The Amazing World of Rice (17 page)

Wehani is an aromatic long-grain brown rice with a dark russet bran, a rich taste, and a chewy texture. Its flavor goes well with wild rice and, conveniently, it cooks in about the same amount of time. Add a stir-fry of shiitakes and scallions to the pilaf, and for an extra-special touch, make Tamari Walnuts and sprinkle on top. Serve with vegetables as part of a vegetarian menu, or with pork, chicken, or beef. This pilaf can also be made with either all Wehani or all wild rice.

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more if needed

½ cup chopped white part of scallions, plus

½ cup thinly sliced scallion greens

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

1 cup uncooked wild rice, rinsed well with warm water

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 cup uncooked Wehani rice

12 ounces shiitakes, stems discarded, caps wiped clean and cut into thin slices (about 3 cups)

2 tablespoons tamari or soy sauce

Tamari Walnuts, optional

• 1.
  Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet over low heat. Add the scallions whites and 1 tablespoon each of the ginger and garlic; cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the wild rice; cook, stirring to coat, about 1 minute.
  
• 2.
  Add 5 cups water and the salt; heat to a boil. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for 15 minutes. Add the Wehani and continue cooking, covered, until the liquid is absorbed and the rices are tender, about 45 minutes. Uncover and cook over medium-high heat to boil off any excess liquid if necessary.
  
• 3.
  Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and 1 teaspoon each garlic and ginger in a large skillet; heat over medium-low heat until sizzling, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms; stir-fry until they turn golden, about 5 minutes. Add more oil if the pan gets dry. Add the soy sauce; stir-fry until it is almost all absorbed, about 1 minute. Add ¼ cup of the scallion greens and remove from the heat.
  
• 4.
  Add the mushrooms to the cooked rice; stir to blend. Add soy sauce to taste. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons scallions greens and the walnuts, if using. Serve at once.
  

Buy the less expensive medium-sized artichokes for this pilaf, since most of the leaves are discarded. Serve with lamb, fish, or chicken, or as a main course for a simple supper.

Juice of 1 lemon, plus 1 tablespoon

4 medium artichokes

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 cup diced (¼-inch) red onion

1 garlic clove, minced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup diced, peeled, seeded tomatoes (use firm canned tomatoes if fresh aren't available)

¼ cup chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1½ cups uncooked Baldo, Arborio, or other medium-grain white rice

3 cups water or reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

2 tablespoons chopped mint

 

• 1.
  Fill a bowl with cold water and add the juice of 1 lemon. Trim the tough outer leaves from each artichoke (reserve for another use or discard). Peel off the tough outer layer of the stem. Quarter the artichoke. Using the tip of a paring knife,
  cut out and discard the center leaves with sharp tips and the fuzzy choke. Place the trimmed artichokes in lemon water as you work.
  
• 2.
  Heat the oil in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet over medium-low heat. Drain the artichokes; pat dry. Add the artichokes and red onion; cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic; cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
  
• 3.
  Add the tomatoes, half of the dill, and the lemon zest; stir until heated through, about 2 minutes. Add the rice; stir to blend. Add the liquid. Taste and add salt if needed. Heat to a boil; stir once. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat until the water is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 25 minutes.
  
• 4.
  Sprinkle the pilaf with the remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, the remaining dill, and the mint. Spoon into a serving dish and serve at once.
  

For this moist pilaf, the rice is cooked in lamb-flavored broth, with bits of the meat flecking the pilaf. Serve with roasted vegetables and a cooked leafy green vegetable.

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 pound bone-in lamb sirloin, fat trimmed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 carrot, halved lengthwise

1 small onion, halved, plus ½ cup chopped onion

1 bay leaf

1 medium tomato, cored and cut into wedges

1½ cups uncooked Baldo, Arborio, or other medium-grain white rice

4 ounces Italian romano beans or regular green beans, trimmed and cut into ½-inch lengths (about 1 cup)

1 garlic clove, minced

¼ cup diced dried apricots

½ cup walnuts, toasted

• 1.
  Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large wide saucepan. Sprinkle the lamb with salt and pepper. Brown the lamb, carrot, and halved onion in the hot oil, turning once, about 10 minutes. Add 8 cups water, the bay leaf, and tomato. Heat to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low; boil gently, uncovered, until the liquid is reduced by half, about 1 hour. Pour the broth through a strainer (there should be about 3½ cups broth). Reserve the solids; set the pan aside.
  
• 2.
  When it is cool enough to handle, dice the lamb; discard the bone and gristle. Remove the tomato skins and dice the flesh, if it hasn't dissolved. Discard the remaining solids. Skim the fat from the surface of the broth. Taste and add salt if needed.
  
• 3.
  Wipe out the pan. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and the chopped onion to the pan; cook over low heat, stirring, until the onion is tender and golden,
  about 10 minutes. Stir in the rice, green beans, garlic, and apricots; cook for 1 minute, stirring to coat the rice.
  
