Cook Like a Rock Star (16 page)

I’m a bean lover but chickpeas are my favorite, so I make them the star of this spicy, satisfying rustic soup. I top off this bowl of comfort with some crispy, crunchy croutons and a drizzle of big fat finishing oil, and it takes me right back to Tuscany!

MISE EN PLACE

Extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, peeled and cut into large dice

2 celery ribs, cut into ¼-inch dice

2 carrots, cut into ¼-inch dice

Kosher salt

2 pinches of crushed red pepper

6 cloves garlic, smashed

3 sprigs of fresh rosemary, leaves finely chopped

1 tablespoon cumin seeds,
toasted and ground

1½ teaspoons coriander seeds,
toasted and ground

1 pound dried chickpeas,
soaked overnight

2 quarts chicken or veggie stock, plus more as needed

2 bay leaves

6 ½-inch slices stale rustic Italian bread, cut into ½-inch cubes

Big fat finishing oil

This recipe is best when you cook your own beans, so plan ahead.

1
Coat the bottom of a large pot with olive oil and add the onion, celery, and carrots. Season with salt and a pinch of red pepper. Bring to medium heat and cook the veggies for 7 to 8 minutes or until they begin to soften. Toss in half of the garlic, half of the rosemary, and the cumin and coriander, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes more.

2
Drain the chickpeas and add them to the pot along with the stock, bay leaves, and 2 cups water. Bring the liquid to a boil (BTB), reduce to a simmer (RTS), and cook for 1½ to 2 hours; at this point the chickpeas should be very soft. Turn off the heat and season the cooking liquid with salt; taste to make sure it’s delicious and reseason if needed.

3
Coat the bottom of a skillet with olive oil and add the remaining garlic, rosemary, and pinch of red pepper. Bring to medium heat and add the bread, cooking until the cubes become golden and crispy, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the croutons from the oil, drain on paper towels, and sprinkle with salt. These little guys will absorb a LOT of oil, but if there is any left in the pan, add it to the pot with the chickpeas.

4
Working in batches, purée the soup in a blender or food processor (OR you can use my favorite piece of kitchen equipment—the food mill) until very smooth. If the soup is too thin for your taste, cook it down; if it’s too thick, add a bit more stock. Taste to make sure the seasoning is perfect, then ladle the soup into serving bowls, top with the croutons, and add a drizzle of big fat finishing oil.

See ya ladle!

TAKING STOCK OF MAKING STOCK

I have found, through the course of my travels, that home cooks are scared to death of stock, which is totally ridiculous because it’s one of the easiest things to make. With my foolproof method in hand, you should never have to reach for a can or a box of it again (unless in a super-pinch). So here’s how it goes: Put carrots, onions, celery, and garlic in a large pot with a little oil, then sweat over medium heat for 7 to 8 minutes or until they start to soften. Add chicken legs and thighs, skin and fat removed. Fill the pot with water and then BTB, RTS, STS (bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, skim the scum).

What do I mean by scum? Well, sometimes you may see some foam and fat on the surface of the stock. My Italian chef friends don’t bother to remove it, they just cook it right back in; it gives the stock more flavor. I have a tendency to agree with this approach, but if you want to be a purist—go for it, skim away. Then simmer the stock for 2 hours, strain it, put it in your recycled Chinese soup containers, toss it in the freezer, and use it for whatever the heck you want to. THAT my friends, is how you make stock.

Oysters on the Half Shell with Prosecco “Sno-Cone”

SERVES: 4 • TIME: ABOUT 2 HOURS, MOSTLY UNATTENDED

This dish is SOOOOO titillating. When you eat these oysters you almost don’t know which direction to turn. The intertwining flavors, textures, and temperatures come together to create a flavor explosion in your mouth. This is one sexy dish.

MISE EN PLACE

2 cups Prosecco or other bubbly wine

½ cup champagne or white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

1 clove garlic, smashed and finely chopped

Pinch of crushed red pepper

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

12 oysters, the freshest available (your favorite variety or a mix)

2 cups rock salt for plating (optional)

1
In a small saucepan combine the Prosecco, vinegar, shallots, garlic, red pepper, sugar, and kosher salt and bring to medium heat. Stir to be sure that all of the sugar and salt have dissolved. Remove from the heat and stir in the thyme.

2
Pour the mixture into a wide flat dish (such as a pie plate) and put it in the freezer. As the mixture begins to freeze, drag a fork through it to break up the ice crystals. Repeat this process every 15 minutes or so until the mixture is completely frozen, 45 minutes to 1 hour. When it’s done it will look like ice shards, kind of like a slushy but a bit more frozen.

3
Scrub the outside of the oysters to remove any sand and grit. If you’re using the rock salt, spread it out on a serving dish. Shuck the oysters and lay them on the salt; top each oyster with the icy granita and serve immediately.

This is the money shot!

A PEARL OF WISDOM ABOUT OYSTERS

When buying oysters, the
same rules
apply as when buying other shellfish. To prepare them, you want to scrub the oysters well to remove any crud or grit. And to make shucking easy, you want to keep the oysters nice and cold. When shucking oysters ALWAYS use an oyster knife—never a paring knife. If you use a paring knife you WILL cut yourself, trust me.

I find this is the easiest way to shuck an oyster: Fold a clean tea towel into thirds lengthwise, lay the oyster on the towel, and fold the towel over the oyster to get a good grip. Lay your hand across the oyster with your thumb next to your palm, not spread across the oyster—if your thumb is spread across the oyster and you slip, you’ll stab yourself. Yikes! With the oyster knife, find the little notch in the smaller end of the oyster where the knife fits in perfectly. Slow and steady wins the race here. Apply steady, even pressure and give the knife a slight twist; the top flat shell will pop and shift—so satisfying! Cup the oyster shell in your hand, being careful not to spill any of the liquor, and with your knife gently work to separate the oyster from the top shell; remove and discard the top. Slide the knife under the oyster so it releases from the bottom shell, then let it snuggle back into place. This technique makes for a diner-friendly oyster-eating experience!

Pumpkin Soup with Allspice Whipped Cream & Fried Leeks

SERVES: 4 TO 6 • TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR

I love this soup because it’s my favorite color and the garnishes bump up the fancy factor! It’s also totally seasonal—what could be more autumnal than a pretty pumpkin soup with spiced whipped cream and crispy leeks?

MISE EN PLACE

FOR THE SOUP

Extra virgin olive oil

2 leeks, white and light green parts only, cut in half lengthwise, washed, and diced

1 large or 2 small carrots, cut into ½-inch dice

2 celery ribs, cut into ½-inch dice

2 cloves garlic, smashed and finely chopped

Kosher salt

2 pounds pumpkin, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice (I recommend a sugar or cheese pumpkin, or in a pinch, butternut squash)

1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice

2 cups white wine

2 quarts chicken or veggie stock

1 thyme bundle, tied with butcher’s twine

2 bay leaves

1 orange, cut in half

FOR THE FRIED LEEKS