The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (257 page)

Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online

Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen

Tags: #Cooking

BOOK: The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook
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YEASTED WAFFLES

MAKES SEVEN 7-INCH ROUND OR FOUR 9-INCH SQUARE WAFFLES

While the waffles can be eaten as soon as they are removed from the waffle iron, they will have a crispier exterior if rested in a warm oven for 10 minutes. (This method also makes it possible to serve everyone at the same time.) This batter must be made 12 to 24 hours in advance. We prefer the texture of the waffles made in a classic waffle iron, but a Belgian waffle iron will work, though it will make fewer waffles.

1³⁄
4

cups milk

8

tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces

2

cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour

1

tablespoon sugar

1¹⁄
2

teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast

1

teaspoon salt

2

large eggs

1

teaspoon vanilla extract

1.
Heat milk and butter in small saucepan over medium-low heat until butter is melted, 3 to 5 minutes. Let mixture cool until warm to touch.

2.
Meanwhile, whisk flour, sugar, yeast, and salt together in large bowl. Gradually whisk warm milk mixture into flour mixture; continue to whisk until batter is smooth. Whisk eggs and vanilla together in small bowl until combined, then add egg mixture to batter and whisk until incorporated. Scrape down bowl with rubber spatula, cover bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 12 or up to 24 hours.

3.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet; place in oven. Heat waffle iron according to manufacturer’s instructions. Remove batter from refrigerator when waffle iron is hot (batter will be foamy and doubled in size). Whisk batter to recombine (batter will deflate). Bake waffles according to manufacturer’s instructions (use about ¹⁄
2
cup for 7-inch round iron and about 1 cup for 9-inch square iron). Transfer waffles to wire rack in preheated oven; repeat with remaining batter. Serve.

BLUEBERRY YEASTED WAFFLES

We found that frozen wild blueberries—which are smaller—work best here. Larger blueberries release too much juice, which burns and becomes bitter when it comes in contact with the waffle iron.

After removing waffle batter from refrigerator in step 3, gently fold 1¹⁄
2
cups frozen blueberries into batter using rubber spatula. Bake waffles as directed.

PERFECT OATMEAL

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

The Scottish and the Irish generally eschew rolled oats for the steel-cut variety, but steel-cut oats can be hard and chewy and take ages to cook. We set out to see which variety of oats, cooked in what way, would make the best bowl of oatmeal by our standards: flavorful and creamy without being mushy. After testing several types of oats, we found that steel-cut were worth the wait; the hot cereal they made was nutty and creamy. We toasted them with butter in a skillet to accent the nutty flavor. Steady simmering in a blend of milk and water over medium-low heat proved the best cooking technique. We also found that constant stirring was unnecessary; we only needed to stir during the last several minutes. Resting the oatmeal for a few minutes before serving helped it to thicken, giving up the creamy yet substantial oatmeal we were looking for.

PERFECT OATMEAL

SERVES 3 TO 4

To double the recipe, use a 12-inch skillet to toast the oats and increase the cooking time to 10 to 15 minutes once the salt has been added. If desired, serve with maple syrup or brown sugar, or one of our toppings for oatmeal (recipes follow).

3

cups water

1

cup whole milk

1

tablespoon unsalted butter

1

cup steel-cut oats

¹⁄
4

teaspoon salt

1.
Bring water and milk to simmer in large saucepan over medium heat. Meanwhile, melt butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add oats and toast, stirring constantly, until golden and fragrant with butterscotch-like aroma, 1¹⁄
2
to 2 minutes.

2.
Stir toasted oats into simmering liquid, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer gently, until mixture thickens and resembles gravy, about 20 minutes. Add salt and stir lightly with spoon handle. Continue simmering, stirring occasionally with wooden spoon handle, until oats absorb almost all liquid and oatmeal is thick and creamy, with a puddinglike consistency, 7 to 10 minutes. Off heat, let sit uncovered for 5 minutes, then serve.

BANANA-RUM TOPPING WITH TOASTED PECANS

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
PERFECT OATMEAL

1

tablespoon butter

1

tablespoon packed brown sugar

¹⁄
4

cup dark rum

1

ripe banana, mashed

¹⁄
4

cup pecans, toasted and chopped

Pinch ground allspice

Heat butter and sugar in 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat until melted and bubbling, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir in rum; return skillet to heat and simmer mixture until reduced and syrupy, about 1 minute. Stir in banana, pecans, and allspice. Serve over individual bowls of hot oatmeal.

