Amy Butler's In Stitches: More Than 25 Simple and Stylish Sewing Projects (41 page)

FIGURE 2A

FIGURE 2D

FIGURE 3A

FIGURE 3C

d.
Now, using your yardstick, match up the bottom end of the dotted line on the left end pattern piece with the bottom end of the dotted line on the right end pattern pieces. Using your chalk pencil, mark down the side of your yardstick, lining up both ends. (You will have to move your yardstick to finish drawing the line.) Pin the fabric together inside the guideline you made between the pattern pieces at each end of the sash. The marked sash is 6″ wide × 47″ long.
(FIGURE 2D)

e.
Cut the sash out along the end of the pattern piece and along the chalk guideline you made in step 2d. Do not cut along the dotted line or on the folded edge of the fabric.

f.
Carefully remove the pattern pieces and pins.

Step 3. Make the sash.

a.
First, open up the sash panel and place it with the
Right
side facing up. Then, cut a 9″ piece of beaded trim. Fold the tab section of the trim
¹
/
₂
″ in on each end and pin the folded ends in place. Starting on the left end of the sash, place the trim below the center crease (folded bias edge) and along the raw edge on the slanted side, with the beaded trim facing inside the panel. The other folded end of the trim will stop
¹
/
₂
″ in from the long side raw edge. Pin the trim in place. Using the zipper foot on your machine, stitch across the tab close to the inside edge, backstitching at each end. Repeat this step to cut and attach another 9″ piece of beaded trim to the end on the right side of your sash.
(FIGURE 3A)

b.
Fold the sash panel in half lengthwise with
Wrong
sides together, matching up the raw edges on the long sides and each of the slanted sides. Tuck the beaded trim inside the sash and pin the raw edges in place. Starting at the folded edge on the sash, stitch a
¹
/
₂
″ seam across both slanted ends and down the long side, leaving a 6″ opening in the center of the long side raw edge, backstitching at each end.

c.
Using your scissors, trim in the seam allowance
*
at the 2 pointed ends and at the angled corners at each end of the sash, making sure not to clip the stitching.
(FIGURE 3C)

*
See page 172
for an explanation of trimming in the seam allowance
.

d.
Pull the
Right
side of the sash through the 6″ opening, using a turning tool
*
to push out the corners of the sash, and press.

*
See page 172
for an explanation of a turning tool
.

e.
Then, turn under the raw edges of the opening, press, and pin the opening closed. Slip stitch the opening closed by hand and press your sash flat.

* See
page 171
for an explanation of slip stitching.

SIMPLE LEATHER-HANDLED SHOULDER BAG

FINISHED SIZE: 12
³
/
₄
″ WIDE × 15
¹
/
₄
″ LONG (EXCLUDING HANDLES)

Here’s another simple project with very high style points. Its organic shape makes for a kinetic bag that really shows off your favorite fabric. This will be the one you carry everywhere.

FABRICS

• 1 yard (44″- or 60″-wide) sturdy cotton fabric

• 2 (
¹
/
₂
″ × 32″) leather strips

OTHER SUPPLIES

• Coordinating thread

• Button/carpet thread, any color

• Yardstick or ruler

• Chalk pencil or fabric marker

• Scissors

• Straight pins

• Turning tool (such as a closed pair of scissors)

• Leather hand sewing needle (size 3)

• Thimble

• Masking tape (optional)

NOTES

• All seams are
¹
/
₂
″ unless otherwise stated. (The
¹
/
₂
″ seam allowance is included in all cutting measurements provided.)

• Preshrink your fabric by washing, drying, and pressing it before starting your project.

Step 1. Cut out all pieces from the fabric.

First, fold your fabric,
Right
sides together, matching the selvage edges,
*
and place it on a hard, flat surface with the folded edge toward you. Measure and mark the dimensions below directly onto the
Wrong
side of the fabric, using a yardstick and a chalk pencil. Then, using your scissors to cut through both layers, cut out the panels following the marked lines.

• Cut 2 bag panels: 14″ wide × 32″ long

*
See page 171
for an explanation of a selvage edge.

Step 2. Prepare the panels for stitching.

a.
Place the bag panels with the
Right
sides together on a hard, flat surface.

b.
Using your yardstick or ruler, measure in from the top left, short, raw edge 11″ and make a mark with your chalk pencil on the long raw edge. Now, repeat this step to measure in 11″ from the bottom left, top right, and bottom right short, raw edges. You will have made 4 marks in all.

c.
Now, beginning at the top right corner, pin the bag panels together along one of the long raw edges, stopping at the first 11″ mark. Begin pinning again at the second 11″ mark and pin the remainder of the long raw edge. Do not pin between the 11″ marks.
(FIGURE 2C, D, E)

d.
Pin the bag panels together at the short raw edge on the left side.
(FIGURE 2C, D, E)

e.
Then, pin the second long raw edge together in the same manner as the first, but leave the short raw edge on the right side open. Your bag panels will have a 10″ opening at the center of each long raw edge.
(FIGURE 2C, D, E)

Step 3. Stitch the panels together and make the bag.

a.
First, stitch the panels together with a
¹
/
₂
″ seam along the pinned raw edges, backstitching at each end. Leave the 10″ opening at the center of each long raw edge unstitched and leave the short raw edge on the right side open.

b.
Press the seams open. One way to do this is to lay the attached bag panels flat on your ironing board, and, while leaving the bottom panel flat against the board, pull back the seam allowance on the top panel, flatten it against the
Wrong
side of the top bag panel, and press.

FIGURE 2C, D, E

FIGURE 3D