Authors: Ann Budd
Jennifer L. Appleby
A versatile designer, Jennifer Appleby blends style with practicality to create knitwear with rustic elegance. These socks are a perfect example: a fluid, allover cable pattern in a sock-weight yarn provides an upscale touch, while the thicker fabric and “slouch” design make for sturdy, comfortable socks suitable for casual or dressy use. A modern classic.
About 7 (8¼, 9¾)" (18 [21, 25] cm) foot circumference and 8¼ (10, 11¼)" (21 [25.5, 28.5] cm) foot length. To fit a child (woman, man).
Fingering-weight yarn (CYCA #1 Super Fine).
Shown here:
Schoeller-Stahl Zimba Top (80% wool, 20% nylon;
164 yd [150 m]/50 g): #105 celery, 3 (3, 4) balls.
Size 2 (2.75 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.
1614 stitches and 20 rounds = 2" (5 cm) in cable pattern worked in the round.
S
TITCH
G
UIDE
Cable Pattern
(multiple of 8 sts)
Rnds 1 and 2:
Knit.
Rnd 3:
*Sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn, k4; rep from *.
Rnds 4–6:
Knit.
Rnd 7:
*K4, sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn; rep from *.
Rnd 8:
Knit.
Repeat Rnds 1–8 for pattern.
Loosely CO 64 (72, 80) sts. Arrange sts on 3 dpn as foll: 20 (24, 28) sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3; 24 sts on Needle 2. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. *K2, p2; rep from * until piece measures 2½" (6.5 cm) from beg. Work Rows 1–8 of cable patt (see
Stitch Guide
) until piece measures 8 (8, 10)" (20.5 [20.5, 25.5] cm) from CO.
Place first 16 sts of Needle 1 and last 16 sts of Needle 3 onto one needle—32 sts total for heel; rem 32 (40, 48) sts will be worked later for instep. Cut yarn. With WS facing, rejoin yarn to 32 heel sts and purl these sts, dec 4 (4, 0) sts evenly spaced as you go—28 (28, 32) heel sts rem.
Row 1:
(RS) *Sl 1 pwise with yarn in back (wyb), k1; rep from *.
Row 2:
(WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), purl to end.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until flap measures 2 (2¼, 2½)" (5 [5.5, 6.5] cm), ending with a WS row.
Sl 1 pwise wyb, knit to end, dec 4 (0, 0) sts evenly spaced as you go—24 (28, 32) heel sts rem. Work short-rows to shape heel as foll:
Row 1:
(WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p13 (17, 19), p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 2:
(RS) Sl 1 pwise wyb, k5 (9, 9), sl 1, k1, psso, k1, turn.
Row 3:
Sl 1 pwise wyf, p6 (10, 10), p2tog, p1, turn.
Cont in this manner, working 1 more st before dec for 5 (5, 7) more rows—8 (8, 10) short-rows total.
Next row:
(WS) Sl 1, p12 (16, 18), p2tog.
Next row:
Sl 1, k12 (16, 18), sl 1, k1, psso—14 (18, 20) sts rem.
Pick up sts along selvedge edges of heel flap and rejoin for working in the rnd as foll:
Rnd 1:
Place 32 (40, 48) held instep sts onto 1 dpn. With RS facing and Needle 1 (needle holding heel sts), pick up and knit 14 (15, 16) sts along edge of heel flap; with Needle 2, work cable patt as established across 32 (40, 48) instep sts; with Needle 3, pick up and knit 14 (15, 16) sts along other edge of heel flap, then knit first 7 (9, 10)
heel st from Needle 1 again—74 (88, 100) sts total. Place rem 7 (9, 10) heel sts onto Needle 1—21 (24, 26) sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3; 32 (40, 48) sts on Needle 2. Rnd begins at center of heel.
Rnd 2:
On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, work cable patt as established; on Needle 3, ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rnd 3:
Work even as established.
Rep Rnds 2 and 3 until 58 (68, 80) sts rem—13 (14, 16) sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3; 32 (40, 48) sts on Needle 2.
Cont even as established until piece measures about 5 (6, 6¾)" (12.5 [15, 17] cm) from beg of gusset.
Rnd 1:
On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, k8, ssk, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end—12 sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3; 28 sts on Needle 2.
Rnds 2 and 4:
Knit.
Rnd 3:
On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, k2, ssk, k5, ssk, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end—11 sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3; 22 sts on Needle 2.
Sizes medium (large):
Rnd 1:
On Needle 1, knit; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, k5, ssk, k8 (k5, ssk, k5), ssk, k2tog, k8 (k5, k2tog, k5), k2tog, k5, k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, knit—14 (16) sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3; 34 (40) sts on Needle 2.
Rnds 2 and 4:
Knit.
Rnd 3:
On Needle 1, knit; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, k3, ssk, k6 (4), ssk, k2 (k3, ssk, k2), k2tog, k6 (k3, k2tog, k4), k2tog, k3, k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, knit—14 (16) sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3; 28 (32) sts on Needle 2.
All sizes:
Rnd 5:
On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end—40 (52, 60) sts rem; 10 (13, 15) sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3; 20 (26, 30) sts on Needle 2.
Rnd 6:
Knit.
