Simply Organic (29 page)

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Authors: Jesse Ziff Coole

BOOK: Simply Organic
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Cook the penne according to the package directions, adding the beet greens during the last 1 minute of cooking. Drain, reserving ½ cup of the cooking water, and return the pasta to the pot.

Add the beets and onion mixture to the pot with pasta, tossing gently to mix. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

On a large platter, dollop the goat cheese randomly across the surface. Sprinkle with half the grated cheese. Spoon a few tablespoons of the pasta water over the cheeses to warm them and make them saucy. Spoon the pasta on top and serve immediately.

POLENTA
WITH
THREE CHEESES
AND
MARINARA

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

When I was a kid, my Nana made polenta a lot. She frequently served it with a creamy salt cod dish called
baccalà
, but my brothers and I hated it (now I would kill for a bowl of her
baccalà
). So Nana topped the polenta with marinara, mozzarella, provolone, and grated Parmesan. It’s real kids’ food.

1½ cups coarsely ground polenta

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup shredded smoked mozzarella cheese (about 4 ounces)

½ cup shredded provolone cheese (about 4 ounces)

1/3 cup grated Parmesan, Asiago, or Romano cheese (about 1½ ounces)

2 cups pasta sauce, heated

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring 5 cups water to a boil. Gradually add the polenta and salt, stirring constantly. Cook, stirring often, for 30 minutes, or until the polenta thickens and is creamy. Add the mozzarella and provolone, stirring until the cheeses are melted and well blended. Stir in ¼ cup of the Parmesan cheese.

Divide the polenta evenly among 6 shallow bowls. Top with the pasta sauce and sprinkle with the oregano, parsley, and the remaining Parmesan.

KITCHEN TIP

Be sure to watch the polenta and add more water if it seems to dry out too quickly. My grandmother used to cook polenta for hours, adding water when needed. Her polenta was the smoothest and most delicious I have ever eaten. Although we don’t have the time that our grandmothers did to spend in the kitchen, be sure that your polenta is cooked to the consistency of porridge.

CHICKEN-VEGETABLE SOUP
WITH
NOODLES

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

In the winter, the aroma of chicken soup simmering on the stove is as soothing as it gets. I love noodles in my soup, but 1½ cups cooked rice would work just as well for a change of pace.

1 whole chicken (3 to 4 pounds), cut up

2 large onions

3 large carrots, chopped

2 celery ribs, chopped

5 peppercorns

2 large sprigs fresh dill

3 large sprigs fresh Italian parsley

1 parsnip, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

12 ounces wide or thin egg noodles

Put the chicken, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 celery rib, the peppercorns, dill, and parsley in a large stockpot. Cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 4 hours. Cool slightly.

Place a sieve over a large bowl and strain the broth. Set aside the chicken and discard all the remaining solids. Refrigerate the broth for at least 3 hours or overnight, until congealed and the fat has risen to the top.

Meanwhile, remove the chicken from the bones and shred into bite-size pieces. Discard the chicken skin and bones and refrigerate the meat.

When the broth is completely chilled, remove and discard the fat from the top of the broth. Chop the remaining onion, 2 carrots, and celery rib.

In a large stockpot, combine the broth, the chopped vegetables, parsnip, salt, and black pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the noodles according to the package directions.

Add the noodles and chicken to the broth and simmer for 5 minutes, or until heated through.

KITCHEN TIPS

Chicken soup may be prepared many ways. Sometimes I like to keep the noodles separate from the broth, putting the cooked noodles into soup bowls and topping with the broth. If I don’t want to use another pot, I will cook the noodles in the broth. This will thicken and cloud the soup a bit, but it is another delicious way to eat this classic dish.

If I am in a hurry but want some homemade soup, I will use boneless, skinless chicken breasts and prepared chicken broth, and simmer them for about an hour with the seasonings and vegetables.

CHICKEN
WITH
DRIED CHERRIES, CAPERS,
AND
CHILES

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

The combination of the richly sweet cherries, salty capers, and spicy chiles may seem odd at first, but after one bite, you will want to make this often because the flavors are so marvelous. I prefer using chicken breasts on the bone, as they are much juicier. If you are in a crunch for time, however, use boneless ones and reduce the roasting time to 25 minutes.

1 teaspoon paprika

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 bone-in chicken breast halves, skinned

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small red onion, chopped

1½ cups chicken broth

½ cup dried cherries

2 tablespoons capers

2 tablespoons honey

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 cinnamon stick, broken in half

1 to 2 hot chile peppers, such as cayenne, red jalapeño, or habanero, seeded and minced

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

In a small bowl, combine the paprika, salt, and black pepper. Place the chicken in a large, shallow roasting pan. Brush with 1 tablespoon of the oil and sprinkle with the paprika mixture.

