Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli (33 page)

kosher delicatessen associations,
93

Kosher Kitty Kelly
(musical),
66
,
67

kosher laws,
47

kosher meat industry and fraud,
49

Kosher Murphy’s Delicatessen (South Gate),
104

kosher sausage companies,
93

kosher-style (non-kosher) delicatessen,
2
,
3
,
52
,
55
; in the entertainment district,
55–68
,
90
,
97
,
108
,
128
,
129
,
148

Kotik, Yeheskl,
22

Kraemer, David,
13

Krainin, Theodore,
47

Kranis, Jack,
95

Krasner, Irving,
95

Kraut, Alan,
118

kreplach (dumplings),
2
,
102
,
145
,
178

Krupp, Herbert,
82

Ku Klux Klan,
54
,
105

Kubek, Tony,101

Kubrick’s Supermarket,
121

Kuh, Patrick,
11

Kuleto, Pat,
79

Kun, Jost,
146

Kurlansky, Mark,
2

Kutsher’s Tribeca (New York),
178

La Kasbah (New York),
156

LaGuardia, Fiorello,
77
,
95–96

Lammers, Wayne,
165

Lappe, Frances Moore,
144

Lawrence, Greg,
116

Lax’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles),
102

Leb’s Delicatessen (Atlanta, Georgia),
105

Lebedeff, Aaron,
22

Lebedin, Charlie,
105

Lebewohl, Abe,
138
,
162

Lebewohl, Jeremy,
162

Lederer, Otto,
67

Lefkowitz, Murray,
83–84

legal definition of a delicatessen,
40–41

Lend Lease Program,
93

Leonard, Eddie,
68

Leonard, Jack E.,
60
,
147

Lev, Carl,
98

Levana (New York),
156

Levant, Oscar,
58

Levenson, Phil,
83

Levenson, Sam,
157

Leventman, Seymour,
128

Levi, Jane,
111

Levine, Harry G.,
70
,
89
,
131

Levine, Hillel,
100

Levi-Strauss, Claude,
12

Levitoff’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles),
104

Levitt, Peter,
175

Levy, Esther,
30

Levy’s Rye Bread,
124–127
,
126

Lewis, Jerry,
147

Lewis, Leonard,
120

Liebman, Rabbi Joshua,
127

“lieux de memoire,”
169

Lindemann, Leo,
63

Lindy’s Delicatessen (New York),
10
,
56
,
58
,
60
,
63
,
69
,
70
,
106

Linny’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles),
102

Little Budapest,
156

Little Tough Guys
(films),
87

liverwurst,
100
,
104
,
118
,
143
,
207n8

Los Angeles, California,
10
,
102–104
,
114
,
172
,
186

Lou G. Siegel’s Restaurant (New York),
88

Love and Death
(film),
149

Lower East Side (New York),
1
,
4
,
7
,
13
,
25–32
; food stores,
33–36
,
37
,40; kosher food companies,
38–40
,
47
,
51
,
54
,
85
,
89
,
115
,
117
,
133
,
136
; return to,
138–139
,
141
,
148
,
151
,
161
,
163
,
164
,
167
,
170
,
171
,
181
,
187

lox,
104
,
105
,
108

Mahoney, Agnes V.,
74

Making Trouble
(documentary),
151

Malcolm X,
125

Mamma Leone’s (New York),
136

Manhattan, New York,
3
,
6
,
13
,
26
,
43
,
58
,
59
,
78
,
80
,
88
,
89
,
96
,
127
,
141
,
155
,
162
,
167
,
168
,
172
,
187

Manischewitz Kosher Food Company,
160
,
168

Manny’s Coffee Shop (Chicago),
101

Manoff, Arnold,
58

Marcus, Jason,
178

Mariani, John,
137

Mark, Jonathan,
157

Marx, Groucho,
53

Marx, Harpo,
10
,
56

Mason, Jackie,
117

Maspeth, Queens (frankfurters),
159

Matt, Susan J.,
33

Matzo ball soup,
xi
,
5
,
61
,
68
,
118
,
139
,
146
,
155
,
164
,
165
,
167
,
172
,
173
,
179
,
180

Maxwell Street (Chicago),
101

May’s Department Store,
115

mayonnaise,
54
,
89–90
,
119
,
149

Mazo’s Delicatessen (Charleston, North Carolina),
104
??????

