Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (225 page)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
This Japanese-American standard is synonymous with chewy, flavorless meat shellacked with saccharine-sweet sauce. We wanted great teriyaki: juicy, charred steak embellished by a well-balanced glaze that would be robust enough to stand up to the beef. For the meat, we decided to use inexpensive steak tips, which became very tender when marinated in a soy sauce–based marinade flavored with scallions, ginger, garlic, and a bit of orange zest. We also found that a few teaspoons of oil in the marinade prevented the meat from sticking to the grill. Slicing the meat into “cutlets” across the grain shortened the muscle fibers so the texture was more tender. For a well-balanced sweet and savory glaze that came together quickly, we added cornstarch to sake, mirin, soy sauce, fresh ginger, and sugar. It took only 15 minutes of cooking to give the sauce a nice syrupy texture.
SERVES 4
If you can’t find sirloin steak tips, sometimes labeled “flap meat,” flank steak is a good alternative. Mirin, a sweet Japanese rice wine, is a key component of teriyaki; it can be found in Asian markets and the international section of most supermarkets. Alternatively, substitute ¹⁄
4
cup vermouth or sake and 2 teaspoons sugar for every ¹⁄
4
cup mirin. Serve with
SIMPLE WHITE RICE
.
STEAK
2 | pounds sirloin steak tips, trimmed |
¹⁄ | cup soy sauce |
¹⁄ | cup mirin |
2 | tablespoons vegetable oil |
3 | garlic cloves, minced |
1 | tablespoon grated fresh ginger |
1 | tablespoon sugar |
1 | teaspoon grated orange zest |
2 | scallions, whites minced and greens sliced thin on bias, separated |
SAUCE
¹⁄ | cup sugar |
¹⁄ | cup sake or vermouth |
¹⁄ | cup mirin |
¹⁄ | cup soy sauce |
1 | teaspoon grated fresh ginger |
1 | teaspoon cornstarch |
1. FOR THE STEAK:
Cut each steak with grain into 2 to 3 even pieces. Holding knife at 45-degree angle to meat, slice each piece against grain into 4 to 5 slices about ¹⁄
2
inch thick.
2.
Combine soy sauce, mirin, oil, garlic, ginger, sugar, orange zest, and scallion whites in bowl. Place marinade and beef in 1-gallon zipper-lock bag and toss to coat; press out as much air as possible and seal bag. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour, flipping bag every 15 minutes.
3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes.
4. FOR THE SAUCE:
Meanwhile, whisk all ingredients together in small saucepan, bring to simmer, and cook over medium-low heat until syrupy and reduced to 1 cup, 12 to 15 minutes. Reserve ³⁄
4
cup sauce for serving.
5. TO COOK:
Clean and oil cooking grate. Remove beef from bag and pat dry with paper towels. Place beef on grill (on hot side if using charcoal) and cook (covered if using gas) until dark brown on both sides, 6 to 8 minutes, flipping halfway through cooking. Brush with 2 tablespoons sauce, flip, and cook for 30 seconds. Brush with remaining 2 tablespoons sauce, flip, and continue to cook for 30 seconds longer.
6.
Transfer meat to serving platter, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with scallion greens and serve, passing reserved sauce separately.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Most beef kebabs are disappointing, with overcooked meat and vegetables that are either raw or mushy. We wanted to develop a foolproof approach to creating meaty kebabs that looked and tasted like the real thing: chunks of beef with a thick, caramelized char on the outside and a juicy, pink interior, all thoroughly seasoned by a marinade and paired with nicely browned, tender-firm vegetables. For the meat, we chose well-marbled steak tips, with their beefy flavor and tender texture. For the marinade, we included salt for moisture, oil for flavor, and sugar for browning. For even more depth, we used tomato paste, a host of seasonings and herbs, and beef broth. We chose three grill favorites for the vegetables: peppers, onions, and zucchini. Grilling the beef kebabs and vegetables on separate skewers over a two-level fire, which has hotter and cooler areas, allowed us to cook the vegetables over a lower temperature while the beef seared over the hotter area.
SERVES 4 TO 6
If you can’t find sirloin steak tips, sometimes labeled “flap meat,” substitute 2¹⁄
2
pounds blade steak; if using, cut each steak in half to remove the gristle. You will need four 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe. If you have long, thin pieces of meat, roll or fold them into approximate 2-inch cubes before skewering.
