The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (362 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
Ignite torch and, holding flame about 2 inches above sugar, slowly sweep flame over sugar until it bubbles and turns deep golden brown.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Though its name is lyrical, the literal translation of panna cotta, “cooked cream,” does nothing to suggest its ethereal qualities. In fact, panna cotta is not cooked at all. It is a simple, refined dessert where sugar and gelatin are melted in cream and milk, and the mixture is turned into individual ramekins and chilled. While panna cotta is usually found on restaurant menus, we wanted a version for the home cook—one that would guarantee a pudding with the rich flavor of cream and vanilla and a delicate texture. After trying several different recipes, we concluded that we needed a higher proportion of cream to milk to achieve the creamiest flavor and texture. The amount of gelatin proved critical; too much turned the panna cotta rubbery. We used a light hand, adding just enough to make the dessert firm enough to unmold. And because gelatin sets more quickly at cold temperatures, we minimized the amount of heat by softening the gelatin in cold milk, then heating it very briefly until it was melted. To avoid premature hardening, we gradually added cold vanilla-infused cream to the gelatin mixture and stirred everything over an ice bath to incorporate the gelatin.
SERVES 8
A vanilla bean gives the panna cotta the deepest flavor, but 2 teaspoons of vanilla extract can be used instead. If you like, you can omit the Berry Coulis and simply serve the panna cotta with lightly sweetened berries. Though traditionally unmolded, panna cotta may be chilled and served in wine glasses with the sauce on top. If you would like to make the panna cotta a day ahead, reduce the amount of gelatin by ¹⁄
2
teaspoon and chill the filled wine glasses or ramekins for 18 to 24 hours.
1 | cup whole milk |
2³⁄ | teaspoons unflavored gelatin |
3 | cups heavy cream |
1 | vanilla bean |
6 | tablespoons (2²⁄ |
Pinch salt | |
1 | recipe |
1.
Pour milk into medium saucepan; sprinkle surface evenly with gelatin and let stand for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, turn contents of 2 ice cube trays (about 32 cubes) into large bowl; add 4 cups cold water. Place cream in large measuring cup. Cut vanilla bean in half lengthwise. Using tip of paring knife, scrape out seeds. Add vanilla bean and seeds to cream; set aside. Set eight 4-ounce ramekins on rimmed baking sheet.
2.
Heat milk and gelatin mixture over high heat, stirring constantly, until gelatin is dissolved and mixture registers 135 degrees, about 1¹⁄
2
minutes. Off heat, add sugar and salt; stir until dissolved, about 1 minute.
3.
Stirring constantly, slowly pour cream into milk mixture, then transfer to medium bowl and set over bowl of ice water. Stir frequently until slightly thickened and mixture registers 50 degrees, about 10 minutes. Strain mixture through fine-mesh strainer into large liquid measuring cup, then distribute evenly among ramekins. Cover baking sheet with plastic wrap, making sure plastic does touch surface; refrigerate until just set (mixture should wobble when shaken gently), at least 4 or up to 12 hours.
4.
Run paring knife between custard and side of ramekin in 1 smooth stroke. (If shape of ramekin makes this difficult, quickly dip ramekin into hot water bath to loosen custard.) Flip ramekins upside down onto individual serving plates. Shake ramekins gently to unmold panna cotta; lift ramekins from plate and serve with Berry Coulis.
Cut four 2-inch strips lemon zest into thin strips and add to cream along with vanilla bean. Add ¹⁄
4
cup lemon juice (2 lemons) to strained cream mixture before dividing among ramekins.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Rising dramatically above the rim of the pan, the perfect soufflé must have a texture that graduates from a crusty exterior to an airy but substantial outer layer to a rich, soft, not completely set center. For a chocolate soufflé, the chocolate notes should be deep and strong. We began our chocolate soufflé with a béchamel base (a classic French sauce made with equal amounts of butter and flour and whisked with milk over heat) and eggs. But we found that the milk muted the chocolate flavor. We then removed the milk and the flour, separated the eggs (whites were whipped separately), increased the chocolate, and reduced the butter. The base now consisted of egg yolks beaten with sugar until thick, giving the soufflé plenty of volume. The result was intense chocolate flavor. After several more experiments, we discovered that adding two extra egg whites gave the soufflé even more lift and a better texture.
SERVES 6 TO 8
To melt the chocolate using a microwave, heat it at 50 percent power for 2 minutes; stir the chocolate, add the butter, and continue heating until melted, stirring once every additional minute. Soufflé waits for no one so be ready to serve it immediately.
