Roumeli (36 page)

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Authors: Patrick Leigh Fermor

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Quennell, Peter,
178

Ragusa,
196

Ravenna,
25
,
238

Rayner, Joan,
76

Retimo,
134
,
145

Rhodes,
56
,
241

Rhodope Mountains,
9–10
,
12
,
18
,
31
,
133
,
239

Rizani,
61

Rodocanaki, Tanty,
184–5

Rome and Romans,
37
,
40
,
104–6
,
110
,
155
,
190–1
,
201–2

Romios
and
Romiosyne
,
106
,
108–10
,
112
,
115
,
118
,
120
,
130
,
132
,
153
,
155–6
;
A History of Romiosyne
,
153

Roussanou (
see
St. Barbara)

Rüm,
105–6
,
238

Rumania and Rumanians,
34
,
78
,
201–2
,
219
,
228
; language,
19
,
32
,
88
,
229
,
246
,
248

Russia and Russians,
64
,
74
,
78
,
95
,
201
,
229
,
231–2
,
234–6
,
248
; cities and rivers,
95
,
230
; language,
64
,
74
,
248
; Russo–Japanese War,
231

St. Agapios,
83

St. Anais,
82

St. Andrew,
190–1

St. Athanasios the Meteorite,
42
,
88–92
; monastery,
88
,
90

St. Barbara or Roussanou (convent),
86
,
93
,
95

St. Barlaam (monastery),
71–2
,
75
,
77
,
79–80
,
82
,
86–8
,
91–3
,
95
,
100–2

St. Basil,
46
,
77
,
84

St. Benedict,
77

St. Bruno,
77

St. Catherine (monastery),
78

St. Charalambos (church),
97

St. Constantine,
41
,
94

St. Daniel the Stylites,
83

St. Demetrios of Thessalonika,
41
,
80–82

St. Dionysius of Karditza,
76

St. Ephraim of Syria,
84

St. George,
40–1
,
49
,
82
,
184
,
231

St. Gideon of Tyrnavos,
76

St. Govdelaas,
82

St. Gregory Nazianzen,
84

St. Hilarion,
240

St. Ioasaph,
90

St. Ivan of Rila (monastery),
78

St. Jerome,
72
,
152

St. John Chrysostom,
84

St. John the Baptist,
42
,
100

St. John the Divine,
84

St. Lazarus,
48
,
51

St. Nectarios,
82

St. Nicholas (monastery),
94–5

St. Nicolas of Metsovo,
84

St. Pacomius,
77

St. Paraskev,
41

St. Procopios,
82

St. Romuald,
77

St. Sophia (mosque),
106
,
110
,
121

St. Spiridion,
175

St. Stephen (monastery and church),
83
,
86
,
96–7
,
99
,
101
,
231

St. Theodore,
41

St. Theophanes,
82

St. Wandrille,
99

Salento,
238

Salonica,
56
,
89
,
196
,
239

Samarina,
202
,
241

Samos,
103
,
240

Samothrace,
242

Santorin,
241

Sappho (poet),
238

Sarakatsáns (nomads),
8–14
,
17–19
,
21–3
,
27–9
,
31–40
,
42–4
,
46
,
50–1
,
54
,
56
,
60–1
,
67–9
,
245–7
;
I Sarakatsáni
,
39–40
,
60

Saraketsi,
245

Saranta Ekklesies (forty churches),
18

Sayiaxis, I. (writer),
246

Sedgwick, Roxani and Shan,
153

Seferis (poet),
132
,
224

Selino,
136

Serbia and Serbes,
10
,
89
,
90–1
,
155
,
201
,
228

Seriphos,
242

Siberia,
231

Sicily,
54
,
238–46

Sikaráyia,
11–13
,
66–7

Sinai, Mount,
78
,
152
,
237

Siphnos,
195
,
242

Skaphiadis, B. (writer),
246

Skopelos,
241

Skyros,
184
,
242

Slavs,
34
,
37
,
99
,
143
,
201–3
; language,
106
,
201–3
,
246
,
250

Smyrna,
68

Solomos (poet),
171
,
214

Sotiriadis, George,
153

Souli,
22
,
67
,
155
,
159
,
179
,
180
,
197
,
240

Souphlí,
13

Soustas, Aramandios,
178

Sparta,
240

Spercheios River,
242

Spetsai,
196

Sphakia,
22
,
136

Sporades,
241

Stagoi (skete),
88
,
100

Stathatos, Peter,
54

Stilo,
238

Strophades,
242

Struma (or Strymon),
54
,
56
,
241

Stylos (mountain),
89

Suleiman the Magnificent,
91

Sunium,
125
,
240

Symplegades,
237

Syra,
197

Syrako (Vlach village),
19
,
245

Syria,
84
,
239

Taenarus, Cape,
242

Tamburlaine,
99
,
135

Tempe, Valley of,
22
,
241

Tenedos,
239

Thasos,
242

Thebes,
162
,
240

Theotokas, George,
107

Thesprotian Mountains,
61
,
66
,
159

Thessaly and Thessalians,
19
,
32
,
37
,
65
,
70–1
,
76–7
,
82
,
90
,
95–7
,
99
,
105
,
133
,
196
,
197
,
202
,
241

