India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (123 page)

The Top Attractions

Chinese Fishing Nets
Said to have been introduced by traders from the court of Kublai Khan, these cantilevered nets, set up on teak and bamboo poles, are physical remnants of Fort Kochi’s ancient trade with the Far East. Fishermen work the nets all day long, lowering them into the water and then hauling them up using a remarkably efficient pulley system. The best place to watch them at work is from
Vasco da Gama Square
or from a boat at sunset. Nearby, the Indo-European
Bastion Bungalow
(now the official residence of the Sub Collector) dates back to 1667; built on the site of the old Dutch Fort’s Stromberg Bastion, it is believed to stand above a network of secret tunnels.

Vasco da Gama Sq. is on the water’s edge along River Rd.

Mattancherry Palace
Also known as the Dutch Palace, this large two-story 16th-century building was actually built by the Portuguese, who gave it to the Raja of Kochi as thanks for trading rights and favors granted to them. When the Dutch claimed Kochi in 1663, they took control of the palace and gave it a makeover. The large two-story building with its sloping roofs and pale walls is now a shadow of what it must have once been. Part of it is open to visitors, and displays include a collection of coronation robes, palanquins, and royal family portraits, but the real reason to visit is to view the bedroom chamber, where vibrant murals, executed in vivid red, green, and yellow ocher, are truly exquisite. Particularly notable are erotic scenes of the divine lover, Krishna, surrounded by enraptured female figures. Vishnu, Shiva, and various Hindu deities fill the large walls, their eyes wide and bodies full. These are among the first examples of a school of painting specific to Kerala.

Palace Rd., Mattancherry. Admission Rs 5. No photography. Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm.

Paradesi Synagogue
Kochi’s first Jewish settlers arrived from Yemen and Babylon as early as
A.D.
52; this—the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth—was originally built 1,500 years later. Set in a corner of Jew Town and rather hemmed in by other buildings, with only the 18th-century clock tower visible from the outside, it must be entered before you can view its most interesting feature: the beautiful blue-and-white Cantonese ceramic floor tiles—each individual tile hand-painted, so no two are alike. Above, glorious Belgian chandeliers dangle from the ceiling. At one end of the hall, old Torah scrolls are kept behind the gilded doors of the holy tabernacle.

Only a handful of Jews remain in Kochi (around five or six), though they uphold the traditions of their ancestors, and the synagogue is moving testament to the effects of the Diaspora. The number remaining are not enough to form a
minyan
(the number of men needed to sustain a synagogue), so Jews from outlying areas travel to Kochi to worship in this historic Judaic monument; they also rely on Jewish visitors to help make up numbers for ceremonies, so definitely make your presence known if you qualify. The synagogue elders are understandably concerned about tourist numbers, and numerous signs warn that no one is allowed upstairs, no one is allowed inside the pulpit, and no one is allowed to touch anything. You are also expected to be demurely attired.

Jew Town Rd., Mattancherry. Admission Rs 2. Sun–Thurs 10am–noon and 3–5pm; closed for Jewish holidays.

St. Francis Church
India’s earliest European church was originally constructed in wood, but this was replaced by a stone structure in 1546. It was also originally Roman Catholic, but under the British it became Anglican. Vasco da Gama was originally buried here when he died in Kochi on Christmas Eve, 1524; although his body was later moved to Lisbon, he is still memorialized here with a tombstone. Having passed through the hands of Franciscan friars, Dutch Protestants, and Anglicans, the presiding Church of South India continues to hold its services here every morning at 8am. As at Hindu temples and Muslim mosques, you are required to remove your shoes before entering; note the large
pankahs
—air-conditioning of old—still hanging over the pews, alongside the ancient ceiling fans.

Church St., Fort Kochi. Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm.

Santa Cruz Basilica
Pope Paul IV elevated this Portuguese church to a cathedral in 1558, but the original building was destroyed by the British in 1795. A new building was commissioned on the same site in 1887; it was declared a basilica in 1984 by Pope John Paul II. The basilica’s interiors are worth a look, especially the caryatids and exquisite stained glass.

Parade Rd. and K. B. Jacob Rd., near Bastion St., Fort Kochi.
www.santacruzbasilica.org
. Mon–Sat 9am–1pm and 3–5pm; Sun morning Mass only.

Black Gold

In Kerala, pepper is still sometimes referred to as karuthu ponnu, or “black gold,” and represents the backbone of the state’s international spice trade. Although the furious trade around spices has subsided considerably these days, the sorting houses, warehouses, and auction houses from which these valuable products find their way to the rest of the world still operate in much the same way they have for centuries (though given the current crises surrounding many of the traditional cash crops, there is a possibility that these side-street sights will not be around forever). Ask your guide or auto-rickshaw driver to take you to the ginger, black pepper, betel nut, and Ayurvedic medicine warehouses, reminiscent of Salman Rushdie’s The Moor’s Last Sigh; or head for the
Kochi International Pepper Exchange
on Jew Town Rd., Mattancherry (
0484/222-4263
), where until recently you could see Kerala’s black gold being furiously sold off to the highest bidder; sadly, this is now done electronically.

WHERE TO STAY

Fort Cochin is the area with the most historic charm and, compared with most Indian cities, a thoroughly laid-back vibe; best here are
Le Colonial
(utterly sumptuous interiors),
Brunton Boatyard
(waterfront location),
Malabar House
(chichi decor), and
Old Harbour Hotel
(best value and a wonderful atmosphere). In fact, this small enclave has the highest density of heritage accommodations in the country, so it’s hard to be disappointed here. Alternatively, if you demand a large, full-amenity hotel, opt for Willingdon Island, a 10-minute ferry ride away, and useful if you really want to be far away from the crowds—it’s hassle-free, although also a little empty on atmosphere.

If you don’t mind being far from the ambience of Fort Kochi and the harbor, there’s one relaxing out-of-town option worth considering Far more satisfying, however, and Kochi’s best opportunity for a beach experience, is the thoroughly laid-back
Cherai Beach
Resorts,
some 30km (19 miles, or 40 min.) north of Kochi by road, or 15km (9 1⁄3 miles) from the Vypeen jetty. Savvy locals swear by the place, both as a chance for respite from the daily grind, and for its dining, so don’t turn your nose up just because it’s pretty basic. Ask for a heritage cottage with an open-air bathroom and patio on stilts overlooking the backwaters; although the newer rooms are sleeker, they lack the charm of these. Service and amenities may be obvious shortfalls, but the location at the edge of one of Kerala’s most scintillating (and relatively undiscovered) beaches will definitely make up for this; besides, the Ayurvedic rejuvenation massages are a treat, and the Keralite meals superb.
And
it’s a very good value at Rs 2,000 to Rs 5,500 (
0484/248-1818
or 0484/241-6949;
www.cheraibeachresorts.com
).