Modernist Cooking Made Easy (26 page)

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L
ECITHIN
A
T A
G
LANCE

Common Names

Soy Lecithin, Texturas Lecite

Basic Ratios By Weight

0.25-1.0% airs and froths

0.3-1.0% stabilized emulsions

Dispersion Temperature

Any

Lecithin is a natural emulsifier and stabilizer which comes from fatty substances found in plant and animal tissues. Many people unknowingly use it everyday because of its presence in egg yolks.

Lecithin’s emulsifying properties are why egg yolks are often used to create emulsions, like mayonnaise and several sauces like Hollandaise. One end of the lecithin molecule binds to water and the other binds to oil, helping to strengthen and stabilize the emulsion.

To keep the strength of the lecithin at a constant, and to remove the flavor of the egg, lecithin is commonly used as a culinary powder. A common source of lecithin powder is soy lecithin, which is derived from soy beans either mechanically or chemically and is a byproduct of soy bean oil creation. The end product is a light brown powder that has low water solubility, meaning it dissolves easily in water.

In modernist cooking lecithin powder can be used to a similar effect to bind vinaigrettes and other stable solutions. Lecithin is also a great stabilizer and is often used in creating “airs” or other long lasting, light foams.

Lecithin is also used in pastries, confections and chocolate to enhance dough elasticity and increase moisture tolerance.

L
ECITHIN
D
ISPERSION

Lecithin can be directly mixed in to the liquid at pretty much any temperature. It should be whisked in or quickly blended, an immersion blender works well.

L
ECITHIN
F
OAMS AND
A
IRS
^[21]

Creating foams and airs with lecithin is a very easy and forgiving process.

Lecithin Foam Process

To create a lecithin foam you first make a flavorful liquid. This is almost always strongly flavored because the resulting foam will lighten the flavor due to the large quantity of air incorporated.

Next, whisk or blend in the lecithin powder. You want the powder to just be dispersed and the foaming kept to a minimum. Most liquids can be kept at this stage for several hours before foaming.

The next step is to foam the liquid by introducing air and creating bubbles through agitation of some kind. Typically this is done using a whisk or immersion blender, but any type of agitator can be used including aquarium pumps, blenders, mixers with a whisk attachment and siphons.

When you are foaming the liquid remember that the goal isn’t to mix or blend the liquid but to incorporate air into it. Because of this, using an immersion blender in a wide container where a quarter of the blender is out of the liquid can be ideal.

Depending on the liquid and the agitation used this will usually take 1 to 5 minutes to fully create the bubbles. You will also have liquid left in the bottom of the container.

Let the foam rest for a minute or two for the less stable bubbles to collapse. You can now use the foam as desired. It can be plated directly onto a dish, frozen to make a cold preparation, dehydrated to make a crisp, or any of a number of other uses.

The foams will usually last about 30 to 60 minutes, though they are constantly, if slowly, losing volume once they are created.

Foam Ratios

The percent of lecithin added is usually between 0.25% to 1% of the weight of the liquid, 0.6% is a good starting point if you are unsure how much to use. Using too much lecithin will actually cause the foam to collapse. The exact amount needed will depend on the specific liquid being used and how watery or oily it is, as well as how many particles are still in it.

C
ITRUS
A
IR

This is a very simple recipe that results in a versatile air. I have used citrus air in several different dishes. It’s great as a topper for straight-up tequila, replacing the ubiquitous lime wedge on the rim of the glass. It can also be used to flavor fish or other foods that pair well with citrus.

It can be frozen for a very light topping that melts and dissolves instantly when placed in the mouth. The frozen air can be used on sliced strawberries or small squares of pound cake with some sweet syrup to counteract the citrus.

Tools Needed

Soy lecithin

Fresh citrus juice

Immersion blender

Flat bottomed, wide container

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

200 grams fresh lime juice

100 grams fresh lemon juice

50 grams water

2.1 grams soy lecithin, 0.6%

Combine all of the ingredients well in a wide, flat bottomed container.

When ready to serve, blend the citrus mixture using an immersion blender until a nice head of foam develops. Let the citrus air sit for 1 minute to stabilize before spooning out to serve.

P
OBLANO
A
IR

This recipe shows you how you can create flavored liquids that you can then easily foam. I use poblano peppers to make a spicy air that is great in Mexican inspired dishes.

You can roast the poblano peppers for additional flavor if you desire.

Tools Needed

Soy lecithin

Immersion blender

Chinois or fine strainer

Flat bottomed, wide container

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

400 grams water

2 poblano peppers, roughly chopped

2.1 grams soy lecithin, 0.6%

Place the water and poblano peppers in a pot and bring to a boil. Blend with the immersion blender until combined. Remove from the heat and let steep 10 minutes.

Add the lecithin to the pot and blend with the immersion blender until it is combined. Strain the mixture through a chinois and into in a wide, flat bottomed container.

When ready to serve, blend the poblano mixture using an immersion blender until a nice head of foam develops. Let the poblano air sit for 1 minute to stabilize before spooning out to serve.

L
ECITHIN
E
MULSIONS

Creating and stabilizing emulsions is the other common use of lecithin. Egg yolks are used in many sauces and dressings because the lecithin in them holds the sauce together. Both mayonnaise and aioli are built on this idea.

However, sometimes you want the binding properties of egg yolks without adding the flavor of the egg itself. Sometime you are serving it to individuals with weak immune systems or who are vegan so you would prefer not to use raw eggs. This is when lecithin powder is a great substitute.

Lecithin powder will bind and slightly thicken the emulsion, helping it to hold longer before breaking and usually adding a subtle creamy texture to it.

Emulsifying Process

To stabilize an emulsion, weigh the liquid you want to stabilize then measure the appropriate amount of lecithin. Sprinkle the lecithin on the liquid and whisk or blend to combine. The lecithin should start binding right away, stabilizing the emulsion.

Emulsion Ratios

For an emulsion lecithin will usually be added as 0.5% to 1% of the liquid by weight. To help strengthen the emulsion you can also add some xanthan gum at a 0.1% to 0.4% ratio, which has the sometimes desired benefit of slightly thickening it.

E
GGLESS
C
AESAR
S
ALAD
D
RESSING

Caesar salad dressing is a classic, creamy dressing that holds together well because of the lecithin in the egg yolk. However, many people don’t like using raw eggs in their cooking. Adding some lecithin powder helps the emulsion stay together and makes the egg yolk completely optional.

I’ve provided my recipe for eggless Caesar dressing but you can use any recipe that you like, then add about 0.6% lecithin by weight for stabilization.

I’ve also given a recommendation for xanthan gum if you would like to create a thicker dressing. With the xanthan gum I would start at the low end, blend it in and check the thickness. You don’t want to over-thicken the dressing or the mouthfeel will be very poor.

The recipe makes about 1 cup of dressing.

Tools Needed

Soy lecithin

Xanthan gum, optional

Blender or food processor

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

4 anchovy filets

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

3 cloves garlic, diced

45 grams fresh lemon juice, about 3 tablespoons

45 grams grated parmesan cheese

15 grams water, about 1 tablespoon

110 grams olive oil, about ½ cup

1.1 grams soy lecithin powder, about 0.6%

Salt and pepper

0.18-0.72 grams xanthan gum, 0.1-0.4%, optional

Place all of the ingredients in a food processor or blender and process well until combined.

The dressing should hold together for a decent amount of time but it will still begin to break. I’ve found that giving it a good whisking right before serving can bring it back together nicely. If you thickened it with xanthan gum it will hold together even longer.

M
APLE
V
INAIGRETTE