The Amazing World of Rice (13 page)

Plain cooked rice provides a tempting blank canvas for the creative cook. In addition to a variety of rices available, the cook need only have on hand a few basics—a palette of ingredients—from which to choose. It is exciting to see how easily a handful of raisins, a sautéed onion, or a spoonful of spice will transform a pot of plain rice. It all depends on the cook's resources and imagination. Add the following to 3 cups hot cooked rice, and fluff with a fork to blend.

Green Rice

1 cup packed cilantro leaves

¼ cup low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

1 garlic clove

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh ginger, pureed together in a food processer

Carrot and Ginger Rice

1 medium carrot, coarsely shredded

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon Japanese rice vinegar

Toasted Coconut Rice

1 cup dried unsweetened flaked coconut, toasted in a skillet over medium-low heat

Parmesan and Toasted Walnut Rice

½ cup broken walnuts, toasted in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Sesame Rice with Scallions

1 tablespoon brown sesame seeds

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallion greens

Lemon Rice with Peas and Mint

1 cup cooked frozen petite peas or fresh peas

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon finely chopped mint

Crispy Chickpeas and Garlic Rice

1 cup chickpeas, heated in 2 tablespoons olive oil until crispy

1 teaspoon minced garlic, sautéed

Fresh Corn, Butter, and Basil Rice

1 cup corn kernels (from 1 to 2 ears), heated in

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon torn basil leaves

Hazelnut and Mushroom Rice

1 cup chopped white button mushrooms and ½ cup chopped peeled toasted hazelnuts (see box), sautéed in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter until golden

Scrambled Egg and Ham Rice

3 large eggs, beaten

½ cup minced ham, cooked in 1 tablespoon olive oil

R
isotto (
riso
is the Italian word for rice;
risotto
means “big rice”)
is unique in the world of rice dishes. Like no other rice dish the rice in risotto is stirred constantly during the entire cooking time. The friction of the stirring releases the starch and combines with the gradually added hot broth to make a creamy “sauce” that surrounds each tender grain. What is distinctive about risotto is the contrast in textures. When you bite into perfectly cooked risotto, the rice feels creamy until you reach the centers of the grains, where there will be a pleasant resistance. At first you may not recognize when risotto is properly cooked, but with practice, you will.

The rice used to make risotto must be a medium-grain rice with a higher percentage of amylopectin (the sticky starch) than amylose (the dry starch). Three popular varieties of Italian risotto rice are Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, and Arborio. If you examine the raw grains, you see a large oval grain with a clearly visible white core (sometimes called the pearl) surrounded by a translucent border. It is this core that gives the rice its unique texture, or bite. Baldo, another Italian rice, now grown in the United States, as well and other medium-grain rices grown in California make a creamy risotto, but the grains are smaller and the core less distinct.

As in all cooking, choosing the right pot for making risotto is important. Use a shallow 8-or 10-quart heavy-bottomed pot or a deep (about 3 inches) 12-inch heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan. The wide pot allows the rice to spread out and
cook evenly and provides ample room for stirring constantly throughout the cooking process. If you use a tall narrow saucepan, the ingredients will be too crowded, making it difficult to cook—and stir—the rice evenly.

How do you know when risotto is done? The time it takes to cook depends on an assortment of variables, many of which cannot be controlled by the cook. Generally, risotto takes between 20 and 30 minutes (longer at higher altitudes) to cook. But the age (older rice is drier and needs more time; younger rice is moister and cooks a little faster) and the variety (large grains cook more slowly than small) are two important factors. The rice will take slightly longer to cook if you add acidic ingredients such as tomatoes or wine. When I add the first half cup of broth, I set my timer for 15 minutes. When the 15 minutes is up, I begin to taste the risotto every few minutes to check the consistency of the rice as the cooking continues over the next 5 to 10 minutes. Look for a creamy sauce surrounding the grains of rice and rice that is tender on the outside with a very slight resistance when you bite
through the grain. The rice should not be gummy or chalky. You, and the rice, not the clock, are the best judges.

Risotto, like pasta, is a canvas for any number of flavor additions. The basic formula (butter or olive oil, onion, rice, chicken broth, and cheese) is straightforward and simple, but it can become complex with the addition of wine, fish broth, dried mushrooms, meats, and/or vegetables. Stir fresh or thawed frozen peas, crisp-cooked diced vegetables (carrot, zucchini, yellow squash, red bell pepper), sautéed mushrooms, or cooked sausage, meat, or fish into the risotto during the last 5 minutes of cooking. Just before serving, stir in a chunk of butter and cheese to taste. A mild-flavored hard grating cheese like Parmigiano-Reggiano is most often used, but Asiago, Fontina, and even Gruyère are good. Add them sparingly at first and taste before adding more. To preserve their color and fresh flavor, fresh herbs, such as slivered basil, rosemary and thyme leaves, or chopped parsley, are added just before serving.