CRANBERRY-ORANGE TOPPING WITH CIDER AND BROWN SUGAR

MAKES ABOUT
³⁄
4
CUP, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
PERFECT OATMEAL

Use more or less brown sugar to sweeten the oatmeal to your liking.

³⁄
4

cup dried cranberries

³⁄
4

cup apple cider

¹⁄
8

teaspoon grated orange zest

2–4

tablespoons packed brown sugar

Bring cranberries, cider, and orange zest to simmer in small saucepan over medium-high heat; cook until cranberries are softened and plumped, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle brown sugar over individual bowls of hot oatmeal, top with cranberry mixture, and serve.

HONEYED FIG TOPPING WITH VANILLA AND CINNAMON

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
PERFECT OATMEAL

Both Turkish and Calimyrna figs work well here.

1

cup dried figs, stemmed and quartered

1¹⁄
2

tablespoons honey

1¹⁄
2

tablespoons water

¹⁄
8

teaspoon vanilla extract

¹⁄
8

teaspoon ground cinnamon

Bring all ingredients to simmer in small saucepan over medium-high heat; cook until liquid reduces to glaze, about 4 minutes. Serve over individual bowls of hot oatmeal.

CLASSIC GRANOLA

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

For the best granola, we started with the grains. Thick rolled oats were chewy with a pleasant sweetness. The right proportion of nuts, seeds, and dried fruits—as much as or a little more than the amount of oats—gave us a combination of crunch, chewiness, and sweet and tart tastes in every mouthful. Sweetening with both honey and maple syrup, warmed to make coating the granola easier, made it slightly sweet, slightly clumpy, and perfectly moist. During baking, we made sure to stir every five minutes for even browning, and as soon as it was done we turned it out of the pan to cool, preventing overbrowning and leaving us with perfectly chewy, crisp, and crumbly granola.

CLASSIC GRANOLA

MAKES ABOUT 7 CUPS

Do not substitute instant or quick oats in this recipe.

3

cups old-fashioned rolled oats

1

cup walnuts, chopped coarse

¹⁄
2

cup unsweetened shredded coconut

¹⁄
2

cup slivered almonds

¹⁄
4

cup sesame seeds

¹⁄
4

cup sunflower seeds

¹⁄
3

cup vegetable oil

¹⁄
4

cup maple syrup

¹⁄
4

cup honey

1

cup raisins

1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Combine oats, walnuts, coconut, almonds, sesame seeds, and sunflower seeds in large bowl.

2.
Heat oil, maple syrup, and honey in small saucepan, whisking occasionally, until warm. Pour mixture over dry ingredients. Using spatula, stir until mixture is thoroughly coated. Spread mixture into even layer on rimmed baking sheet.

3.
Bake, stirring mixture and re-spreading into even layer every 5 minutes, until granola is light golden brown, about 15 minutes. Immediately transfer granola to second rimmed baking sheet. Stir in raisins, then spread granola into even layer. Set sheet on wire rack and let cool to room temperature. Loosen dried granola with spatula and transfer to airtight container. (Granola can be stored at room temperature for up to 1 week.)

TOAST AND ROAST GRANOLA

MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS

For clumpy granola, right after you remove the mixture from the oven, press it into a ³⁄
4
-inch layer with even edges, then press a single layer of paper towels onto the surface. When the granola is cool, remove the towels. Remove the cereal in sections and place in an airtight container. When ready to use, crumble the granola to the desired chunkiness. Do not substitute instant or quick oats in this recipe.

¹⁄
2

cup slivered almonds

¹⁄
2

cup cashews, chopped

2

cups old-fashioned rolled oats

²⁄
3

cup unsweetened shredded coconut

¹⁄
4

cup sunflower seeds

2

tablespoons sesame seeds

¹⁄
4

cup honey

¹⁄
2

cup raisins

1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Toast nuts in 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until just beginning to color, about 3 minutes. Stir in oats and coconut; toast until oats color lightly, about 2 minutes. Add sunflower seeds and sesame seeds; toast, stirring constantly, until mixture turns an even beige, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir in honey until mixture is well coated.

2.
Spread mixture into even layer on rimmed baking sheet. Bake, stirring mixture and re-spreading into even layer, every 5 minutes, until granola is light golden brown, about 15 minutes. Immediately transfer granola to second rimmed baking sheet. Stir in raisins, then spread granola into even layer. Set sheet on wire rack and let cool to room temperature. Loosen dried granola with spatula and transfer to airtight container. (Granola can be stored at room temperature for up to 1 week.)

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