India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (125 page)

1/315 Church St., Vasco da Gama Sq., Fort Cochin 682 001.
0484/221-7181
through -7184. Reservations: Neemrana Hotels, A-20/B, Feroze Gandhi Marg, New Delhi 110 024.
011/4666-1666.
Fax 011/4666-1600.
www.neemrana.com
. [email protected]. 8 units. Midseason Rs 11,500–Rs 17,500 double, Rs 6,500 small double; low season Rs 7,000–Rs 10,000 double, Rs 4,500 small double; peak season Rs 17,000–Rs 24,000 double, Rs 11,000 small double. Rates include breakfast plus one other meal, soft drinks, tea, coffee, and laundry; 15% tax extra. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant (Mountbatten; see “Where to Dine,” below); airport transfers (Rs 900–Rs 1,800); medium-size outdoor pool; room service. In room A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Old Harbour Hotel
This 1808 bungalow was until recently the residence of an old tea-broking family, and renovation has been very sensitive; even the entry-level superior rooms retain a sense of history and space. Owner Edgar Pinto is an avid collector of excellent modern Indian art; a Swiss architect breathed life back into the dilapidated structure and then styled it with a sexy integration of locally sourced antiques and contemporary color—a big triumph is the sense of space and tranquillity thanks to a generous garden and pretty pool. Garden-view rooms are a little more generous size-wise (choose “Tower”), but the garden “cottages” are the best value, with lovely outdoor bathrooms. Usually suites are not worth the money (unless you’re traveling with kids), but the huge Princess and Palace suites, both with a harbor view, are bargains and simply palatial. It’s not positioned right on the waterfront like Brunton (but pretty darn close), but it’s got atmosphere and class and offers excellent value; and the rooms are more spacious than those at Malabar House. Book immediately.

1/328 Tower Rd., Fort Cochin 682 001.
0484/221-8006.
www.oldharbourhotel.com
. 13 units, most with shower only. High season Rs 7,500 superior double, Rs 9,300 garden view double, Rs 10,600 garden cottage double; Rs 14,200 suite; low season Rs 5,250 superior double, Rs 6,510 garden view double, Rs 7,420 garden cottage double, Rs 9,940 suite. Rates include breakfast and taxes. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant (1788, reviewed), lounge; airport transfers (Rs 1,200); small Ayurvedic center; large outdoor pool; rooftop yoga (free). In room: A/C and fan, TV on request, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (Rs 200 for entire stay).

Tea Bungalow
Still in its infancy (opened in early 2009), this guesthouse-sized hotel occupies a restored bungalow built in 1912; it’s yet another decent newcomer to Kochi’s heritage scene, yet (unwittingly) looking very contemporary. While it’s antique on the outside, once you step inside there’s not much in terms of historic ambience. Instead, it offers bright, attractive rooms and a fresh, welcoming atmosphere, and while the rates skyrocketed at press time you’ll definitely be able to bargain them down. The spacious interiors have marble floors and boldly colored walls and the smart, upbeat rooms (there’s hardly an antique in sight) are named and themed after different Indian Ocean ports (personal favorites are Goa, Zanzibar and Mauritius)—the best are in the main house and have large doors connecting the bathrooms with private gardens, so you can enjoy a virtual open air shower. While the dining area is a trifle bland, lively barbeques are held around the pool. A decent alternative if the more authentic places are full.

1/1901 Kunnumpuram, Fort Kochi 682 001.
0484/301-9200.
www.teabungalow.in
. [email protected]. 10 units. Oct–Mar $300–$340 double; Apr–Sept $215 double. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant, poolside barbecue lounge, library-lounge with TV, bar; airport transfers (Rs 900–Rs 1,200); outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Trinity
The stone entranceway is engraved with the date 1740 and the initials of the Dutch East India Company (VOC), which had its offices here. It’s another labor of love by the Malabar House team, and for some time now, this has been a really chic little hidden away guesthouse appealing to those after utter privacy. Although the name will likely change once five new rooms are added (a brand-new block is being built), currently the three lovely suites share a lounge and guests avail of facilities at The Malabar House, just a short stroll away. The emphasis here is on good looks and the rooms are decorated with lovely artworks and dramatic photographs—in the Red Suite are lithographs by MF Husain, an important (and highly controversial) Indian artist; the collection also runs to tribal art and other historic artifacts. Of the pretty outdoor bathrooms, most coveted is the Red Suite with its fine chill out area. Trinity (or whatever it will be called) will soon have a spa and restaurant.

1/658 Ridsdale Rd., Parade Ground, Fort Cochin 682 001. Reservations:
0484/221-6666.
Fax 0484/221-7777.
www.malabarhouse.com
. 3 units, all with shower only. Oct–Apr 220€ Blue deluxe double, 300€ Yellow suite, 360€ Red suite; May–Sept 150€ Blue deluxe double, 200€ Yellow suite, 250€ Red suite; 35€ extra bed. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
Breakfast room and lounge; guests may use pool, restaurant, and bar at The Malabar House (reviewed above). In room A/C and fan, TV/DVD.