McGovern, George,
10

meat in ancient Judaism,
4

“meatless Tuesdays,”
95

Memphis, Tennessee,
104

Menashe, Louis,
87

Mencken, H. L.,
26

Mendy’s (Grand Central Terminal, New York),
168

Mercer, Johnny,
103

Miami Beach, Florida,
105–107

Mile End Delicatessen (New York),
172
,
174–177

Miles, Lotta,
53

Miller, Batya,
39

Miller, Bryan,
155

Modern Delicatessen and Lunch (Boston),
101

Mogen Dovid Delicatessen Magazine
,
15
,
46
,
47
,
50
,
77
,
82
,
124

Molod, Fred,
84
,
121

Monica, Corbett,
152

Moore, Deborah Dash,
55
,
81
,
91

Morgenthau, Henry,
10

Moskin, Julia,
172

Mostel, Zero,
2

movie theaters,
59

Mr. Broadway Bar and Grill (New York),
168

Mt. Sinai Kosher Provision Supply,
39

Mueller, George,
112

Multiculturalism and Jewish food,
138

Murray “Boy” Maltin,
103

mustard,
xii
,
5
,
33
,
39
,
46
,
60
,
83
,
85
,
88
,
99
,
103
,
108
,
133
,
149
,
171

My Fair Lady
(musical),
147

My Son, the Celebrity
(album),
147

Nachman, Gerald,
147

Nadir, Moishe,
38

Nanou (New York),
155–156

NASA,
111–112

Nasaw, David,
33

Nate ’n Al’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles),
102
,
103

Nates and Leon’s Delicatessen (Baltimore),
98

Nathan, George Jean,
55–57

Nathan, Joan,
4
,
173

Nathan’s Restaurant (New York),
55
,
97

National Kosher Foods (New York),
39

Neal’s Delicatessen (Carrboro, NC),
172

Nestle Foods,
130

Nevelson, Louise,
137

New York Deli News Delicatessen (Denver, CO),
179

“New York” Jewish Deli, outside New York,
98–110

New York Yankees,
101

Nichols, Anne,
67

Ninth of Av (Tisha B’Av),
4

Noah’s Ark Delicatessen (New York),
167

Nora, Pierre,
169

North Carolina Israelite
,
105

nostalgia for the delicatessen,
169–172

Novick, Sam,
120

Office of Price Administration (OPA),
92
,
94

Oldenburg, Ray,
7

O’Ross, Ed,
153

Orthodox Jews,
2
,
31
,
49
,
51
,
80
,
89
,
125
,
133
,134,
142
; resurgence of,
154–156

Oscherwitz,
38

Overstuffed sandwiches,
55

Ozersky, Josh,
174

Palace Café,
63

Park, Sharon Daloz,
8

Parker, Milton,
165

pastrami,
xi
,
xiii
,
1
,
2
,
3
,
4
,
6
,
11
,
12
,
17
; and contemporary Jewish food,
178–179
; etymology,
20–21
; in film,
149
,
166
,
158
,
167
,
168
,
169
,
170
,
172
,
178
,
179
,
180
,
181
,
183
,
184
,
185
; in literature,
145
; in music,
22
,
28
,
29
,
30
,
37
,
47
,
56
,
60
,
61
,
64
,
69
,
71
,
85
,
87
,
89
,
92
,
97
,
98
,
102
,
103
,
104
,
105
,
107
,
108
,
114
,
116
,
117
,
118
,
129
,
131
,
133
,
135
,
138
,
139
,
140
,
141
,
143

Pastrami King Delicatessen (New York),
87

Pastrami ’n Things Delicatessen (New York),
141

Pastrami Olympics,
139–141
,
140

Pastrami Queen (New York),
185

Peale, Norman Vincent,
127

Pearl’s Chinese Restaurant,
133

Peck, Gregory,
127

People’s Cinema,
87

Pepperidge Farm,
130

Perl’s Delicatessen (Baltimore),
98

Persky, Samuel,
129

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,
xiii
,
24
,
28
,
31
,
184

pickles,
xi
,
2
,
4
,
6
,
12
,
33
,
39
,
68
,
87
,
88
,
101
,
104
,
106
,
108
,
138
,
143
,
146
,
171
,
174

Picon, Molly,
98
,
124
,
139

Pico-Robertson (neighborhood),
104

Pines, Skip,
144

Pizza Hut,
130

Plainview, Long Island,
167

Plotch, Batia Louzon,
156

Poliakoff’s,
88

politics and the delicatessen: in Boston,
100–101
; in New York,
123

Polland, Annie,
9

Popkin, Samuel,
77

popularity of the sandwich,
56

Posit, Michael,
156

“postgastronomic,”
169

Postman, Neil,
131

postwar change in delicatessen foods,
97

potato salad,
71
,
119
,
170

Prada,
137

Pressner’s Delicatessen,
104

Private Izzy Murphy
(film),
66

Protas, Judy,
125

p’tcha
(calf’s-foot jelly),
2
,
185

Public National Kosher Company (New York),
120

pumpernickel bread,
105

Pumpernik’s Delicatessen (Miami Beach),
106
,
107

Puttin’ on the Ritz
(song),
63

Queen Victoria,
64

R. J. Reynolds,
130

Radin’s Delicatessen (Brooklyn),
114

radio advertising,
123–124

Radio City Music Hall,
58

Radner, Gilda,
151

Raichlen, Barbara,
106

Raichlen, Steve,
106

Raphil’s Delicatessen (Miami Beach),
106
,
107

Rascal House (Miami Beach),
107

rationing,
92–95

Ratner’s Dairy Restaurant (New York),
68
,
184