The French Way (64 page)

61
. Capucine Lorai, “La malédiction d'Euro Disney,”
Le Point
, 5 August 2004, 56; John Tagliabue, “Thrill Rides for Investors,”
New York Times
, 4 July 2007, i, 6.

62
. Olivier de Bosredon, quoted in Tim O'Brien, “Parc Astérix Heading in New Direction with New Rides,”
Amusement Business
, 18 May 1992, 1.

63
. Nicolas Perrard, quoted in John Tagliabue, “Paris Journal: A Comic-Strip Gaul Valiantly Battles Disney,”
New York Times
, 15 August, 1995, A4.

64
. Nicolas Perrard, quoted in John Tagliabue, “International Business: Step Right Up, Monsieur!”
New York Times
, 23 August 1995, Di.

65
. Jean Marie Deroy, “Rentrée tranquille au parc Astérix,”
Le Monde
, 14 April 1992, 17.

66
. Hervé Bentégeat, “Parcs de loisirs,”
Le Point
, 30 December 1995, 41-43. Tim O'Brien, “With a Variety of Markets Europe Holds Great Potential,”
Amusement Business
, 17 August 1998, 16, counts over one hundred parks with a total of 43 million visitors per year.

67
. Steven Greenhouse, “McDonald's Tries Paris, Again,”
New York Times
, 12 June, 1988, sec. 3, p. 1; Love,
McDonald's
, 409-11.

68
. Economist Intelligence Unit, “Special Report No. 2: Fast Food in France,”
Marketing in Europe: Food, Drink, Tobacco
296 (1987): 37-49; Priscilla Andreiev, “Dayan Prepares O'Kitch,”
Restaurant Business Magazine
, 10 April 1984, 264; Priscilla Andreiev, “Expanding European Markets,”
Restaurant Business Magazine
, 1 November 1984, 152.

69
. Michael Mueller, “European Fast Food,”
Restaurant Business Magazine
, 1 May 1990, 90; “French Fast Food Boom Continues,”
Eurofood
, April 1993, 6.

70
. Economist Intelligence Unit, “Fast Food in France,” 37.

71
. Ibid., 40.

72
. Love,
McDonald's
, 436-37.

73
. Steve Barnes, quoted in Love,
McDonald's
, 434. For McDonald's global activities see Love,
McDonald's
, 413-56; and James L. Watson, ed.,
Golden Arches East
(Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press, 1997).

74
. Pascale Krémer, “Le hamburger n'a pas encore détroné le jambon-beurre,”
Le Monde
, 20 January 1995, 14.

75
. Rick Fantasia, “Fast Food in France,”
Theory and Society
24 (1995), 215-29.

76
. In 1989, 83 percent of paying customers at fast food restaurants were under thirty-four years of age, according to a marketing survey; see Fantasia, “Fast Food in France,” 217.

77
. HervéJannic, “Les Français craignent l'envahissement américain,”
L'Expansion
, 2-15 June 1994, 53.

78
. Barry James, “Big Macs Watch Out,”
International Herald Tribune
, 23 October 1992, 9; Suzanne Daly, “With ABC's of Dining, France Raises Epicures,”
New York Times
, 27 October 2001, A4.

79
. Jean-Yves Nau, “A l'école de bon goût,”
Le Monde
, 17 October 1991, 16; Françoise Chirot, “Paris gastronomie l'école des goûts,”
Le Monde
, 4 July 1993, 22; Judith Valente, “The Land of Cuisine Sees Taste Besieged by ‘le Big Mac,'”
Wall Street Journal
, 25 May 1994, Ai.

80
. Denis Hennequin, Jean-Pierre Petit, and Philippe Labbé,
McDo se met à table
(Paris: Plon, 2002), 33.

81
. Anonymous spokeswoman, quoted in Rone Tempest, “U.S. Firms in France try Counterattack,”
Los Angeles Times
, 27 November 1992, A6.

82
. “Burger King Bids Adieu to France,”
Eurofood
, 14 August 1997, 9.

83
. Jean-Michel Normand, “McDonald's, critiqué mais toujours frequenté,”
Le Monde
, 24 September 1999, 29.

84
. Laure Belot and François Bostnavaron, “McDonald's doit changer,”
Le Monde
, 27 January 1999, 18.

85
. “McDonald's Steps Up Rate of French Expansion,”
Eurofood
, 28 February 1996, 10.

86
. Economist Intelligence Unit, “Fast Food in France,” 37-49.

87
. This analysis is based on the work of Rick Fantasia. See Fantasia, “Fast Food in France”; and Rick Fantasia, “Everything and Nothing: The Meaning of Fast Food and Other American Cultural Goods in France,”
Tocqueville Review
15, no. 2 (1994): 57-88.

88
. Love,
McDonald's
, 442-45.

