Authors: Ann Budd
Cont even until piece measures 7" (18 cm) from back of heel.
Work toe exactly as the heel—work the sole half of the toe sts as for the heel back, then work the instep half of the toe sts as for the heel base. After making the last turn, the RS of the toe top will be facing. Join the toe sts to the top of the foot sts with a zigzag bind-off (a technique borrowed from historic Greek knitting): Align sts on 2 needles, 1 for the toe sts and 1 for the foot sts. Holding these 2 needles tog, p1 from back needle, k1 from front needle, pass first st over, *p1 from back needle, pass front st over, k1 from front needle, pass back st over; rep from * until 1 st rem on needle, working last st tog with its accompanying yo. Break yarn and draw tail through last st. (If you’d prefer an invisible join, work the top of the toe first, then the bottom, then use the Kitchener st [see Glossary,
page 123
] to graft the toe sts to the sole sts. This places the graft on the sole where tension irregularities will be less noticeable.)
The heel and toe are constructed with short-rows that produce an hourglass shape. Each short-row begins with a yarnover that is instrumental in preventing gaps. When the knit side is facing, work the yarnover in the standard manner, bringing yarn forward under needle then over the top to the back. When the purl side is facing, bring yarn to the back under needle, then over the top to the front as illustrated below. This forms a “backward” yarnover—the leading side of the loop is on the back of the needle—but the distance traveled by the yarn will equal that of the standard yarnover on the knit side, an important distinction for truly even stitches. The stitch mount will be corrected later.
With teal, CO 64 sts as for plain sock. Work leg as for plain version, alternating 4 rnds teal with 4 rnds silver 8 times total in k2, p2 rib, then change to St st and work 4 rnds teal, 4 rnds silver, 4 rnds teal, then 2 rnds silver.
The heel on one sock is worked on Needle 1 and Needle 2, with the first stitch in silver, changing to teal for the rest of the heel. When the last turn has been made, change to silver, decreasing with k2tog on the first side, ssk at the other. Complete 4-row stripe in silver. To center the joins on the opposite side for the second sock, work the heel on Needle 3 and Needle 4. Knit across Needle 1 and Needle 2 in silver (3rd row of stripe). Knit 1 st in silver on Needle 3. Cut off teal from beg of rnd. Beg heel as before with teal on the second st. When the last turn has been made, change to silver, dec with an ssk on the first side, k2tog on the other. Complete 4-row stripe in silver. Cont stripes as established in St st to desired foot length (6 teal-silver stripe repeats), ending with 4 rnds silver.
Work in teal as for the plain version (page 26), but beg with the instep half of the toe sts, then work the sole half of the toe sts. After the last turn, the RS of the toe bottom will be facing.
To adapt the pattern for Priscilla’s Dream Socks to a different gauge or size, follow the illustration below to figure out your sock circumference measurement, then use that “magic number” to determine all of the other sock measurements and stitch counts, as shown on
page 29
.
Circumference (C)
= 100%
Cast-on stitches:
100% of Circumference (adjusted if necessary to be divisible by 4)
Ankle rnds:
20% of Circumference
Heel/toe stitches:
50% of Circumference
Stitches between yarnovers:
20% of Circumference (adjust to closest even number)
Magic length:
Circumference minus 1"
With teal threaded on a tapestry needle, use the Kitchener st (see Glossary,
page 123
) to graft toe to bottom of foot, working the yo tog with the last st. Alternatively, join the sts with the zigzag bind-off used for the plain version.
Gauge | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 |
C = 5½" (14 cm; child shoe sizes 3–7) | |||||
cast-on sts | 28 | 32 | 40 | 44 | 48 |
ankle rnds | 6 | 6 | 8 | 9 | 10 |
heel/toe sts | 14 | 16 | 20 | 22 | 24 |
sts bet yos | 6 | 6 | 8 | 8 | 10 |
magic length | 4½" (11.5 cm) | ||||
C = 6½" (16.5 cm; child shoe sizes 8–13) | |||||
cast-on sts | 32 | 40 | 44 | 52 | 60 |
ankle rnds | 6 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 |
heel/toe sts | 16 | 20 | 22 | 26 | 30 |
sts bet yos | 6 | 8 | 8 | 10 | 12 |
magic length | 5½" (14 cm) | ||||
C = 7½" (19 cm; woman’s small) | |||||
cast-on sts | 36 | 44 | 52 | 60 | 68 |
ankle rnds | 7 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 14 |
heel/toe sts | 18 | 22 | 26 | 30 | 34 |
sts bet yos | 8 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 |
magic length | 6½" (16.5 cm) | ||||
C = 8" (20.5 cm; woman’s medium) | |||||
cast-on sts | 40 | 48 | 56 | 64 | 72 |
ankle rnds | 8 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 14 |
heel/toe sts | 20 | 24 | 28 | 32 | 36 |
sts bet yos | 8 | 10 | 12 | 12 | 14 |
magic length | 7" (18 cm) | ||||
C = 8½" (21.5 cm; woman’s large) | |||||
cast-on sts | 44 | 52 | 60 | 68 | 76 |
ankle rnds | 9 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 15 |
heel/toe sts | 22 | 26 | 30 | 34 | 38 |
sts bet yos | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 |
magic length | 7½" (19 cm) | ||||
C = 9" (23 cm; man’s small) | |||||
cast-on sts | 48 | 56 | 64 | 72 | 80 |
ankle rnds | 10 | 11 | 13 | 14 | 16 |
heel/toe sts | 24 | 28 | 32 | 36 | 40 |
sts bet yos | 10 | 12 | 14 | 14 | 16 |
magic length | 8" (20.5 cm) | ||||
C = 9½" (24 cm; man’s medium) | |||||
cast-on sts | 48 | 56 | 68 | 76 | 84 |
ankle rnds | 10 | 12 | 14 | 15 | 17 |
heel/toe sts | 24 | 28 | 34 | 38 | 42 |
sts bet yos | 10 | 12 | 14 | 14 | 16 |
magic length | 8½" (21.5 cm) | ||||
C = 10" (25.5 cm; man’s large) | |||||
cast-on sts | 56 | 60 | 72 | 80 | 88 |
ankle rnds | 12 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 |
heel/toe sts | 28 | 30 | 36 | 40 | 44 |
sts bet yos | 12 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 |
magic length | 9" (23 cm) |
from the Winter 2005 issue of
Interweave Knits