Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 (156 page)

Courgettes Gratinées à la Milanaise

[Zucchini Pieces Sautéed, then Baked with Cheese]

This is a convenient ahead-of-time preparation that goes nicely with broiled chicken or fish and with steaks or chops.

2 to 2½ lbs. zucchini prepared as in either of the 2 preceding recipes

A heavily buttered 6- to 8-cup baking and serving dish about 2½ inches deep

½ cup grated Parmesan or Swiss and Parmesan cheese

2 Tb melted butter or olive oil

Prepare the zucchini as directed, but leave it slightly undercooked. Sprinkle baking dish with cheese, and fill with layers of zucchini and cheese, dribbling butter or oil over all. If zucchini is still warm, reheat and brown lightly for several minutes under the broiler; otherwise, reheat to sizzling for about 15 minutes in upper third of a 425-degree oven.

Courgettes Étuvées à la Crème

[Zucchini Simmered in Cream and Tarragon]

The French word
moelleux
can probably best describe the tender, melting, softly fragrant quality of zucchini warmed in butter and shallots and then simmered in cream and tarragon. This lovely dish goes particularly well with roast chicken and veal.

PRELIMINARY NOTE
: Cut the zucchini into any shape you wish. Although the 1-inch pieces used in the preceding recipes are easiest to cook, round slices half an inch thick or lengthwise strips ⅜ inch thick and 2½ to 3 inches long are attractive to serve. Choose for the cooking an 11- to 12-inch no-stick or enameled frying pan, straight-sided chicken fryer, electric skillet, or casserole. If you decide to cut the zucchini into strips, you will have to do the preliminary sauté in several batches.

For 6 people

2 to 2½ lbs.
zucchini blanched whole
as directed

About 4 Tb butter

One of the pans discussed in preceding paragraph

Salt and white pepper

2 Tb minced shallots or scallions

1 tsp fresh minced tarragon or ¼ tsp fragrant dried tarragon; more if needed

About 1 cup
crème fraîche
or heavy cream, more if needed

Cut the blanched zucchini as discussed in preceding paragraph; dry well on paper towels. Over moderate heat, melt enough butter in pan to film it by
¹
⁄
₁₆
inch. When butter foam begins to subside, sauté the zucchini for 2 to 3 minutes, tossing or turning, until it is well warmed through but is not browning.
Season to taste with salt and pepper, sprinkle on the shallots or scallions and tarragon, and pour in the cream. Simmer for about 10 minutes, basting frequently with the cream, until zucchini is tender and cream has reduced enough to enrobe the zucchini pieces.

(*)
AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE
: May be done in advance to this point; set aside uncovered. Reheat to simmer before proceeding.

More cream if needed, and the remaining butter

2 Tb fresh minced parsley plus 1 tsp fresh minced tarragon if available

A hot serving dish

Just before serving, taste carefully for seasoning, adding a little more tarragon as well as salt and pepper if needed. If sauce has reduced too much or if it looks slightly curdled, add 2 to 3 tablespoons more cream; bring to simmer, remove from heat, and baste the zucchini to smooth out the sauce. Add also another tablespoon of butter, basting until it has been absorbed. Arrange on hot dish, sprinkle on the herbs, and serve immediately.

A slightly less fattening variation

Rather than simmering the zucchini in pure cream, you may use a thin cream sauce, such as that in which the sliced potatoes and basil simmer
(
pommes de terre au basilic
)
.

OTHER WAYS OF SERVING BLANCHED SAUTÉED ZUCCHINI
Courgettes Gratinées, Mornay

[Zucchini Gratinéed with Cheese Sauce]

When you want a creamy vegetable dish to go with broiled meats or roast chicken, and one that you can get ready for the oven well ahead of time, prepare
sautéed zucchini with lemon and parsley
as in the Master Recipe. Then turn to the
Broccoli Mornay recipe
; fold the zucchini into the cheese sauce, arrange in a baking dish, and finish it off with cheese and butter in the oven as described for the broccoli.

Courgettes en Persillade, Gratinées

[Zucchini Baked with Garlic, Parsley, and
Béchamel
]

An alternative to the preceding cheese sauce is
zucchini sautéed in olive oil with garlic and parsley
, as in the first variation, then baked in a
béchamel
sauce topped with bread crumbs and butter, following
aubergines en persillade, grainées
. The little hint of garlic here is delicious, and the dish goes nicely with steaks, chops, and roast lamb.

Courgettes en Pistouille

[Zucchini with Tomatoes, Peppers, Garlic, and Basil]

Here sautéed zucchini is simmered in a mixture of cooked onions, peppers, and tomatoes, and given a final
pistou
flavoring of garlic and basil. This goes hot with broiled fish, chicken, roasts, steaks, and chops, and cold on picnics. Follow the
pistouille
recipe
, substituting blanched, sautéed zucchini pieces for eggplant.