India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (266 page)

Back near the entrance of the complex stands the
Temple of
Vishvanatha
, built in
A.D.
1002 by King Dhanga, and notable for three female figures that decorate the building. One maiden plays the flute, her back sensuously exposed to the viewer, another cradles a baby, and the third has a parrot seated on her wrist. Opposite the main entrance is
Nandi Pavilion
(or
mandap
), in which one of the largest figures of Shiva’s companion, Nandi the bull, can be found, sculpted from a single piece of stone.

Outside the walls of the Western Group complex, but right alongside the Lakshman Temple, is the still-functioning
Matangeshvar Temple.
It is here that the annual Maha-Shivratri Festival culminates when the Shiva-Parvati marriage ceremony is accompanied by latter-day wedding rituals, lasting through the entire night in a fantastic collaboration of myth and reality.

Planning a major upgrade and a move is the
Archaeological Museum,
at press time still situated across the road from the entrance to the Western Group. By the time you visit, the museum will have relocated to fancy new quarters just outside the town, adjacent to the Grand Temple View hotel. Hopefully, the modest collection of sculptures sampling various Khajuraho sites will be expanded and improved upon. The advantage of spending a few minutes here is that you get to see close-up details of carved figures that usually occur high up on the temple
shikharas.

Main Rd., opposite the State Bank of India. Admission Rs 250 or pay $5 in foreign currency. Daily sunrise–sunset. English-language
sound-and-light show Rs 300; Mar–June 7:30pm, Sept–Oct 7pm, Nov–Feb 6:30pm. Archaeological Museum Rs 10; Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm. No photography in the museum.

Homoeroticism in the Temple: India’s Ancient Gay Rights

The Western group of temples comprise innumerable sculpted images of heterosexual coupling, usually involving buxom women in the company of lean, lithe men no doubt captivated by the physical beauty and impossibly supple bodies of their seductresses. Amid all these scenes of “mainstream” or “straight” desire, we’ve come across one carving that bucks the trend: At the
Jagadambi Temple,
search the left-hand side exterior wall along the third band of carvings rising up towards the main sikhara; discreetly positioned among the hetero couples is a nude man apparently fondling the erect member of a second naked younger man, who—in turn—caresses his lover’s face. Centuries ago Indians were far more progressive on matters related to homosexuality, which is why many were gratified when the high court in Delhi recently overturned a 148-year-old law (dating from the British Raj) that criminalized consensual sex between homosexuals. In a landmark judgment delivered in July 2009, the high court declared the statute to be “the antithesis of the right to equality,” and ordered it to be repealed. No doubt the discreetly placed couple in Jagadambi would, were they mortal, be much relieved.

Eastern Group

The Eastern Group comprises both Hindu and Jain temples. The entrance to the Jain
Shantinath Temple
is guarded by a pair of mythical lions; inside, you are confronted by esoteric charts detailing some of the finer points of Jain philosophy. Photographs of important sculptures and Jain architecture line some of the walls, while the individual shrine entrances are carved with amorous, nonerotic couples and other figures. The main shrine contains a large sculpted image of a naked saint. Throughout the temple, devotees place grains of rice and nuts as tributes at the feet of the various saints.

Parsvanatha Temple
dates from the middle of the 10th century
A.D
. and is the finest and best preserved of Khajuraho’s old Jain temples. Since Jainism promotes an ascetic doctrine, there are no erotic images here, but the sculptural decoration is rich nonetheless. In a large panel at the right side of the entrance are images of meditating and naked Jain saints
(tirthankaras),
while the temple exterior is covered in decorative sculptures of voluptuous maidens, embracing couples, and solo male figures representing various Hindu deities. This is a strong indication that the temple—which recalls the temples of the Western Group—was perhaps originally Hindu. In the same complex,
Adinath Temple
has been modified and reconstructed with plastered masonry and even concrete.

Moving north to the Hindu temples, you will pass
Ghantai Temple;
built in
A.D.
1148, it is named for the pretty sculpted bells that adorn its pillars. Passing between Javari Temple and the granite and sandstone “Brahma” Temple (more likely to be dedicated to Shiva given the presence of a lingam), you come to the northernmost of the Eastern Group temples, the Hindu
Vamana Temple,
built between
A.D.
1050 and 1075. Vamana is the short, plump, dwarf incarnation of Vishnu. The entrance to the inner sanctum of this temple is decorated with small erotic relief panels; within the sanctum you will see Vishnu in many forms, including the Buddha, believed to be one of his incarnations.

