Cook Like a Rock Star (35 page)

Perfect Green Veg … Every Time

TIME: ABOUT 20 MINUTES, DEPENDING ON THE VEGETABLE

This is more of a technique than a recipe, and it’s the perfect method for cooking any green vegetable. The technique, called blanching and shocking, is the same no matter what vegetable you’re making; only the cooking time will vary. The idea here is that you PARcook the veg first in boiling water (Get it? Partially cooked), then you stop the cooking process immediately by tossing the whole shootin’ match in salty ice water. Once your veg is parcooked, you can finish it however you like—sautéed in olive oil and garlic, for example, as I do here. This method works for broccoli, broccoli rabe, haricots verts, green beans, sugar snap peas, English peas, fava beans, asparagus … as I said, anything green!

MISE EN PLACE

Kosher salt

Green vegetable, cleaned and prepped as desired

Extra virgin olive oil

1 or 2 cloves garlic or to taste, smashed

Pinch of crushed red pepper

1
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil.

2
Set up a large bowl of well-salted ice water.

3
Toss the veg into the boiling water and let the water return to a boil. As soon as it does, test the veg for doneness by tasting a piece. If it is cooked as you like it, carry on—if not, continue to cook it for another minute or two. (How crisp or tender you like your vegetables is a matter of taste—YOU BE THE JUDGE!)

4
When the veg is cooked to your liking, remove it from the boiling water and plunge it IMMEDIATELY into the ice water; swish it around so it cools completely. When the veggies are COLD, remove them from the ice water and let the water drain off or pat them dry—otherwise they’ll splatter when they hit the hot oil. (Everything up to this point can be done ahead of time—like yesterday.)

5
Coat a large sauté pan with olive oil, toss in the garlic and red pepper, and bring the pan to medium-high heat. When the garlic is golden and very aromatic, 2 to 3 minutes, remove it from the pan and ditch it—it has fulfilled its garlic destiny!

6
Toss the veggies into the pan, stir to coat them in the oil, and cook until just warmed through. Season with salt and taste to make sure they’re delicious.

Green veg = great veg!

Cannellini Beans with Pancetta & Rosemary

SERVES: 4 TO 6 • TIME: ABOUT 1¾ HOURS (AFTER OVERNIGHT SOAKING), MOSTLY UNATTENDED

I don’t know if my love of beans comes from living in Tuscany or if I was Tuscan in another life, but I adore beans. And when I want a stick-to-your-ribs side dish, I immediately think of Tuscan white beans. They’re creamy and delicious, and they say, “Put me with pancetta!” And I say, “Sure, I’d be happy to.” Then I toss in a bit of rosemary (but sage would be SOOOOO good here too!) and serve these with a yummy porky main—or just on their own for lunch.

MISE EN PLACE

FOR COOKING THE BEANS

1 pound cannellini beans,
soaked overnight

1 onion, cut in half, skin removed, hairy end left on to keep it in one piece

1 large or two small carrots

2 celery ribs, broken in half

3 cloves garlic

1 thyme bundle, tied with butcher’s twine

3 bay leaves

1 piece slab bacon skin, prosciutto skin, or a couple slices of bacon

Kosher salt

FOR FINISHING THE BEANS

Extra virgin olive oil

½ cup pancetta, cut into ¼-inch dice

3 cloves garlic, smashed and finely chopped

3 sprigs of fresh rosemary, leaves finely chopped

Pinch of crushed red pepper

Due to the soaking time, this is definitely a plan-ahead recipe.

TO COOK THE BEANS

1
Drain the beans, put them in a large pot, and cover them with water by at least 2 inches. Add the onion, carrots, celery, garlic, thyme bundle, bay leaves, and bacon skin.

2
Bring the pot to a boil (BTB) and reduce to a simmer (RTS); cook for about 1 hour or until ALL the beans are soft, adding more water if it reduces too quickly. To test the beans for doneness, do the 5-Bean Test: Bite into five beans; if they are all soft, then the pot is done. (Beans do not all cook at the same rate, so tasting at least five is important.)

3
Remove the pot from the heat, season the water generously with salt, and let sit for 15 minutes. If you’re using them right away, strain the beans, reserving at least 1 cup of their cooking liquid. If not using them immediately, refrigerate them in their liquid.

TO FINISH THE BEANS

1
Coat a large, straight-sided sauté pan with olive oil and toss in the pancetta. Cook until brown and crispy, 7 to 8 minutes.

2
Add the garlic, rosemary, and red pepper and cook for 2 to 3 more minutes, or until very aromatic.

3
Add the beans and the reserved bean water (if you didn’t remember to save the bean water, use 1 cup chicken stock or water). Cook until the liquid has almost completely evaporated. Taste and season with salt if needed.

Bean-a-licious!

So … if you forgot to soak your beans last night, use the “quick soak” method: Put your beans in a pot and cover them with at least 2 inches of water. Bring the pot to a boil (BTB), turn off the heat, and let the pot sit until the water has cooled. Proceed with the recipe as if you had soaked the beans overnight!

Swiss Chard with Pancetta & Baby Turnips

SERVES: 4 • TIME: ABOUT 45 MINUTES

As a kid I remember my grandmother talking about how much she loved Swiss chard, but the weird thing is, I never saw her eat it—ever. But she always had it in the garden and she attributed her good health, even in her old age, to eating Swiss chard. Coincidentally, her name was Gramma Green!

I find Swiss chard to be one of the most interesting and delicious greens around. Here I use both the stems and the leaves and mix them with turnips. People give turnips a bad rap, but I think it’s just because they haven’t experienced them. I realize I’m combining two ingredients in this dish that people might not think of eating on their own, let alone together, but I’m on a mission to make Swiss chard and turnips popular. And if any dish with chard and turnips can turn you on, I’m betting this one can!

MISE EN PLACE

Kosher salt

1 bunch of baby turnips, tops removed

Extra virgin olive oil

½ cup pancetta, cut into ¼-inch dice

2 cloves garlic, smashed

Pinch of crushed red pepper

1 bunch of Swiss chard, stems removed and cut into ½-inch lengths, leaves cut into 1-inch ribbons

½ cup
chicken or veggie stock

1
Bring a medium pot of super-salty water to a boil. How do you know if it’s super-salty? TASTE IT! Toss in the baby turnips, let the water come back to a boil, and cook until fork-tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain the turnips and let cool.

2
When the turnips are cool enough to handle, use a clean kitchen towel to rub the skin off. Cut into quarters and reserve.