Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 (70 page)

Boeuf aux Olives

[Beef Stew with Olives and Potatoes]

Olives give a very Mediterranean touch and subtle flavor to anything they cook with, and potatoes make the stew practically a one-dish meal. Any of the three preceding garnishes—peppers, anchovies, or
pistou
—may be included as well, if you wish.

To be added near the end of the braising period, when beef has about ½ hour more to cook (Master Recipe for
boeuf aux oignons
, Step 3
).

1)
Preparing the olives and potatoes

⅓ cup each: small, pitted green olives, and black, Mediterranean-type olives, pitted

1 quart of water in a saucepan

To remove excess salt and too strong a taste, simmer the olives for 10 minutes; drain. If black olives are still too strong for your taste, simmer them separately 10 minutes more. Leave olives whole if small (¾ inch long), quarter lengthwise if larger.

2½ to 3 lbs. “boiling” potatoes all of a size, about 3 inches long

A bowl of cold water

Peel potatoes, halve lengthwise, and trim into the shape of large garlic cloves about 2½ inches long and 1½ inches at their thickest, making 3 or 4 pieces per person. Reserve in cold water.

2)
Adding olives and potatoes to stew

A saucepan of salted water for the potatoes

The
boeuf aux oignons
, braised until almost tender,
Step 3

A round of waxed paper or of aluminum foil

A few minutes before they are to be added to the stew, drain the potatoes and place in a saucepan of cold water; bring rapidly to the boil, and boil 1 minute. Drain. Meanwhile, skim accumulated fat off top of stew, remove from casserole any bones, rind, or other extraneous matter, including herb bouquet, and carefully correct seasoning of cooking liquid. Stir in the olives. Spread the potatoes over the top of the stew, press them down into the cooking liquid, and baste with the liquid. Bring stew again to simmer on top of stove, lay paper or foil over potatoes, cover casserole again, and maintain at simmer for about 30 minutes, or until potatoes are tender, basting them once or twice with the cooking liquid.

3)
Finishing the stew

Optional but attractive: one of the 3 garnishes in the preceding recipes (
pistou
especially)

Beurre manié
if needed: 2 Tb flour blended to a paste with 1½ Tb soft butter

If you wish: a hot, buttered platter

Parsley sprigs or minced fresh parsley

You may find that the cooking liquid is sufficiently degreased and sufficiently thickened so that you can serve the stew as is. Otherwise, set cover askew and drain cooking liquid into a saucepan; skim off fat, and correct seasoning. If liquid is lightly thickened and you are using the
pistou
, which will thicken it a little more, simply blend the
pistou
into the cooking liquid and pour back into the casserole. If liquid is thin, beat in the
beurre manié
, bring to the boil, mix in the
pistou
or other garnish if you are using one, and pour back into casserole. Reheat the stew just before serving, and bring to the table either in its casserole or arranged on a platter and decorated with herbs.

Boeuf au Gingembre

[Beef Stew Flavored with Ginger, Capers, and Herbs]

Ginger gives an especially attractive and unusual flavor to beef, and this dish has rather Chinese overtones of sweet and sour. Because of the special flavors, including vinegar, the usual red wine of the beef stew is omitted in this recipe.

Complete Master Recipe for
boeuf aux oignons
, through
Step 2
, but omit the 2 cups of red wine; substitute 2 more cups stock or bouillon and the following.

⅓ cup pressed-down
pain d’épices
, gingerbread, or ginger-snaps

1½ Tb fresh ginger, grated, or 2 tsp powdered ginger

2 Tb capers

¼ cup wine vinegar

2 Tb fresh tarragon or basil, or 1 tsp dried herbs

2 cups of the bouillon called for in the Master Recipe

An electric blender

Purée the bread or gingersnaps, ginger, capers, vinegar, herbs, and 1 cup of the bouillon in the blender. Pour mixture into casserole of beef, rinse out blender jar with more bouillon, pour into casserole, and proceed with recipe.