Roast for 45 minutes, or until a thermometer inserted in the thickest portion registers 180°F and the juices run clear.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook the onion for 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the broth, cherries, capers, honey, cumin, and cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the cherries are plump and the sauce has thickened. Stir in the chile peppers.

When the chicken is cooked, for extra flavor, if desired, drain off the pan juices and stir them into the cherry sauce. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick before serving.

Place the chicken on a serving platter and top with the sauce.

PORK SHOULDER
WITH
CHIPOTLE-ORANGE BARBECUE SAUCE

MAKES
8
SERVINGS

Organic pork raised on small farms is easier to find these days. Heritage breeds of pig as well as lamb are more available, too. The flavor of these animals, when well raised, can be more distinctive than their confined, mass-produced counterparts. Serve this pork dish with your favorite coleslaw and squares of warm cornbread.

½ cup fresh orange juice

¼ cup honey

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 whole canned chipotle chile pepper, puréed or minced

1 tablespoon vegetable or light olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon salt

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 pork shoulder or butt roast (4 to 5 pounds)

2 tablespoons finely sliced green onions

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

In a small bowl, combine the orange juice, honey, vinegar, mustard, chile pepper, oil, garlic, salt, cumin, and cinnamon.

Put the pork in a roasting pan that can easily be covered and coat the pork completely with the sauce. Cover with a lid or foil.

Reduce oven temperature to 200°F. Roast the pork, without opening the door, for 5 hours. Check to see if it is falling-apart tender, and if not, cover and roast for about 30 minutes longer, or until it is tender. Sprinkle green onions as a garnish.

KITCHEN TIP

This is a great slow-cooker dish. Just put everything in the pot and cook for 24 hours on low.

ZINFANDEL-BRAISED LAMB SHANKS

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

Braised meat is a perfect dish to prepare for dinner guests. These lamb shanks can be cooked hours in advance and kept warm in a low-heat oven. Or, prepare them the day before and reheat before serving; they will be even more flavorful this way. Serve on a bed of warm polenta or mashed potatoes.

4 lamb shanks (about 3 pounds), cut across the bone by your butcher into 3-inch slices

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 bottle (750 ml) hearty Zinfandel

4 carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 large onion, sliced

1 whole head of garlic, cut into thick slices

1 teaspoon whole mustard seeds

5 whole juniper berries (optional)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ cup chopped fresh rosemary

Preheat the oven to 500°F. Put the lamb in a heavy roasting pan and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon of the salt and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper. Roast for 30 minutes, or until browned, turning once.

Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. Add the Zinfandel, carrots, onion, garlic, mustard seeds, and juniper berries, if using. Roast for 2 hours, or until the lamb is very tender and nearly falling off the bone, turning the shanks and basting with the sauce every 20 minutes. Remove the lamb, carrots, and garlic to a large platter. Keep warm.

Strain the sauce through a cheesecloth-lined sieve into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cook for 5 minutes, or until reduced by half. If the sauce seems too thin, lower the heat to medium and reduce it to the desired thickness. Whisk in the butter. Add the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper, or season to taste. Pour the sauce over the meat and carrots and sprinkle with the rosemary.

SAFFRON COUSCOUS

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

In this couscous dish, the aroma of the saffron blends beautifully with the raisins, especially when all three are finished with a drizzle of pan juices from whatever meat you might be cooking for dinner. It goes well with roasted leg of lamb or chicken.

2 cups vegetable or chicken broth

½ cup raisins

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled

2 cups couscous

½ cup pine nuts

4 green onions, thinly sliced

In a medium saucepan over high heat, bring the broth to a boil. Add the raisins, butter, salt, and saffron, stirring until the butter melts. Remove from the heat and stir in the couscous. Cover tightly and set aside for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the pine nuts in a small, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Cook, shaking the skillet often, for 5 minutes, or until lightly browned and toasted.

Fluff the couscous and stir in the pine nuts and green onions.

LENTILS, FENNEL,
AND
OLIVES

MAKES
4
TO
6
SERVINGS

Served warm or at room temperature, this simple lentil dish is delicious as a first course or side dish with lamb or chicken.

2 cups cooked lentils (see Kitchen Tip)

½ cup olive oil

½ small red onion, thinly sliced

1 cup thinly sliced fennel

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

½ cup chopped pitted olives, such as kalamata or another flavorful olive

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