastra”
boutique, which sells organic cotton products that are apparently infused with Ayurvedic medicines. They stock a lovely range of men’s shirts (from Rs 900) and women’s tops (from Rs 500)—hand woven and dyed in subtle shades and natural colors, they’re incredibly light and ideal for the hot Kerala climate. But the producers claim that the material on your body will also contribute to improved health. They also sell shawls, bed linen (apparently good for back pain), and yoga mats infused with similarly healthful potions. 1/622, Quiros St., Fort Kochi.
0484/326-3465
or 93-4901-3173.
www.ayurvastraonline.com
.

Traveller’s Paradise
Under supervision of a French stylist, this community-oriented boutique carries a range of beautiful goods—from stylish linens and fabrics to handmade village crafts—with profits going to needy villages. Local women are employed, and the charitable organization based here arranges excursions (including backwater cruises and village tours) that benefit local communities and emphasize eco-friendly principles. K.L. Bernard Master Rd., Fort Kochi.
0484/221-8633.
www.bloominthenaturalway.com
.

KOCHI AFTER DARK

When the sun starts to sink, you should be watching it turn the harbor waters pale pink, either on a harbor cruise or, a cocktail in hand, from the
Harbour View
bar at The Gateway Hotel Marine Drive
in Ernakulam (see above). Once the sun has set, head down M.G. Road to the Avenue Regent hotel and grab a sofa at
Loungevity,
a cool white minimalist lounge bar, and watch the city of Kochi network at the trendiest nightspot in the untouristy part of the city (
0484/237 7977;
www.avenuehotels.in
). Alternatively, if you want to stay in Fort Kochi, a Kathakali or Kalaripayattu demonstration (see below) can easily fill the gap before a fine seafood dinner. Or simply spend the evening sampling glass after glass of India’s top vintages at The Malabar House’s tiny wine lounge,
Divine
(see “Where to Dine, above).