Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects (38 page)
Read Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects Online
Authors: Amy Butler
Step 11. Make and attach the holder for the pens.
a.
First, fold the pen holder panel in half lengthwise with
Right
sides together. Stitch a
1
/
2
″ seam down the length of the pen holder. Turn the pen holder
Right
side out and press it flat. Topstitch a
1
/
2
″ seam down both long sides of the pen holder, backstitching at each end.
b.
Then, on the
Right
side of the pen holder, mark the following increments down both sides of the holder:
1
/
2
″, 1
5
/
8
″, 1
3
/
4
″, and 2
3
/
4
″.
(
FIGURE 11B
)
c.
On the
Right
side of the lining panel, measure and mark 3
3
/
4
″ in from the raw edge on the left side, across the stitch line for the bottom of your checkbook that you made in step 10e, and make a mark. Then measure 3
3
/
4
″ in again across the bottom raw edge and make another mark. Using a ruler and a chalk pencil, line up the 2 marks and draw a line connecting them. This guideline will be used to place the pen holder.
d.
Fold the top short end of the pen holder at the
1
/
2
″ mark, back toward the
Wrong
side, and press it in place. Then, place the top folded edge of the pen holder onto the
Right
side of the lining panel, even with the stitching line you made in step 10e and to the inside of the guideline you made in step 11c. Stitch along the folded end at the stitching line, backstitching at each end.
e.
Measure down on the guideline you made in step 11c and mark at the following increments:
1
/
2
″,
5
/
8
″, and 1
1
/
4
″. Match up the 1
5
/
8
″ mark on the pen holder with the
1
/
2
″ mark on the lining panel and pin it in place. Stitch across the pen holder at the 1
5
/
8
″ mark, backstitching at each end.
(
FIGURE 11E, F, G
)
f.
Match up the 1
3
/
4
″ mark on the pen holder with the
5
/
8
″ mark on the lining panel and pin it in place. Stitch across at the 1
3
/
4
″ mark, backstitching at each end.
(
FIGURE 11E, F, G
)
g.
Then, match up the last mark (2
3
/
4
″) on the pen holder with the last mark (1
1
/
4
″) on the lining panel and pin it in place. Stitch across at the matched marks, backstitching at each end.
(
FIGURE 11E, F, G
)
Step 12. Make and attach the lipstick holders to the center of the lining panel.
a.
Fold the lining panel in half across the width, matching up the top and bottom raw edges, and gently press a crease. Open up the lining panel. Measure 3
1
/
4
″ in along the center crease from each side raw edge and make a mark.
b.
Then, cut a 2
3
/
4
″-long piece of extra-wide, double-folded bias tape and edge stitch
*
down both long folded edges of the tape, backstitching at each end. Fold the piece of bias tape in half, matching up the raw ends. Stitch a
1
/
4
″ seam along the matched raw ends, backstitching at each end.
*
See page 170
for an explanation of edge stitching.
c.
Starting at the mark on the left side you made in step 12a along the center crease on the lining panel, place the first piece of bias tape with the cut ends attached so the stitching is along the center crease and to the inside of the 3
1
/
4
″ mark. Then, pin the bias tape in place. Attach by stitching across the bias tape on the center crease, backstitching at each end.
(
FIGURE 12C
)
d.
Follow the instructions in steps 12b and 12c to attach another 2
3
/
4
″-long piece of bias tape onto the right side of the lining.
Step 13. Finish the outside raw edges on the lining panel.
a.
Machine baste a
3
/
4
″ seam completely around the lining panel, slightly rounding out the 4 outside corners. This will keep the folded pockets in place and act as a guideline to turn under the raw edges.
(
FIGURE 12C
)
b.
Using your scissors, trim away any bulk in the seam allowances where the pockets are folded.
c.
On the interfacing side of the lining panel, starting at the top left corner, measure down 6
3
/
4
″ and 7
3
/
4
″ along the side raw edge and mark these increments on both the left and right side raw edges. Clip into the seam allowance
3
/
4
″ at each of these marks on both the right and left sides, making sure not to clip the basting stitch you made in step 13a.
d.
On both sides of the lining panel, fold the raw edges
1
/
4
″ under between the clips and press. Then, fold the edge under another
1
/
2
″ and press. Topstitch across the inner folded edge. (This area will not be stitched to the exterior clutch. This finished edge will fall on the 1″ spine of the clutch. It will allow the zipper room between the panels.)
(
FIGURE 13D
)
e.
With the interfacing side of the lining panel facing up, fold in the side raw edges at the basting stitch line and press. Pin the raw edges under around the areas where the seam allowance is thicker and will not stay in place, such as at the pocket folds and the 4 corners.
Step 14. Attach the lining onto the inside of the clutch.
a.
