completely inside my body.
6
"Breakwaters are the greatest mystery in engineering," Alberto
Lamiel exaggerated, spreading his arms wide. "Yes, Uncle Ricardo,
science and technology have solved all the mysteries of the universe
except this one. Didn't anybody ever tell you that?"
Ever since Uncle Ataulfo introduced me to his nephew, an
engineer who had graduated from MIT and was considered the star
of the Lamiel family, and who called me "uncle" even though I
wasn't, since I was Ataulfo's nephew from a different branch of the
family, I had felt a certain antipathy toward the triumphant young
man: he talked too much, and in an unbearably pontificating tone.
But, evidently, the antipathy wasn't reciprocal, because since our
meeting his attentions toward me had increased, and he displayed
an esteem as effusive as it was incomprehensible. What interest
could an obscure expatriate translator, back in Peru after so many
years and looking at everything with a mixture of nostalgia and
stupefaction, hold for this brilliant, successful young man who was
putting up buildings everywhere in the expansive Lima of the
1980s? I don't know what it was, but Alberto spent a good deal of
time with me. He took me to see the new neighborhoods—Las
Casuarinas, La Planicie, Chacarilla, La Rinconada, Villa—and the
vacation developments springing up like mushrooms on the
southern beaches, and he showed me houses surrounded by parks,
with lakes and pools, that looked like something in a Hollywood
movie. Once, when he heard me say that one of the things I had
envied most about my Miraflores friends when I was a boy was that
many of them were members of Regatas—I'd had to sneak into the
club or swim there from the neighboring beach of Pescadores—he
invited me to have lunch at the old Chorrillos institution. Just as he
had said, the club's facilities were now very modern, with tennis and
jai alai courts, Olympic-size warm-water pools, and two new beaches
reclaimed from the ocean thanks to two long breakwaters. It was
also true that the Alfresco Restaurant at Regatas prepared a dish of
rice and shellfish that was marvelous served with cold beer. The
view on this gray, cloudy November afternoon in a winter that
refused to leave, with the ghostly cliffs of Barranco and Miraflores
half hidden by the fog, stirred up many images from the depths of
my memory. What he had just said about breakwaters pulled me
away from the idle thoughts that preoccupied me.
"Are you serious?" I asked, my curiosity piqued. "The truth is, I
don't believe it, Alberto."
"I didn't believe it either, Uncle Ricardo. But I swear to you it's
so."
He was a tall, gringo-looking, athletic boy—he came to Regatas to
play racketball and jai alai every morning at six—who wore his dark
hair cut very close to the scalp, and breathed self-sufficiency and
optimism. He mixed English words into his sentences. He had a
fiancee in Boston, whom he was going to marry in a few months, as
soon as she completed her degree in chemical engineering. He had
turned down several job offers in the United States after graduating
with honors from MIT in order to come back to Peru to "serve his
country," because if all the privileged Peruvians went abroad, "who'd
put their shoulders to the wheel and move our country forward?"
His fine patriotic sentiments made me feel guilty, but he didn't
realize it. Alberto Lamiel was the only person in his social circle who
displayed so much confidence in the future of Peru. During those
final months of Fernando Belaunde Terry's second government—the
end of 1984—with runaway inflation, the terrorism of Shining Path,
blackouts, kidnappings, and the prospect that APRA, with Alan
Garcia, would win next year's elections, there was a good deal of
uncertainty and pessimism in the middle class. But nothing seemed
to demoralize Alberto. He carried a loaded pistol in his van in case
he was attacked, and always had a smile on his face. The possibility
of Alan Garcia coming to power didn't frighten him. He had attended
a meeting of young entrepreneurs with the Aprista candidate and
thought him "pretty pragmatic, not at all ideological."
"In other words, a breakwater doesn't turn out well or badly for
technical reasons—correct or mistaken calculations, successes or
defects in construction—but because of strange incantations and
white or black magic," I said, teasing him. "Is that what you, an
engineer from MIT, mean to tell me? Witchcraft has come to
Cambridge, Massachusetts?"
"That's exactly right, if you want to put it that way," he said,
enjoying the joke. But he became serious again and declared, with
energetic movements of his head, "A breakwater works or doesn't
work for reasons science can't explain. The subject is so fascinating
that I'm writing a brief report for the journal at my university. You'd
love meeting my source. His name is Arquimedes, and it fits him to
a tee. A character right out of the movies, Uncle Ricardo."
After hearing Alberto's stories, the breakwaters at the Regatas
Union, which we could see from the terrace of the Alfresco, took on
the legendary aura of ancestral monuments, stone buttresses
erected there, cutting through the sea, not only to force it to
withdraw and create an arc of beach for swimmers but as reminders
of an ancient lineage, constructions that were half urban, half
religious, and products of both expert workmanship and knowledge
that was secret, sacred, and mythic rather than practical and
functional. According to my presumptive nephew, to construct a
breakwater, to determine the precise spot where that assemblage of
blocks of stone, superimposed or joined with mortar, should be
built, the smallest technical calculation was not sufficient or even
necessary. What was indispensable was the "eye" of the
practitioner—a kind of wizard, shaman, diviner, like the dowser who
discovers deposits of hidden water beneath the surface of the earth,
or the Chinese master of feng shui who decides the direction in
which a house and its furnishings should be oriented so that future
inhabitants can live in peace and enjoy it or otherwise feel harassed
and pushed toward discord and friction—who detects on a hunch or
by divine knowledge, as old Arquimedes had been doing for half a
century along the coast of Lima, where to construct a breakwater so
the water accepts it and doesn't overturn it, filling it with sand,
undermining it, bending its sides, preventing it from fulfilling its
duty of humbling the sea.