In Italy, risotto is served as the
primi piatti
, or first course—except for
risotto alla milanese,
which is served as a side dish with osso buco. The American palate, accustomed to a main course of pasta, also enjoys risotto as a main course. One cup of rice makes enough risotto to serve two as a main course or four as a first course.

Serve risotto in warmed shallow soup dishes, mounding it in the center of the bowls. Risotto is always eaten with a fork. Serve extra cheese on the side if you like, but I usually add plenty of cheese during the finishing step.

Called
risotto bianco
, or “white risotto,” this is a classic risotto made with rice, broth, and cheese. Top it with curls of cheese cut from a wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano with a cheese plane or sturdy vegetable peeler. Substitute red wine for the white and beef for the chicken broth.

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

¹
/
₃
cup finely chopped onion

½ cup dry white wine

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

¹
/
₃
cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus

Parmigiano-Reggiano curls

Kosher salt

• 1.
  Heat the broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
  
• 2.
  Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the onion; cook over low heat, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Do not brown. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the wine; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until absorbed.
  
• 3.
  Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth; cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
  
• 4.
  Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the grated cheese; stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
  
• 5.
  Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Top with Parmesan curls and serve at once.
  

In early spring, slender green asparagus and bunches of bright yellow daffodils first appear in the market, announcing the change in the seasons. This risotto is my culinary bridge from the dullness of winter to the anticipation of spring. The rice tinted yellow by the saffron reminds me of daffodils.

¼ teaspoon crushed saffron threads

½ cup dry white wine

12 ounces asparagus, trimmed, stems peeled, and soaked in cold water

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ cup finely diced peeled carrot

¼ cup diced shallots

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

½ teaspoon finely shredded lemon zest

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Kosher salt

• 1.
  Sprinkle the saffron into a small dry skillet; heat over low heat for 30 seconds. Add the wine; heat to a simmer. Remove from the heat, let stand, covered, for 15 minutes.
  
• 2.
  Drain the asparagus. Cut the stalks into ¼-inch diagonal slices up to the tips; leave the tips whole. Set aside.
  
• 3.
  Heat the broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
  
• 4.
  Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the carrot and shallots; cook over low heat, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Do not brown. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and saffron mixture; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the wine is absorbed.
  
• 5.
  Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a
  time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. During the last 5 minutes of cooking, stir in the asparagus, lemon zest, and lemon juice. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
  
• 6.
  Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the cheese. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
  
• 7.
  Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes and serve at once.
  

Roasting vegetables intensifies their flavor. The roasted carrots lend a pretty golden color to this risotto and both the carrots and the leeks add richness and a hint of sweetness.

4 medium carrots, halved lengthwise

2 garlic cloves, bruised with the side of a knife

4 thin lemon slices

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 to 8 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (or half broth and half water)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large leek, trimmed, washed, and cut into ¼-inch dice (about 1 cup)

1½ cups Carnaroli, Vialone Nano, or Arborio rice

½ cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon thyme leaves

• 1.
  Preheat the oven to 400°F.
  
• 2.
  Combine the carrots, lemon slices, garlic, and oil in a 13 × 9-inch baking dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast, stirring occasionally, until the carrots are tender and lightly browned, 45 to 55 minutes. Let cool. Discard the lemons and garlic. Cut the carrots into ¼-inch dice; set aside.
  
• 3.
  Heat the chicken broth to a simmer in a saucepan; keep at a gentle simmer.
  
• 4.
  Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the leek; cook over low heat, stirring, until tender, about 10 minutes. Do not brown. Stir in the rice until coated, about 2 minutes. Add the wine; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until absorbed.
  
• 5.
  Add ½ cup of the hot chicken broth. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until the broth is almost all absorbed. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a
  time, stirring constantly, until the risotto is creamy and the rice is plump and tender with a slight resistance to the bite, 20 to 25 minutes. During the last 5 minutes of cooking, stir in the carrots and lemon zest. (If you run out of broth, finish the risotto with a little boiling water.)
  
• 6.
  Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the cheese. Stir vigorously until the risotto is creamy, about 30 seconds. Taste and add salt if needed. Let stand off the heat for a few minutes before serving.
  
• 7.
  Spoon the risotto into shallow soup dishes. Sprinkle with the thyme. Serve at once.