Open up the exterior part of the clutch and place it with the Timtex side facing up and the front of the exterior clutch (the ruffled edge) at the top. Then, place the top folded edge of the lining panel close to the inside of the zipper on the inside of the exterior part of the clutch and pin it in place. Place the side and bottom folded edges of the lining tucked up close to the inside of the zipper. Pin the rest of the lining in place. The finished edges on the sides of the lining panel will line up with the 1″ finished edges on the sides of the exterior part of the clutch. This is the spine on the clutch.
(
FIGURE 14A
)
b.
Starting on the left side of the clutch at the top crease for the spine on the clutch, topstitch close to the folded edge, up both sides, and along the top folded edge of the lining panel, stopping at the top crease on the other side for the spine on the clutch and backstitching at each end.
NOTE:
An alternative to both steps 14b and 14c would be to slip stitch the lining panel in place by hand, which would eliminate a topstitching line that would otherwise show through on the exterior of the clutch.
c.
Open up the flap to keep it out of your way while attaching the lining onto the exterior of the clutch. Starting on the right-hand side of the clutch at the bottom crease for the spine on the clutch, topstitch close to the folded edge, down both sides and along the bottom folded edge of the lining, stopping at the bottom crease on the other side of the spine on the clutch, and backstitching at each end.
Step 15. Make the handle.
*
*
See page 170
for an explanation of how to make a drawstring (you’ll use the same process to make your handle).
a.
Fold the handle panel in half lengthwise with
Wrong
sides together, and press a center crease. Then, unfold up the handle.
b.
Fold the raw edges in to meet the center crease with the
Wrong
sides together. Then, fold the handle in half again at the center crease, enclosing the raw edges, and press.
c.
Topstitch down both sides of the handle, close to the folded edges, backstitching at each end.
d.
Fold the finished handle in half across the width, matching up the raw ends. Then, feed 1″ of the first raw end of the handle through the zipper pull, folding the handle back, and pin it close to the end of the handle.
(
FIGURE 15D
)
e.
Now, tuck the second raw edge under the first end of the handle at the folded edge and pin it in place. Finish the first raw end by folding
1
/
4
″ under toward the inside of the handle and pin it in place. This will enclose both raw ends of the handle.
f.
Stitch a seam across the folded edge on the first end of the handle and again
3
/
8
″ in from the first stitching toward the zipper pull, backstitching at each end of these 2 seams. Attach the handle to the zipper pull by clipping the clasp through the hole on the end of your zipper pull, and you have a handle for your Fashion Checkbook Clutch.
CHAPTER 6
PERSONAL STYLE
Projects
It’s the accessories that make the outfit. And you
always
need new accessories to express your ever-changing preferences and moods. Here’s a bunch of fabulous ways to spice up your wardrobe. We all love handbags, and there’s something for everyone in this chapter—a clutch bag with fabric flower for dressing up, a leather-handled shoulder bag for busy days on the go, and a funky patchwork handbag for anytime—all create different style impressions depending on your distinctive fabric choices. You can also accent your look with the beaded sash. You’ll turn heads wherever you go.
CLUTCH HANDBAG WITH FABRIC FLOWER
FINISHED SIZE: 17
1
/
2
″ WIDE × 7″ TALL
With its lovely fabric fower, this elegant evening clutch (see photo,
page 145)
can double as a daytime run-around bag. It’s wonderfully versatile—you can make it in black for evening, gray for business, or a flouncy floral print for a springtime garden party.
CLUTCH HANDBAG WITH FABRIC FLOWER
FABRICS
•
1
/
2
yard (54″-wide) home-decor-weight cotton for the exterior and fabric flower
•
1
/
2
yard (44″-wide) light- to mid-weight coordinating cotton for the lining and divider
•
3
/
4
yard (60″-wide) cotton batting
•
1
/
4
yard (22″-wide) Timtex
*
or other extra-heavy interfacing
• 2
3
/
4
″ (
3
/
4
″-wide) sew-on Velcro
*
See page 172
for an explanation of Timtex
.
OTHER SUPPLIES
• Coordinating thread
• Scissors
• Yardstick or ruler
• Chalk pencil or fabric marker
• Straight pins
• Turning tool (such as a closed pair of scissors)
• Hand sewing needle
• Hot glue gun and glue
NOTES
• All seams are
1
/
2
″ unless otherwise stated. (The
1
/
2
″ seam allowance is included in all cutting measurements and the pattern pieces.)
• Preshrink your fabric by washing, drying, and pressing it before starting your project. To wash Timtex after completing your project, machine wash warm, then reshape your project and air dry. Your project will press back into shape with a steam iron. Once you steam the project, support it with wadded-up tissue paper or a folded towel while air drying in order to keep the shape that you want.
Step 1. Cut out all pieces from the fabric.
