The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (222 page)

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Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen

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GRILL-ROASTED CORNISH GAME HENS

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Cornish game hens provide crisp skin and delicate meat and are an elegant alternative to chicken, especially when grilling. We found that by butterflying the game hens we could keep all of the skin on one side, which meant it crisped more quickly when placed facing the coals and flames. Butterflying also produced a uniformly thick bird, which promoted even cooking. We needed to secure the legs to the body to keep the skin from tearing, so we developed a special skewering procedure that stabilized the legs, which also made it easier to fit the birds on the cooking grate. A spice rub gave the hens a sweet and savory complexity and helped crisp the skin even further. Our glaze of ketchup, brown sugar, and soy sauce provided the crowning touch.

See “BUTTERFLYING AND SKEWERING GAME HENS” illustrations that follow recipe.

GRILL-ROASTED CORNISH GAME HENS

SERVES 4

To add smoke flavor to the hens, use the optional wood chips; however, when using a charcoal grill, we prefer wood chunks to wood chips whenever possible; substitute 4 medium wood chunks, soaked in water for 1 hour, for the wood chip packets. You will need four 8- to 10-inch flat metal skewers for this recipe.

¹⁄
2

cup salt

4

(1¹⁄
4
- to 1¹⁄
2
-pound) whole Cornish game hens

2

tablespoons packed brown sugar

1

tablespoon paprika

2

teaspoons garlic powder

2

teaspoons chili powder

1

teaspoon ground black pepper

1

teaspoon ground coriander

¹⁄
8

teaspoon cayenne pepper

4

cups wood chips, soaked in water for 15 minutes and drained (optional)

1

(16 by 12-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan

1

recipe glaze (recipes follow)

1. TO BUTTERFLY GAME HENS:
Use kitchen shears to cut along both sides of backbone to remove it. With skin side down, make ¹⁄
4
-inch cut into bone separating breast halves. Lightly press on ribs to flatten hen. Fold wing tips behind bird to secure them.

2.
Dissolve salt in 4 quarts cold water in large container. Submerge hens in brine, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

3.
Combine sugar, paprika, garlic powder, chili powder, pepper, coriander, and cayenne in bowl. Remove hens from brine and pat dry with paper towels.

4. TO SKEWER HENS:
Insert flat metal skewer ¹⁄
2
inch from end of drumstick through skin and meat and out other side. Turn leg so that end of drumstick faces wing, then insert tip of skewer into meaty section of thigh under bone. Press skewer all the way through breast and second thigh. Fold end of drumstick toward wing and insert skewer ¹⁄
2
inch from end. Press skewer so that blunt end rests against bird and stretch skin tight over legs, thighs, and breast halves. Rub hens evenly with spice mixture and refrigerate while preparing grill.

5.
Using 2 large pieces of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap soaked chips, if using, in 2 foil packets and cut several vent holes in tops.

6A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely and place roasting pan in center of grill. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into 2 even piles on either side of roasting pan. Place 1 wood chip packet, if using, on each pile of coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes.

6B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Place wood chip packets, if using, directly on primary burner. Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium. (Adjust burners as needed during cooking to maintain grill temperature around 325 degrees.)

7.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Place hens in center of grill (over roasting pan if using charcoal), skin side down. Cover (position lid vent over birds if using charcoal) and cook until thighs register 160 degrees, 20 to 30 minutes.

8.
Using tongs, move the birds to the hot sides of the grill (if using charcoal; 2 hens per side), keeping them skin side down, or turn all burners to high (if using gas). Cover and continue to cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Brush the birds with half of glaze, flip, and cook for 2 minutes. Brush remaining glaze over hens, flip, and continue to cook until breasts register 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 1 to 3 minutes longer.

9.
Transfer hens to carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Cut hens in half through the breastbone and serve.

BARBECUE GLAZE

MAKES ABOUT
¹⁄
2
CUP, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
GRILL-ROASTED CORNISH GAME HENS

¹⁄
2

cup ketchup

2

tablespoons brown sugar

1

tablespoon soy sauce

1

tablespoon distilled white vinegar

1

tablespoon yellow mustard


1

garlic clove, minced

Combine all ingredients in small saucepan, bring to simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 5 minutes.

ASIAN BARBECUE GLAZE

MAKES ABOUT
¹⁄
2
CUP, ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
GRILL-ROASTED CORNISH GAME HENS

¹⁄
4

cup ketchup

¹⁄
4

cup hoisin sauce

2

tablespoons rice vinegar

1

tablespoon soy sauce

1

tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1

tablespoon grated fresh ginger

Combine all ingredients in small saucepan, bring to simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 5 minutes.

BUTTERFLYING AND SKEWERING GAME HENS

1.
Use kitchen shears to cut through bones on either side of backbone.

2.
With skin side down, make ¹⁄
4
-inch cut into bone separating breast halves.

3.
Lightly press on ribs with fingers to flatten game hen.

4.
With skin facing up, fold wing tips behind bird to secure them. Brine birds.

5.
Insert flat metal skewer ¹⁄
2
inch from end of drumstick through skin and meat and out other side.

6.
Turn leg so that end of drumstick faces wing, then insert tip of skewer into meaty section of thigh under bone.

7.
Press skewer all the way through breast and second thigh. Fold end of drumstick toward wing and insert skewer ¹⁄
2
inch from end.

8.
Press skewer so that blunt end rests against bird and stretch skin tight over legs, thighs, and breast halves.

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