89
. Marianne Debouzy, “Working for McDonald's, France: Resistance to the Americanization ofWork,”
International Labor and Working Class History
70 (2006): 126-42.

90
. For the effects of McDonald's on consumers—e.g., eating habits, standards of hygiene—outside Europe, see Watson,
Golden Arches East.

91
. Economist Intelligence Unit, “Fast Food in France,” 38. See also Paul Moreira, “De la Poule-au-pot au tandoori,” in
Nourritures
, ed. Fabrice Piault (Paris: Autrement, 1989), 107-ii.

92
. Hennequin et al.,
McDo se met à table
, 49.

93
. Jean-Luc Volatier,
Le repas traditionnel se porte encore bien
, Report No. 132 (Paris: Centre de recherche pour l'étude et l'observation des conditions de vie, 30 January 1999); Krémer, “Le hamburger n'a pas encore détroné le jambon-beurre”; Véronique Cauhapé, “Les traditions de la table résistent au fast-food,”
Le Monde
, 19 February 1999, 25.

94
. Pascale Hébel and Gloria Calamassi Tran,
La Restauration hors foyer en 1994
, vol. 2,
Consommations alimentaires
, Collection des rapports no. 154 (Paris: Centre de recherche pour l'étude et l'observation des conditions de vie, September 1994), 144.

95
. MKG Consulting,
“2003: une année morose pour la restauration” HTR Magazine
, 2003,
http://www.htrmagazine.com/site_web/htr/fr/rubriques.asp?numero_mag=112&code_depeche=559
.

96
. Amanda Friedman, “Let Them Eat Sandwiches,”
Nation's Restaurant News
, ii October 1999, 94.

97
. See José Bové and François Dufour,
Le Monde n'est pas une marchandise: des paysans contre la malbouffe
(Paris: Éditions La Découverte, 2000); Roger Cohen, “Fearful over the Future, Europe Seizes Food,”
New York Times
, 29 August 1999, sec. 4, pp. 1, 3; Charles Trueheart, “A Beefwith More than Big Mac,”
Washington Post
, 1 July 2000, 1. For the success of Bové in transforming the cause of marginal farmers into popular resistance to globalization, see Sarah Waters, “Globalization, the Confédération paysanne, and Symbolic Power,”
French Politics, Culture and Society
28 (2010), 96-117.

98
. Cohen, “Fearful over the Future.”

99
. Alain Duhamel, quoted in Cohen, “Fearful over the Future.”

100
. Suzanne Daly, “French Turn Vandal into Hero against U.S.,”
New York Times
, 1 July 2000, Ai.

101
. Debouzy, “Working for McDonald's, France,” 128.

102
. Christophe Gallaz, “Comment s'est fabriqué l' ‘effet Bové,'”
Le Monde
, 7 July 2000, 15.

103
. Alain Rollat, “Vive le roquefort libre!”
Le Monde
, 9 September 1999, 32, quoted in Philip Gordon and Sophie Meunier,
The French Challenge: Adapting to Globalization
(Washington, DC: Brookings Institution Press, 2001), 53.

104
. “Chirac Adds Voice to McDonald's Flap,” United Press International, 17 September 1999.

105
. John Tagliabue, “McDonald's Gets a Lesson in, Well, the French Fry,”
New York Times
, 11 December 1999, 1.

106
. Jean-Michel Normand, “Trois questions à Jean-Pierre Petit,”
Le Monde
, 24 September 1999, 29.

107
. Jack Greenberg, “McAtlas Shrugged,” Interview with Moisés Naim,
Foreign Policy
, May-June 2001, 26-37.

108
. Normand, “Trois questions à Jean-Pierre Petit.”

109
. Jean-Michel Normand, “Un vrai danger pour le fast-food: la ‘ringardisation,'”
Le Monde
, 24 September 1999, 29.

110
. “Burger and Fries à la française,”
Economist
, 17 April 2004, 60-61; Carol Matlack and Pallavi Gogoi, “What's This? The French Love McDonald's?”
Business Week
, 13 January 2003, 50.

111
. Jennifer Willging, “Of GMOs, McDomination and Foreign Fat: Contemporary Franco-American Food Fights,”
French Cultural Studies
19 (2008): 211.

112
. Hennequin et al.,
McDo se met à table.

113
. Marian Burros, “McDonald's France Says Slow Down on the Fast Food,”
New York Times
, 30 October 2002, C7.

114
. Tony Karon, “Adieu, Ronald McDonald,”
Time
, 24 January 2002,
http://www.time.com/time/columnist/karon/article/0,9565,196925,00.html
.

115
. John Tagliabue, “A McDonald's Ally in Paris,”
New York Times
, 20 June 2006, Ci, 5.