Southern Group

One of the last temples to be built,
Duladeo Temple
dates from the 12th century
A.D.
but has been subjected to later restoration. Standing on the banks of Khuddar Stream, facing east, the temple is dedicated to Shiva. Elaborately crowned and ornamented
apsaras,
flying
vidyadharas,
crocodile-mounted
ashtavasu
figures, and sculptures of over-ornamented and stereotypically endowed characters in relatively shallow relief decorate the interior. As at Parshvanath Temple, the walls of Duladeo feature a narrow band of sculptures that depict the celestial garland carriers and musicians in attendance at the wedding of Shiva and Parvati.

The unexceptional
Chaturbhuj Temple,
3km (2 miles) south of Duladeo, sees very little traffic but has a remarkable sculpture of Vishnu and is a peaceful place at the best of times, not least at sunset. Nearby excavations continue to unearth new temple complexes, as Khajuraho keeps revealing more hidden gems.

AN EXCURSION TO PANNA NATIONAL PARK

A mere 27km (17 miles) from Khajuraho, Panna covers 542 sq. km (211 sq. miles) of dry deciduous forests, fed by the Ken River—jungles of teak, Indian ebony, and flame-of-the-forest trees alternate with wide-open grassy plains in what were once the hunting grounds of several royal families. Tragically, Panna has lost all its tigers (barring a recent introduction of a female tigress), but this is a good place to visit for birds and smaller animals including jungle cats (similar to the serval, it is distinguished by its long legs and uniform coat color, which ranges from sandy yellow to reddish brown) and beautiful
nilguy
(blue-bulls). With the lack of tigers, chances of spotting a leopard increase (as there is less competition for prey), but this really is matter of luck. Adjacent to the park is the ancient town of Panna, home to the largest diamond mines in Asia.

27km (17 miles) from Khajuraho.
07732/25-2135.
Bookings through Forest Department, located at the park entrance. Park fees: Rs 2,180 admission (includes vehicle entry and up to 4 persons); Rs 100 guide; still and video camera (free); Rs 600 per person tiger viewing on elephant back. Park open Oct 16–June 30, 6:30–10:30am and 3–5:30pm

WHERE TO STAY

If you’re simply overnighting and here to see the temples, it’s best to stay in the village, from where you can walk to the majority of temples—the Lalit Temple View is your best bet here. If you want to combine the temples with a safari, take a look at our recommended lodgings in Panna National Park, located approximately 45 minutes’ drive from the temples; of these, Ken River Lodge is still a great option, offering a more adventurous, earthy experience but for the ultimate in safari chic, opt for the fabulous Pashan Garh: Panna’s newest safari lodge is managed by the Taj and safari specialists &Beyond, the same team responsible for the exquisite Mahua Kothi and Banjaar Tola (see Bandhavgarh and Kanha accommodations, later in this chapter).
Note:
Still
under discussion is the proposed creation of Khajuraho’s first heritage accommodations, at the hitherto deserted 19th-century
Rajgarh Palace.
Situated some 25km (16 miles) from the village, at the foot of the Manijagarh Hills, this beautiful palace has exceptional views, and the end result is likely to be spectacular. You can get updated information about developments from the local tourism bureau.

In Khajuraho

During winter, groups of tourists pass fast and furious through this dusty and otherwise non-descript little town, and hotels (some with almost 100 rooms) fill up quickly, so it’s a good idea to plan ahead. A few self-billed “luxury” options are situated along Khajuraho’s main road; if they’re not included below, it’s because they really aren’t worth it. A large strip of hotels and guesthouses is dedicated to backpackers; rooms vary considerably. Economy-minded travelers should head for
Hotel Surya
(Jain Temple Rd.;
07686/27-4145;
www.hotelsuryakhajuraho.com
), the best budget hotel in town: Rs 750 to Rs 1,200 buys you a clean, spartan deluxe room with a fan, attached drench shower, and a balcony, from where you can watch early risers practice yoga in the garden. A bit more expensive are the “executive” rooms, distinguished by their relative newness and their considerable size. Surya has a decent dining facility and bikes for hire, and guests can take cooking classes.