4 | tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup (2¹⁄ |
8 | ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped coarse |
1 | tablespoon orange-flavored liqueur, such as Grand Marnier |
¹⁄ | teaspoon vanilla extract |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
6 | large eggs, separated, plus 2 large whites |
¹⁄ | teaspoon cream of tartar |
1.
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Grease 2-quart soufflé dish with 1 tablespoon softened butter, then coat dish evenly with 1 tablespoon sugar; refrigerate until ready to use.
2.
Melt chocolate and remaining 4 tablespoons butter in medium heatproof bowl set over saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally, until smooth. Stir in liqueur, vanilla, and salt; set aside.
3.
Using stand mixer fitted with paddle, beat egg yolks and remaining ¹⁄
3
cup sugar on medium speed until thick and pale yellow, about 3 minutes. Fold into chocolate mixture.
4.
Using dry, clean bowl and whisk attachment, whip egg whites and cream of tartar on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to medium-high and whip until stiff peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes.
5.
Using rubber spatula, vigorously stir one-quarter of whipped whites into chocolate mixture. Gently fold in remaining whites until just incorporated. Transfer mixture to prepared dish and bake until fragrant, fully risen, and exterior is set but interior is still a bit loose and creamy, about 25 minutes. (Use 2 large spoons to pull open top and peek inside.) Serve immediately.
Add 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water when adding vanilla to chocolate mixture.
Omit 2-quart soufflé dish. Grease eight 8-ounce ramekins with butter and sugar. In step 5, transfer soufflé mixture to ramekins, making sure to completely fill each ramekin and wipe each rim with wet paper towel. Reduce baking time to 16 to 18 minutes.
Omit 2-quart soufflé dish. Grease eight 8-ounce ramekins with butter and sugar. In step 3, bring sugar and 2 tablespoons water to boil in small saucepan, then reduce heat and simmer until sugar dissolves. With mixer running, slowly add sugar syrup to egg yolks and beat until mixture triples in volume, about 3 minutes. Whip egg whites as directed, beating in 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar. Stir and fold into chocolate base as directed. Fill each chilled ramekin almost to rim, wiping each rim clean with wet paper towel. Cover each ramekin tightly with plastic wrap and freeze until firm, at least 3 hours or up to 1 month. (Do not thaw before baking.) To serve, heat oven to 400 degrees and reduce baking time to 16 to 18 minutes.
MAKING VANILLA EXTRACT
Most of vanilla’s flavor compounds are soluble in either water or alcohol, so the most shelf-stable form of vanilla is vanilla extract, produced by soaking vanilla beans in a solution of 65 percent water and at least 35 percent alcohol. We wondered if we could make our own vanilla extract by soaking a split vanilla bean in heated vodka (which would contribute very little of its own flavor). After testing several ratios of vanilla beans to vodka, we arrived at 1 bean per ³⁄
4
cup of vodka as the proportion most closely resembling the potency of our recommended store-bought brand, McCormick Pure Vanilla Extract. We then tested our homemade extract against this supermarket product in sugar cookies, crème brûlée, and vanilla buttercream frosting. In each case, our extract outperformed the commercial version, boasting cleaner, more intense vanilla flavor.
To make vanilla extract, split a fresh bean lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Place the seeds and split pod in a 1-cup sealable container. Add ³⁄
4
cup hot vodka (we used Smirnoff—a premium brand is not necessary) and let the mixture cool to room temperature. Seal the container and store at room temperature for one week, shaking gently every day. Strain the extract, if desired, and store in a cool, dark place. The extract should keep indefinitely.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
We wanted to produce a reliable recipe for a classic soufflé flavored with the citrusy warmth of Grand Marnier. The best soufflés have a crusty top layer above the rim of the dish and a contrasting rich, creamy, almost-fluid center. For the base we began with a bouillie—a paste of flour and milk. Butter kept the egginess at bay, and increasing the usual amount of flour prevented the frothiness we wanted to avoid. An equal number of egg whites and yolks was the right proportion for rise versus richness. Adding a little sugar and some cream of tartar to the whites while we whipped them stabilized the whites so that they would hold their structure. We discovered that most of the sugar must be added gradually and partway through the beating process, not at the beginning, or the soufflé will not rise properly and will taste too sweet. We also found it important to remove the soufflé from the oven while the center was still loose and moist to prevent overcooking.