"The surrealists would have loved to hear something like this,
nephew," I said, pointing to the Regatas' breakwaters, over which
white gulls and black ducks were circling, along with a flock of
pelicans with philosophical eyes and beaks like ladles. "The
breakwater, a perfect example of the marvelous quotidian."
"After you explain to me who the surrealists are, Uncle Ricardo,"
said the engineer, calling the waiter and indicating to me in a
peremptory way that he would pay the bill. "I can see, even though
you play the skeptic, that my story about breakwaters has knocked
you out."
Yes, I was very intrigued. Was he speaking in earnest? What
Alberto told me stayed with me from that day on, leaving and
returning to my mind periodically, as if I intuited that if I followed
that faint track, I'd suddenly find myself at a cave filled with
treasure.
I had returned to Lima for a few weeks, rather hurriedly, with the
intention of saying goodbye to and burying Uncle Ataulfo Lamiel,
who had been taken as an emergency case to the American Clinic
with his second heart attack, and subjected to open-heart surgery
with little hope he'd survive the ordeal. But, surprisingly, he did
survive, and in spite of his eighty years and four bypasses, even
seemed to be recuperating well. "Your uncle has more lives than a
cat," said Dr. Castaneda, the Lima cardiologist who performed the
surgery. "The truth is, I didn't think he'd come out of this." Uncle
Ataulfo intervened to say it was my return to Lima that had given
him back his life, not any quacks. He had already been discharged
from the American Clinic and was convalescing at home, cared for
by a full-time nurse and by Anastasia, the maid in her nineties who
had been with him all his life. Aunt Dolores had died a few years
earlier. Though I tried to stay in a hotel, he insisted on my coming to
his small, two-story* house, not far from Olivar de San Isidro, where
he had more than enough room.
Uncle Ataulfo had aged a great deal and was now a frail little man
who shuffled his feet and was as thin as a broomstick. But he
preserved the unrestrained cordiality he'd always had, and he was
still alert and curious, reading three or four newspapers a day with
the help of a philatelist's magnifying glass and listening to the news
every night so he would know how the world we live in was getting
on. Unlike Alberto, Uncle Ataulfo had somber forebodings about the
immediate future. He thought that Shining Path and the Tupac
Amaru Revolutionary Movement would be with us for some time,
and he mistrusted the triumph of APRA in the next elections
predicted by the polls. "It will be the coup de grace for poor Peru,
nephew," he complained.
I had returned to Lima after almost twenty years. I felt like a
complete stranger in a city where there was almost no trace left of
my memories. My aunt Alberta's house had disappeared, and in its
place stood an ugly, four-story building. The same thing had
happened all over Miraflores, where only a handful of the small
houses with gardens from my childhood resisted modernization.
The entire neighborhood had been depersonalized with a profusion
of buildings of various heights and the multiplication of businesses
and aerial forests of neon signs competing with one another in
vulgarity and bad taste. Thanks to Alberto Lamiel, the engineer, I
had seen the neighborhoods out of Arabian Nights where the rich
and well-to-do had moved. They were surrounded by the immense
districts, now euphemistically called "new towns," the refuge of
millions of peasants who came down from the mountains, fleeing
hunger and violence—armed actions and terrorism were
concentrated principally in the region of the central sierra—and
barely getting by in hovels made of straw mats, sticks, tin, rags,
whatever they could find, in settlements that for the most part had
no water, light, sewers, streets, or transportation. This coexistence of
wealth and poverty in Lima made the rich seem richer and the poor
seem poorer. On many afternoons, when I didn't go out with my old
friends from Barrio Alegre or my new nephew, Alberto Lamiel, I
would stay and talk with Uncle Ataulfo, and this topic returned
obsessively to our conversation. It seemed to me that the economic
differences between the very small minority of Peruvians who lived
well and enjoyed the advantages of education, work, and
entertainment, and those who barely survived in poor or wretched
conditions, had been exacerbated in the past two decades. According
to him, this was a false impression, due to the perspective I had
brought from Europe, where the existence of an enormous middle
class diluted and wiped away those contrasts between extremes. But
in Peru, where the middle class was very small, huge contrasts had
always existed. Uncle Ataulfo was dismayed by the violence that was
crushing Permian society. "I always suspected this might happen.
And now it's here, it has happened. It's just as well poor Dolores
didn't live to see it." The kidnappings, the terrorists' bombs, the
destruction of bridges, highways, electrical powerhouses, the
atmosphere of insecurity and vandalism, he lamented, would set
back by many years the country's ascent toward modernity, in which
Uncle Ataulfo had never stopped believing. Until now. "I won't see
the ascent now, nephew. I hope you do."
I never could give him a convincing explanation of why the bad
girl refused to come to Lima with me, because I didn't have one. He
accepted with concealed skepticism the story that she couldn't leave
her job because it was precisely the time of year when the company
had to handle an overwhelming demand from conventions,
conferences, weddings, banquets, and all kinds of celebrations,
which prevented her taking a couple of weeks' vacation. In Paris I
didn't believe her either when she used this excuse for not coming
with me, and I told her so. The bad girl then confessed it wasn't true,
that in reality she didn't want to go to Lima. "And why is that, may I
ask?" I said, trying to tempt her. "Don't you miss Permian food?
Well, I propose a couple of weeks with all the delicacies of our
national cuisine, ceviche of corvina, prawn stew, rice with duck,
cracked ribs, potatoes and eggs with chilies and olives, kid stew, and