Winter Gatherings (4 page)

Also called Swedes or yellow or waxed turnips, rutabagas are actually a cross between regular turnips and a wild cabbage. They can grow to an admirable girth, and their skins are often shellacked with thick wax to give them a longer shelf life. Rutabagas are very popular in New England, and many a holiday meal isn’t considered complete without mashed “turnips.” However, when I have tried to make my favorite rutabaga dishes on the West Coast with small, unwaxed rutabagas, I have found them impossible to cook to tenderness, even after boiling for hours. This could be because rutabagas become pithy and hard when grown during warm weather. So hold out for “authentic” big old rutabagas grown in cold climes.

Escarole and Farro Soup

Makes 6 to 8 servings

This satisfying soup is similar to minestrone and other rustic Italian soups. Often I’ll start the soup by sautéing a few ounces of chopped pancetta or prosciutto in the oil before adding the vegetables, but it really isn’t necessary. Think ahead with the farro, which is similar to wheat berries, and soak it overnight before cooking to reduce the cooking time.

¾ cup farro (see Note)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

2 medium carrots, chopped

2 celery ribs, chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

6 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use low-sodium canned broth

One 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes, with juice

One 12-ounce head escarole, well rinsed, hard stems removed, and coarsely chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Chopped fresh parsley, for serving

Freshly grated Parmesan, for serving

• 1.
  The night before making the soup, put the farro in a bowl and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Let stand in a cool place or refrigerate for at least 12 hours.
  
• 2.
  Drain the farro in a wire sieve. Bring a medium saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the farro and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the farro is tender, about 30 minutes. Drain the farro and set aside.
  
• 3.
  Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Stir in the stock and the tomatoes with their juice. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 45 minutes.
  
• 4.
  Add the cooked farro and escarole. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the escarole is very tender, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
  
• 5.
  Serve hot, sprinkling each serving with parsley, and with the cheese on the side.
  

Note

Farro is a very old type of wheat that is still grown, as it has been for centuries, in Italy. It is very similar to wheat berries, which can be substituted.

Jerusalem Artichoke and Mushroom Soup

Makes 6 servings

Never underestimate the element of surprise in your menus—it is always interesting to expose your guests to new ingredients. Also known as sunchokes, Jerusalem artichokes are hardly new, but they aren’t as popular as they could be, and most guests will be guessing at this soup’s main ingredient. Their earthiness pairs nicely with mushrooms, and the soup is never better than when enjoyed with a glass of Pinot Noir.

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

2 pounds Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and cut crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices

1 large onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary, plus more for garnish, or ½ teaspoon crumbled dried rosemary

6 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth

10 ounces cremini mushrooms, sliced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1.
  Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the Jerusalem artichokes and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, abut 10 minutes.
  
• 2.
  Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and rosemary, and cook until the garlic gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Stir in the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the artichokes are barely tender, about 20 minutes.
  
• 3.
  Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Stir into the soup and cook until the artichokes are very tender, about 10 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
  
• 4.
  Serve hot, topping each serving with a sprinkle of fresh rosemary.
  

Chicken, Potato, and Leek Soup

Makes 6 to 8 servings

The trio of chicken, potatoes, and leeks has often been turned into soup, but most cooks go for a delicate version that is one step away from being vichyssoise. This one is much more robust and appropriate for a winter meal, almost like roast chicken in a bowl. The soup has plenty of flavor with water alone, but use chicken stock if you prefer it.

4 bacon slices, coarsely chopped

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

Two 12-ounce chicken breast halves with skin and bone

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 large leeks, white and pale green parts only, chopped (about 2 cups)

8 cups water (or substitute chicken stock if you prefer)

1 large baking potato, such as russet or Burbank, peeled and diced

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme or ¾ teaspoon dried thyme

½ cup heavy cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1.
  Cook the bacon and oil together in a large saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp and browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain, leaving the fat in the saucepan.
  
• 2.
  Add the chicken to the fat, skin side down. Cook until the skin is deeply browned, about 4 minutes. Turn and cook the other side until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
  
• 3.
  Pour off any fat in the saucepan. Add the butter to the saucepan and return to medium heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, scraping up any browned bits in the bottom of the saucepan, until tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in the water with the potato and thyme. Return the chicken to the saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the chicken is cooked through and the potato is tender, about 25 minutes.
  
• 4.
  Transfer the chicken to a cutting board. Remove the skin and bones and coarsely chop the meat. Set aside.
  
• 5.
  Add the cream to the soup and heat until piping hot, but do not boil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. In batches, puree the soup in a blender and return to the saucepan.
  
• 6.
  Serve hot, topping each serving with some of the chicken and bacon.
  

“Stuffed Cabbage” Soup

Makes 6 to 8 servings

When I first moved to New York, I lived in the East Village, which was dotted with Eastern European coffee shops. Each place featured stuffed cabbage as a cheap daily special, and I quickly learned to both love it and make my own. When I don’t have the time for rolling and stuffing the cabbage, I make this soup that has all of the flavors, but is less labor-intensive.

M
EATBALLS

1 large egg

3 tablespoons dried unflavored bread crumbs

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound ground round beef

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

S
OUP

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

2 celery ribs, chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

4 cups packed coarsely chopped green cabbage (about 1 pound)

4 cups beef stock, preferably homemade, or use low-sodium canned broth

One 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes in puree

2 cups water

½ teaspoon dried thyme

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 bay leaf

1/3 cup long-grain rice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sour cream, for serving

• 1.
  To make the meatballs, beat the egg in a medium bowl. Add the bread crumbs, salt, and pepper and mix together. Add the beef and mix lightly but thoroughly with your hands. Roll into 16 meatballs.
  
• 2.
  Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. In batches, add the meatballs and cook, turning occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate, leaving the fat in the pot.
  
• 3.
  To make the soup, add the oil to the fat in the pot. Add the onion, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Add the cabbage and stir well. Add the stock, tomatoes and their puree, water, thyme, sugar, vinegar, and bay leaf, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the meatballs and cook until they show no sign of pink when pierced in the center, about 15 minutes.
  
• 4.
  Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the rice and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes. Drain in a wire sieve and rinse under cold running water.
  
• 5.
  Stir the cooked rice into the soup. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
  
• 6.
  Serve hot, with a dollop of sour cream on each serving.