• 4.
  Add the reserved lamb broth, diced lamb, and the tomato. Heat to a boil; stir once. Cook, covered, over low heat until the broth is almost all absorbed and the rice is tender, about 18 minutes. Spoon onto a deep platter or shallow bowl; sprinkle with the walnuts and serve.
  

Chicken thighs instead of chicken breasts guarantee tender, juicy morsels of meat. I prefer golden raisins in this pilaf because they are plumper and a little less sweet than dark ones, although either can be used. (Both are made from Thompson seedless grapes, but they are dehydrated by a difference process.) Or, if preferred, substitute diced dried apricots. With steamed green beans or broccoli, this pilaf is hearty enough to be a main dish.

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, cup into ¼-inch wedges

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 6), cut into ½-inch pieces

1 garlic clove, minced

4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

2 teaspoons Madras-style curry powder

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1½ cups uncooked Baldo, Arborio, or other medium-grain white rice

½ cup golden raisins 1 cinnamon stick

½ cup sliced natural (skin-on) almonds, toasted

• 1.
  Heat the oil in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the onion; cook, stirring, over medium-low heat, until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the chicken and garlic. Sauté until the chicken is no longer pink, about 5 minutes.
  
• 2.
  Meanwhile, heat the chicken broth almost to a boil.
  
• 3.
  Sprinkle the chicken with the curry powder and salt and pepper; cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the rice, raisins, and cinnamon stick until blended. Add the hot chicken broth. Heat to a boil; stir once. Cook, covered, until almost all the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes.
  
• 4.
  Sprinkle the pilaf with the toasted almonds and serve.
  

The broth for this pilaf is made with roasted tomatoes and onions. The roasted juices from the vegetables have a depth of flavor similar to roasted meats. Ideal for vegetarians, served with cooked escarole or broccoli rabe seasoned with browned garlic and hot pepper flakes.

2 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, cored and quartered

1 large onion, cut into ¼-inch wedges

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

One 15-ounce can chickpeas, well drained

4 garlic cloves, bruised with the side of a knife

1 sprig dill, plus 2 tablespoons chopped dill

1 sprig thyme

1 sprig Italian parsley, plus 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1½ cups uncooked Baldo, Arborio, or other medium-grain white rice

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

• 1.
  Preheat the oven to 400°F.
  
• 2.
  Spread the tomatoes and onion in a large roasting pan. Drizzle with the oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 30 minutes, stirring once or twice. Add the chickpeas, garlic, dill, thyme, and parsley sprigs. Roast, stirring once or twice, until the tomatoes begin to brown and the onions are golden, about 25 minutes more. Cover the pan with foil and let cool. The tomato skins will loosen.
  
• 3.
  Pull the skins from the tomatoes, and return the tomatoes to the roasting pan. Add 3 cups water and stir, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Taste the broth; add salt as needed.
  
• 4.
  Transfer the roasted tomatoes and broth to a large wide saucepan; heat to a boil. Cover and cook over low heat for 10 minutes. Remove the herb sprigs and discard. Stir in the rice until blended. Cover and cook over low heat until the liquid is absorbed, 20 to 25 minutes; the rice will be al dente. Let stand off the heat, covered, for 10 minutes, or until the rice is tender.
  
• 5.
  Transfer to a large bowl and sprinkle with the dill, parsley, and lemon juice. Serve at once.
  

Pilaf is the most versatile of dishes, easily adapting to the seasons, like this one inspired by a bounty of late summer vegetables found at my farmers' market. Use red rice from Bhutan if you have it, but brown rice or Wehani rice work as well. Because brown and Wehani rices are covered with a thick layer of bran, they will need a longer cooking time and more liquid: use 2¼ cups liquid for each cup of rice (for the 2 cups of rice, double the broth here) and cook for 45 to 55 minutes.

Stir-fry the vegetables and toss into the pilaf just before serving. Top with salted sunflower seeds.

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

2 cups diced (¼-inch) onions

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 cups uncooked Bhutanese red rice

4½ cups reduced-sodium vegetable or chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

1 cup diced (½-inch) red bell pepper

2 cups cubed (½-inch) zucchini (2 medium)

1 pound firm but ripe plum tomatoes (6 to 8), cored and cut into ½-inch pieces

1 cup corn kernels (from 2 large ears)

½ cup torn basil leaves

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup toasted unsalted sunflower seeds

• 1.
  Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the onion; cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until golden, about 10 minutes. Add two-thirds of the garlic; cook for 1 minute.
  
• 2.
  Add the rice; stir to coat with oil. Add the broth; heat to a boil. Stir once. Cover and cook until the broth is absorbed and the rice is tender, 20 minutes. Uncover and let stand over low heat for 5 minutes, or until the excess moisture has evaporated. Do not stir.
  
• 3.
  Meanwhile, for the vegetables, heat the 2 remaining tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the red bell pepper; cook, stirring, until the edges begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the zucchini; cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes; cook for 1 minute. Add the corn, the remaining garlic, and
  the basil. Cook, tossing, until heated through, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the vegetables onto the pilaf in the pot.
  
• 4.
  Spoon (do not stir) the rice and topping into a shallow bowl. Sprinkle with the sunflower seeds, and serve.