Thomaïs (princess),
90

Thrace and Thracians,
7
,
10
,
12
,
16
,
17
,
37
,
54
,
56
,
67
,
133
,
144
,
238

Tinos,
195
,
242

Tivoli,
191

Transfiguration (monastery),
72
,
86
,
89–91
,
97
,
100
,
102

Trebizond,
144
,
230
,
238

Triballes (Serbs),
89

Trikkala,
84
,
88
,
90
,
99
,
240

Tripoli,
240

Troy,
10
,
37
,
99
,
217
,
239

Tsakonia,
196

Turkey and Turks,
7
,
10
,
18
,
21–2
,
25
,
34–5
,
40
,
45
,
50
,
68
,
78
,
84–5
,
89–91
,
97
,
99
,
104–8
,
110
,
113
,
118
,
131
,
134
,
143
,
145
,
147
,
155
,
158
,
162
,
164
,
173
,
179
,
185
,
187
,
190
,
202
,
213
,
245–6
,
248
,
251

Tyrnavos,
76
,
197
,
221
,
240

Tzakonia,
133
,
214
; dialect,
214

Tzoumerka,
22
,
241

Ukraine,
230
,
232

Ürgüb (rock monasteries),
10

Veli Pasha (son of Ali Pasha),
76

Venice and Venetians,
134
,
144
,
147
,
164
,
176
,
197
,
214

Venizelos,
56
,
69
,
78–9
,
138

Vichou (gorge),
65

Vitza,
62
,
65

Vlachoyannis, I. (writer),
246

Vlachs (Koutzovlachs),
9
,
19
,
32–5
,
65
,
67
,
71
,
99
,
201–2
,
245
; Vlach language,
201–2
,
241
,
248

Volo, Gulf of,
5
,
197
,
239

Vonorta,
215
,
219

Wallachia and Wallachians,
32
,
88
,
107

War of Independence,
5
,
19
,
20
,
50
,
68
,
113
,
179
,
181
,
218

Wentworth, Baroness (
née
Blunt),
165–70
,
173
,
178
; Arabian stud,
165–6
,
168–70
; Crabbet Park,
165
,
168
,
171
,
173
,
176
; family of,
165

White Mountains,
135
,
138
,
210
,
238

World Wars I and II,
5
,
140
,
181

Yanina,
21
,
24
,
42
,
62
,
65–6
,
70
,
76
,
82
,
84–5
,
159
,
174
,
180
,
196
,
240

Yanni,
61
,
193

Yassy,
229

Yürüks (nomads),
10

Zagora Mountains,
18
,
62
,
65
,
67
,
133
,
192

Zagorochória,
64
,
66
,
196

Zalacosta,
19

Zalongo,
159
,
240

Zante and Zantiots,
159
,
163
,
174
,
197
,
241

Zitza (monastery),
159
,
162
,
180

THIS IS A NEW YORK REVIEW BOOK

PUBLISHED BY THE NEW YORK REVIEW OF BOOKS

435 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014

www.nyrb.com

Copyright © 1966 by Patrick Leigh Fermor

Introduction copyright © 2006 by Patricia Storace

All rights reserved.

Cover image: Patrick Leigh Fermor

Cover design: Katy Homans

Dedication page drawing and map by John Craxton

First published in Great Britain in 1966 by John Murray, Publishers

The Library of Congress has cataloged the earlier printing as follows:

Fermor, Patrick Leigh.

  Roumeli : travels in northern Greece / Patrick Leigh Fermor ; introduction by Patricia Storace.

p. cm. — (New York Review Books classics)

  Originally published: New York : Harper & Row, 1966.

  ISBN 1-59017-187-x (alk. paper)

  I. Greece—Description and travel. I. Title. II. Series.

  DF727.F4 2006

  914.95'70474—dc22

2005022664

eISBN 978-1-59017-520-0
v1.0

For a complete list of books in the NYRB Classics series, visit
www.nyrb.com
or write to:
Catalog Requests, NYRB, 435 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014

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