116
. “How a Frenchman is Reviving McDonald's in Europe,”
Economist
, 27 January 2007, 82; Julia Werdigier, “McDonald's, but with Flair,”
New York Times
, 25 August 2007, i, 4.

117
. MKG Consulting,
2003;
“Delicious Irony,”
Economist
, 27 April 2002, 65.

118
. Data from
Le Figaro
cited in Anne Swardson, “A Paris Tradition Gets Sacked,”
Washington Post
, 12 January 1998, A01.

119
. For the “cosmopolitisme alimentaire” thesis, see Claude Fischler,
L'Homnivore: le goût, la cuisine et le corps
(Paris: Éditions Odile Jacob, 1990), 212-17.

120
. For example, Gérard Pélisson, one of the founders of the Fondation Brillat-Savarin, an association created in 1986 for the protection of the national culinary patrimony, was also co-manager of a hotel group that owned burger outlets and
viennoiseries;
see Fantasia, “Fast Food in France,” 231. Traditional restaurants and fast food had, of course, some differences: the one that most upset the former was the tax structure of the value-added tax, largely imposed by the EU, which weighed far more heavily on meals eaten at classic restaurants than at fast food outlets. In 1999, a thousand chefs wearing white aprons and tocques marched on the National Assembly trying, to no avail, to get the government to equalize the tax; see Charles Trueheart, “French Chefs Shell Police with Eggs,”
Washington Post
, 12 October 1999, A13.

121
. Robert Belleret, “La bataille du goût contre la ‘malbouffe,'”
Le Monde
, 14 November 1999, 10.

122
. Sophie Laurent, “Le McDo ne détrônera pas le pot-au-feu,”
La Croix
, 22 October 1996, 7.

123
. Richard Kuisel, “Coca-Cola and the Cold War: The French Face of Americanization, 1948-53,”
French Historical Studies
17 (1991): 96-116; Allen,
Secret Formula
, 1-17.

124
. “La Société Coca-Cola,”
Le Monde
, 30 December 1949, 8.

125
. On Coke's expansion, see David Greising,
I'd Like the World to Buy a Coke: The Life and Leadership of Roberto Goizueta
(New York: Wiley, 1998), 17285; Pendergrast,
For God, Country and Coca-Cola
, 391-92; and Roger Cohen, “For Coke, World Is Its Oyster,”
New York Times
, 21 November 1991, Di, 5. The controversial role of Douglas Ivester is recounted in Constance L. Hays,
The Real Thing: Truth and Power at the Coca-Cola Company
(New York: Random House, 2004). I wish to thank Philip Mooney, head of the CocaCola Company archives, for providing documentation.

126
. For the company's phobia about France, see William Reymond,
Coca-Cola, l'enquête interdite
(Paris: Éditions Flammarion, 2006), 154-56. Reymond writes as a frustrated investigative reporter determined to unmask the secrets and legends of the company.

127
. Thomas Kamm, “France's Pernod-Ricard to Sell to Coke,”
Wall Street Journal
, 26 May 1989, 1.

128
. For Hoffman's marketing, see William Dawkins, “C'est la Guerre for Coke and Pepsi,”
Financial Times
, 18 February 1991, 15; “Coke Makes Monumental Continental Effort,”
Beverage World Periscope Edition
, 31 March 1991, 6; and Greising,
I'd Like the World
, 184-85.

129
. Bruce Crumley, “Bordeaux to Coke: ‘Non' on Machines,”
Fortune
, 30 July 1990, 14.

130
. Jean-Sébastien Stehli, “Coca a soif de conquête,”
Le Point
, 30 May 1992, 39.

131
. Gary Hemphill, “Beachhead at Dunkirk,”
Beverage Industry
, September 1990, i-3.

132
. “European Soft Drinks Up 6 Percent,”
Eurofood
, March 1992.

133
. John Georgas, quoted in “Coke's Never-ending Journey,”
Beverage World
, Fall 1993, 32.

134
. David Buchan, “Orangina Takes Some Fizz out of Coke,”
Financial Times
, 30 January 1997, 2; Charles Fleming and Nikhil Deogun, “French Unit fines Coke $1.8 Million for Sales Practices,”
Wall Street Journal
, 30 January 1997, B12.

135
. “Coca-Cola Unit Fined,” Bloomberg News, 29 January 1997.

136
. Paul Hemp, “French EC Protestors Hope Things Go Better with Coke,”
Boston Globe
, 27 November 1992, 89. A spokesman for the national young farmer's association said “Coca-Cola is the biggest symbol of an America that wants to extend its hegemony more and more”; quoted in “France Admits It Can't Legally Veto Trade Pact,”
Atlanta Constitution
, 24 November 1992, A12.

137
. Rone Tempest, “U.S. Firms in France Try Counterattack,”
Los Angeles Times
, 27 November 1992. A6.