Rep Rnds 5 and 6 until 24 (24, 28) sts rem.
Size small only:
On Needle 1, k3, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, k2, k2tog (last st of Needle 3 and first st of Needle 1)—18 sts rem.
All sizes:
With Needle 3, knit all sts of Needle 1—9 (12, 14) sts each on 2 needles.
Cut yarn, leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) tail. Thread tail on a tapestry needle and use the Kitchener st (see Glossary,
page 123
) to graft sts tog. Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.
from the Fall 2000 issue of
Interweave Knits
Priscilla Gibson-Roberts
While studying handknitted socks from around the world, Priscilla Gibson-Roberts always hoped to find the perfect structure: a well-fitting sock that is durable, flexible in design, and easy to knit and repair. To her surprise, she found the key in a pair of machine-made socks. The store-bought socks fit perfectly, and upon closer examination Priscilla found that her dream sock included short-rows at both heel and toe. Although short-row heels are a handknitting mainstay, short-row toes are uncommon outside machine knitting.
About 8" (20.5 cm) foot circumference and 9" (23 cm) foot length. To fit a woman.
Sportweight yarn (CYCA #2 Fine).
Shown here:
Dale of Norway Tiur (60% mohair, 40% wool; 126 yd [115 m]/50 g): Solid Socks: #4136 red, 3 skeins. Striped Socks: #7053 teal, 2 skeins; #5111 silver, 1 skein.
Upper leg—size 3 (3.25 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Lower leg and foot—size 2 (2.75 mm): set of 5 dpn. Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Tapestry needle.
16 stitches and 20 rows = 2" (5 cm) in stockinette stitch worked in the round on size 2 (2.75 mm) needles.
S
TITCH
G
UIDE
sssp
Slip 3 sts individually kwise, place these 3 sts back onto left needle, take right needle behind these 3 sts and purl them together through their back loops.
Instructions are given below for the socks shown in the photograph. To knit these socks in a different size or gauge, refer to the chart on
page 29
.
With size 3 (3.25 mm) needles and using the old Norwegian method (see Glossary,
page 121
), CO 64 sts. Arrange sts evenly on 4 dpn so that there are 16 sts on each needle. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Rnd begins at the inside of the leg.
Set up ribbing:
K1, *p2, k2; rep from *, end k1. Cont as established, work k2, p2 ribbing until piece measures about 3½" (9 cm) from CO. Change to size 2 (2.75 mm) needles and cont as established until piece measures 7" (18 cm) from CO. Change to St st and work 12 rnds, ending last rnd at end of Needle 4.
The heel is worked back and forth in short-rows on the 32 sts on Needle 1 and Needle 2 for left sock (Needle 3 and Needle 4 for right sock).
Row 1:
(RS) K31, turn work.
Row 2:
Yo backwards (see box "Heel and Toe Construction" on
page 27
), p30 (do not work the last st), turn.
Row 3:
Yo, knit to paired sts made by yo of previous row (the yo will form a loop out of the side of the adjacent st), leaving 3 sts on left needle (i.e., do not knit the pair), turn.
Row 4:
Yo backwards, purl to paired sts made by the yo of the previous row, turn.
Rep these last 2 rows until there are 10 unpaired sts in the center of the heel and 12 sts total bet yarnovers (10 sts between the paired sts plus 1 st from the first paired st on each side), ending with a RS row, but do not turn. This becomes the first row of the heel base.
Row 1:
K1 (the first st of the pair), correct the mount of the yo (sl the yo pwise, enter slipped yo with the left needle tip from front to back to correct the stitch mount, place it on left needle), k2tog (the yo with the first st of the next pair, leaving a yo as the first st on the left needle), turn.
Row 2:
(WS) Yo backwards, purl to paired st made by yo of previous row, purl the first st of the pair, ssp (the yo with the first st of the next pair, leaving a yo as the first st on the left needle; see Glossary,
page 122
), turn.
Row 3:
Yo, knit to the paired st made by yo of previous row, knit the first st of the pair (the next 2 loops will be yos), correct the mount of each of these yos, k3tog (2 yos with the first st of the next pair), turn.
Row 4:
Yo backwards, purl to next yo, (the next 2 loops are yos), sssp (2 yos with the first st of the next pair; see
Stitch Guide
), turn.
Row 5:
Yo, knit to next yo (the next 2 loops will be yos), correct the mount of each of these yos, k3tog (2 yos with the first st of the next pair), turn.
Rep the last 2 rows until all yos of the heel back have been consumed, ending with Row 4. The last turn will bring RS facing. Yo, knit to end of Needle 1—17 sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 2 (16 regular sts plus 1 yo). Knit to the yo at the end of Needle 2, place this yo onto Needle 3 (instep needle), k2tog (the yo plus first st of Needle 3), work to last st on Needle 4, place last st on Needle 4 onto Needle 1 and ssk (last st of Needle 4 plus yo at beg of Needle 1)—64 sts rem. (
Note:
This final dec may appear to form a gap if the sts loosened while the heel was worked. To minimize the gap, work the dec and several more sts on this row onto Needle 4, then reposition the sts on the needles later, or close the gap by picking up 1 st in the gap onto the left needle, place the last st on Needle 4 onto Needle 1, and sssk.)