MARINADE
1 | onion, chopped |
¹⁄ | cup beef broth |
¹⁄ | cup vegetable oil |
3 | tablespoons tomato paste |
6 | garlic cloves, chopped |
2 | tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary |
2 | teaspoons grated lemon zest |
2 | teaspoons salt |
1¹⁄ | teaspoons sugar |
³⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
BEEF AND VEGETABLES
2 | pounds sirloin steak tips, trimmed and cut into 2-inch chunks |
1 | large zucchini or summer squash, halved lengthwise and sliced 1 inch thick |
1 | large red or green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1¹⁄ |
1 | large red or sweet onion, peeled, halved lengthwise, each half cut into 4 wedges and each wedge cut crosswise into thirds |
1. FOR THE MARINADE:
Process all ingredients in blender until smooth, about 45 seconds. Transfer ³⁄
4
cup marinade to large bowl and set aside.
2. FOR THE BEEF AND VEGETABLES:
Place remaining marinade and beef in 1-gallon zipper-lock bag and toss to coat; press out as much air as possible and seal bag. Refrigerate for at least 1 to 2 hours, flipping bag every 30 minutes.
3.
Add zucchini, bell pepper, and onion to bowl with reserved marinade and toss to coat. Cover and let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes.
4.
Remove beef from bag and pat dry with paper towels. Thread beef tightly onto two 12-inch metal skewers. Thread vegetables onto two 12-inch metal skewers, in alternating pattern of zucchini, bell pepper, and onion.
5A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over center of grill, leaving 2-inch gap between grill wall and charcoal. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
5B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn other burner(s) to medium-low.
6.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Place vegetable skewers on grill (near edge of coals if using charcoal) and cook (covered if using gas), turning skewers every 4 to 5 minutes, until tender and lightly charred, 17 to 21 minutes. Transfer skewers to serving platter and tent loosely with aluminum foil.
7.
While vegetables are cooking, place meat skewers on grill (in center if using charcoal or over hotter part of grill if using gas) and cook (covered if using gas), turning kebabs every 3 to 4 minutes, until well browned and beef registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare) or 130 to 135 degrees (for medium), 12 to 16 minutes. Transfer meat skewers to platter with vegetable skewers, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
Substitute 20 cilantro sprigs, 2 teaspoons sweet paprika, 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons ground cumin, and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon cayenne pepper for lemon zest and rosemary.
Substitute ¹⁄
2
cup packed fresh basil leaves, 3 tablespoons red curry paste, 2 teaspoons lime zest, and 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger for lemon zest and rosemary.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Steak tips have long been the darling of all-you-can-eat restaurant chains where quantity takes precedence over quality. Sometimes they are mushy, but usually they’re tough and dry. We wanted steak tips with deep flavor and tender texture. For the meat, we chose sirloin steak tips, also known as flap meat, an affordable cut of meat that stayed tender and moist during a brief stint on the grill. To further tenderize and flavor the meat, we use a soy sauce–based marinade Grilling the tips over a two-level fire, which has hotter and cooler areas, helped us to cook this often unevenly shaped cut evenly.
See “CUTTING SIRLOIN STEAK TIPS” illustrations that follow recipe.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Sirloin steak tips are sometimes labeled “flap meat.” A two-level fire allows you to brown the steak over the hot side of the grill, then move it to the cooler side if it is not yet cooked through. If your steak is thin, however, you may not need to use the cooler side of the grill. Serve lime wedges with the Southwestern-marinated tips, orange wedges with the tips marinated in garlic, ginger, and soy sauce, and lemon wedges with the garlic-herb marinade.
1 | recipe marinade (recipes follow) |
2 | pounds sirloin steak tips, trimmed |
Lime, orange, or lemon wedges |
1.
Combine marinade and beef in 1-gallon zipper-lock bag and toss to coat; press out as much air as possible and seal bag. Refrigerate for 1 hour, flipping bag halfway through marinating.
2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour two-thirds evenly over grill, then pour remaining coals over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes.
3.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Remove beef from bag and pat dry with paper towels. Place steak tips on grill (on hotter side if using charcoal) and cook (covered if using gas) until well browned on first side, about 4 minutes. Flip steak tips and continue to cook (covered if using gas) until meat registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare) or 130 to 135 degrees (for medium), 6 to 10 minutes longer. If exterior of meat is browned but steak is not yet cooked through, move to cooler side of grill (if using charcoal) or turn down burners (if using gas) and continue to cook to desired doneness.
4.
Transfer steak tips to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Slice steak tips very thin on bias and serve with lime, orange, or lemon wedges.
